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The Monitor FAQ
Jomac:
Here is some more Monitor ID information also sent to Bob Roberts , There is a heap of stuff I haven't documented on my website about chassis that are re-badged and sold by various companies , if you get stuck or not sure what chassis goes with what CRT , dont be scared to ask , there are heaps of chassis and CRT's out there that are interchangable .
These are some things I found on Bob Roberts webpage:
If you have a look the chassis ID'd as Kortex , T & E and Kortex KTA-915 and Sharp Image SI 319 , all these 4 chassis are the same they are all Kortex KTA-915's just various batches of the same chassis. Kortex and Sharp Image are the same chassis all manufactured by the SeeJoo Corporation in Korea.
Also note the Sega MC-2000-S , this chassis was never made by SEGA , it is an early Nanao chassis made by a sister company of Nanao called Kaga Denshi The correct model number is KZ-20EN-L this used the standard 12 pin neck board.
They also released a 10 pin version KZ-20ES that was later replaced with a Nanao MS7-20L .
There is another chassis ID'd as Kagi , this is almost correct but is actually one of the very first Kaga Denshi chassis , they also were a standard 12 pin type , the only difference between the 14" and 20" version was the flyback , 14" flyback was MSH-D548 and 20" was MSH-D562 , this chassis was replaced by the later KZ-20EN-L also known as the SEGA MC-2000-S and are interchangeable.
At the same time a korean universal replacement was made and badged as "Orion" , the first revision was an OC-2021 and later the OC-2022 , over 300,000 of these were sold in Australia alone as they were very reliable and only 1/5 of the cost of the Jap monitors ( Kaga / Nanao / Sega )
It's very handy to note that the KZ-20EN / Mc-2000-S will work on any 13 /14 / 19 inch CRT that the neck board fits on , for example Mitsubishi , Toei , AWA , Phillips , Orion , Kaga Denshi and various older CRT's used in cocktails that have the same neck pinout.
The chassis ID'd as Korean AP-0621 and Korean AM-0316 are the same chassis labelled incorrect , it is actually one of the many chassis made by Orion , this model is the Orion A-1 chassis made in Korea.
The Wei-ya 826HR was also sold as a "Glendale" chassis with the same part number , interestingly Wei-ya , Pentranic , Rodotron and Glendale all come form the same factory.
After playing around with monitors full time for the past 21 years there is probably more stored away in my head than I could ever document so dont throw anything out until you ask :)
melmo:
What are the most common game resolutions, (i.e. ega, cga, vga...)
im looking at building a traditional cocktail arcade macine so moitor res will be highly releven to the PCBs (games) that i lll be able to play once the machine is assembled will be restricted by the type of monitor i purchase.
Melmo
Ken Layton:
90% of commercial arcade games use standard res CGA monitors.
DarkKobold:
A picture of a CRT would help this thread - Identify where the yoke is, where to measure for vertical and horizontal impedence, etc. I've been reading on diy XY monitors, and I am wondering what they are talking about, since it doesn't seem like it would take too much time to wind the wires... Also, what is the glass thingy at the end of every monitor?
MonitorGuru:
If you check 8liners.com's chassis page, they have pictures about how to measure impedence and how to identify tubes/etc. However something here would be good too.
Winding wires: First you need to have a supply of fine/pure copper wire. Also it must be sealed with something to prevent shorting (it isn't a bare wire..if it was it would not work). It then must be wrapped exactly within a certain area and at a certain thickness. The length of the wire + the width + the way it's wrapped + the purity of it all affect the impedence, and the resulting affect on the electron beam. No one would ever be able to handwrap it the same twice, let alone match the impedence correctly. You'd have a very strange display with tons of geometric impurities that could never be adjusted out.
It's a nice idea, but it just ain't gonna happen.
The glass thingy at the end of every monitor? You mean the neck of the tube? It's part of the entire tube. The yoke only sits around it.
To paraphrase "Airplane!": "Ever seen a CRT tube nakked?"
Here are 2 links:
http://www.ionpool.net/arcade/tubeswap/tubeswap.html
http://coinop.org/repair/Monitor_TubeSwap.aspx
Specifically this picture:
http://coinop.org/repair/monitor_tubeswap/05_TV_tube.jpg
The tube is thick at the front (1" glass), moderately thick (1/4") on the tapered sides, and extremely thin around the neck (1/16"). The neck houses the heaters, grids and electron guns.