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ATTN: Woodworkers - How do I make a butt joint perfectly flush?
mccoy178:
You can brad nail from the outside and have a tiny hole. You wouldn't even need to patch it, but if you wanted to, fust a little filler would hide the hole. The key with the brad nailing is to use the glue. I bought a pack of fifty cheap brushes and spread the glue across the seams with them. The blocks on the inside are just added security. I just think the dow rods would be difficult and over the top for this application. I built both boxes in about three hours.
Doughbroz:
20 bucks is a good price for a brad nailer--provided one already has the air compressor to run it.
SirPoonga:
I would, with the tools I have (the poorman's way), lay out the pieces like in the attached pic. The blue box is a flat surface. Use 1x1 strips to connect edges like mccoy. Do the same thing as in the pic. Then sand the joint until smooth.
You might be able to use a corner clamp or a corner of a room to hold the vertical piece in place until screwed.
mccoy178:
Harbor Freight is an excellent source for tools on the cheap. I also bought my air paint can(forgot name), from there for twenty bucks. Awesome junk tools for our purposes.
www.harborfreight.com
dema:
Huh huh. You said butt and flush in the same heading...
Just kidding. Anyway. I did the exact same thing with my panel. What I did was wood glue the surface piece on top of the front piece and once that dried a little bit I then marked out a series of drill points where three-hole L brackets would go (the longer ones). I attached a bunch of brackets from one end to the other which gave it a ton of support. Substituting a piece of wood for the brackets would definitely serve the same purpose, but with a rotating panel I didn't have the clearance to do it that way.
Once they were attached with glue and brackets I applied wood putty to the seam between the two and sanded the top piece down so the edge was rounded over well. I then added the vinyl over it a few weeks later. It turned out really well.
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