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The Monitor FAQ

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menace:
I will post monitor specific info as a come across it but if other members would like to cut and paste specific tidbits about their monitor in here, they are more than welcome (and encouraged ;)).  Please clearly identify the make and model of the monitor to which the info pertains and credit whoever provided the info


Wells Gardner K4600 daughter board information provided by Ken Layton

Fortunately, all versions of the video interface card are interchangeable between the various versions of the 4600 series monitor.

The lower the "P" number the earlier the version the board is. Here are the versions I know of:

P297 has composite negative sync only. There is only one video input connector. Originally installed on 19K4601. Video input (P205) connector pinout:
1 - Video green
2 - Video blue
3 - No connection
4 - Video red
5 - Ground
6 - Composite negative sync

P298 has separate positive sync only. Originally installed on 19K4603 & 19K4653. Video input (P205) connector pinout:
1 - Video red
2 - Video green
3 - Video blue
4 - Ground
5 - Vertical + sync
6 - Horizontal + sync

P302 has composite negative sync only. Originally installed on 19K4602 and 19K4604. Video input (P205) connector pinout:
1 - Video green
2 - Video blue
3 - No connection
4 - Video red
5 - Ground
6 - Composite negative sync

P306 has positive and negative separate sync. Originally installed on 19K4615. Video input (P205) connector pinout:
1 - Video red
2 - Video green
3 - Video blue
4 - Ground
5 - Vertical + sync
6 - Horizontal + sync

P307 has positive sync. Originally installed on 19K4613. Video input (P205) connector pinout:
1 - Video red
2 - Video green
3 - Video blue
4 - Ground
5 - Vertical + sync
6 - Horizontal + sync


Sync  connector (P204) pinout:
1 - Ground
2 - Vertical - sync
3 - Horizontal - sync

P317 has positive and negative separate sync. This is the latest version and has the desirable "horiz. centering" pot mounted at the edge of the board right where you can easily get to it. The "black level" (a.k.a. brightness) is also mounted next to this pot. Originally installed on 19K4625, 19K4626, and 19K4675. Video input (P205) connector pinout:
1 - Video red
2 - Video green
3 - Video blue
4 - Ground
5 - Vertical + sync
6 - Horizontal + sync

Sync connector (P204) pinout:
1 - Ground
2 - Vertical - sync
3 - Horizontal - sync

Edit:

Oh, hold the fort----I just found one of my Wells manuals and found the P302 schematic. Wells-Gardner manual number 69X0942-100 dated 9-80 has the info for this board in it. This is the manual for the 4601, 4602,4603,4604, and 4653.

I think this board was used on Galaxian games originally.

menace:
Wells Gardner K7191 chassis numbers

if there is a P447 then its 19" if there's a P538 then its a 25", if there are no numbers but a brown board with green lettering and a funny looking cylinder attached to the flyback, this is the zenith version of the K7191 (others may be able to add more specific info hint, hint)

The K7191 manual can be found here:  (but this only pertains to the P447 board)http://www.mikesarcade.com/arcade/monitors.html

if you need the schematic for the P538 I can send it to you--it is different and does have a few key different parts than the P447 board

menace:
How to degauss your monitor--by Randy Fromm

------------- Modified by saint -----------------

Randy Fromm has made it clear he does not want any of his copyrighted material reposted on the Net. It's unfortunate because there's lots of good stuff, but please do not post anything from proprietary material (including the Blue book) here.

Sorry....

--- saint

menace:
oops--didn't mean to step on anyones toes there...

Here's how I did it--not as eloquently written.

The monitor can be on or off, but on is preferable so you can see the effect ;D.  Take your degaussing coil (or even a household magnet--not too powerful--don't want to suck the fillings from your neighbour's teeth) and starting in the center of the tube, make a spiral action, progressing farther and farther from the tube, out to about 6 feet (further if you are using a powerful magnet).  If you are using a degaussing coil (from therealbobrobert or elsewhere) it is recommended that you flip the coil so it is laying perpendicular to the tub before shutting it down.  That's it!

With my pc monitor I had to turn it on every 30 minutes or so for a minute or 2 to get the built in degauss coil to clean any artifacts (I had a red blob in the corner that wouldn't go away--much better now)  The reason for the every 30 minutes is that the thermistor that controls the degauss coil needs to cool down before it will restart the coil.  hope this helps!

RetroJames:
Great thread, here is my contribution.  I just read this as I head towards an 8-liners chassis + tv tube = Arcade Monitor project.  It really pays to read the BASIC theory behind the technology you are about to mess with.

http://electronics.howstuffworks.com/tv.htm

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