Some miscellaneous questions about my Punch-Out cabinet

[MaximRecoil]

1.) The bulbs for the coin slots are blown. Judging from the schematic, it looks like these bulbs get 5v. Where can I get replacements? The service door is an Asahi Seiko model ADD, it appears to be original to the machine.

2.) The fluorescent bulb for the marquee is missing. The fixture itself appears to be original to the machine. I have read that an exact replacement would be a 12" NEC FL10D. Where can I get one? The only references I see to that bulb online are on Japanese sites and one Australian site, and I'd imagine prohibitive shipping costs from either. I'd rather not swap in a standard 120v fixture if it is at all avoidable. 

3.) I need a couple of cam locks for the coin doors, preferably keyed alike. I want the kind that use a tubular key, not the ones that use a regular flat key. The only ones that I can find locally have a brass colored face (it should be chrome) and they use regular flat keys. I'd like to have 3 of them keyed alike actually, and I know that Bob Roberts carries "Lock set keyed alike 641 (1)1 1/8" & (2) 7/8"" but his use the flat keys, plus my third lock for the back door is not 1 1/8", it is actually shorter than the coin door locks, maybe 1/2"? Whatever length is the next size down from 7/8" probably. Maybe someone here knows what lock sizes Nintendo used for their back doors?

That's all I can think of that I need for that machine. It's nice to finally be down to the trivial stuff.

[paigeoliver]

#1. Pull the bulbs they will have numbers on them, coin doors usually use common pinball bulbs, I have two kinds of bulbs at home 555s and 47s and between them I could replace most arcade and pinball bulbs.

2. Why not? No one, I mean no one is going to care if the light fixture is not original.  I would just swap in a cheapo hardware store fixture and be done with it. If it won't run off the 100v going up to the marquee light then just tap into the 120 at the ISO.

3. As for locks, I have always just used the flat key locks, as the games are not going on location so the pricier barrel key locks are not needed. Also, most games I have owned had flat lock keys on the back door and barrel keys on the cash box. Not sure if that was the norm, but I really can't remember seeing any games with barrel locks in the rear.

[MaximRecoil]

#1. Pull the bulbs they will have numbers on them, coin doors usually use common pinball bulbs, I have two kinds of bulbs at home 555s and 47s and between them I could replace most arcade and pinball bulbs.

They only say on them "6.3V 0.15A". They don't have any identification numbers on them.

2. Why not? No one, I mean no one is going to care if the light fixture is not original.

[Ken Layton]

1. If the bulb has a bayonet base it's probably a # 47 or #44 lamp. If the bulb base is wedge style then it's a # 555 or # 159, or #259.

2. Bob Roberts and Arcadeshop sell this oddball lamp (expensive!) and it's special starter. Personally, I yard these phony baloney light fixtures out and throw them into the trash. Then I buy a "normal" under-the-counter light fixture to replace it. Naturally I rewire the light circuit so the light recieves 120 volt power instead of 100 volts. BTW, the original light fixture contains a ballast that was only made to operate on 50 Hz power not 60 Hz as standard in the USA.

3. If you want "ACE" style round key locks you won't find them at a hardware store. You need to go to your local locksmith. Not every locksmith carries these so you should telephone around. They are generally supplied as "keyed different" so the locksmith will probably charge you $10 per lock to key them alike. The coin door locks on this cabinet were 7/8" while the back door was 5/8". Also, ALL Nintendo games standardized the back door lock on a 6510 key number.

[MaximRecoil]

1. If the bulb has a bayonet base it's probably a # 47 or #44 lamp. If the bulb base is wedge style then it's a # 555 or # 159, or #259.

I don't know what you mean by bayonet and wedge style. I have to know the number? They don't sell them by volt and amp rating, i.e. 6.3 volts .15 amps like it says on the bulbs that are in there already? The recepticles for the bulbs are white plastic and they are suspended by a blade on the coin mechanism that the top of the plastic housing slides onto, if that means anything.

Edit: Okay, from looking at the pictures at ArcadeShop, my bulbs are definitely push and twist bayonet style. So their "Box of 10 #44 bulbs 6.3v push & twist" should probably do the trick, huh?

I'm not seeing the Nintendo marquee bulbs listed there, is it something you have to call or email about?

Also, ALL Nintendo games standardized the back door lock on a 6510 key number.

Hah! I knew that back door lock was original. I think I'll keep it and just try to get some of the same style barrel key locks for the front coin doors:

[fredster]

Bob Roberts has those locks. You can also get them on ebay.

[MaximRecoil]

I also wanted to know about the humming coming from the speakers. You don't notice it while playing the game, the sounds are loud and clear, but when it is just sitting there turned on you can hear a constant low hum from the speakers; you can hear it from up to a few feet away. Is this normal or do I need to rebuild the audio amps on the monitors?

[Ken Layton]

The amplifier circuit boards on the monitors need capkits. Also be sure the shielded audio cables are not bundled with ac power cords.

[MaximRecoil]

The amplifier circuit boards on the monitors need capkits. Also be sure the shielded audio cables are not bundled with ac power cords.

I did a cap kit on both of them but it didn't change anything. The thing is though, the kit was from Zanen and it didn't include the transistors. Something I thought was strange is, neither of my amps have a C378 capacitor, and they never did even when new. I did try putting in a spare amp I have that does have the C378 cap but the humming was the same.

I know that the humming is coming from the amps because when I had the JAMMA adaptor in there when I first got the machine, I had to rig up the audio with RCA cables. It hummed then same as it does now with the factory harness but when I had the RCA cables in there, I ran them to the mic jack on my PC's soundcard and listened to the audio through my PC speakers and there wasn't a hint of any humming.

Since I posted the question about the humming I did some searches on RGVAC for "Nintendo hum" and I found a lot of threads about it. Some people claimed it was normal and to just live with it. Others claimed the cap + transistor kit from Bob Roberts fixed their problems while others tried that and it didn't fix it. I wonder if I could just order the transistors, because I have already replaced all the caps. I doubt it will change anything though; I have a feeling that those amps will hum no matter what.

And what about that C378 cap? Why do neither of my amps have a cap there? Was there more than one version of that amp or something?