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No table saw? Build a $15 Sawboard for your small budget project!
MikeDeuce:
I was watching one of the vids on the the finewoodworkingnetwork.com and one of the guys made a great modifcation to his... here's a rough sketch:
So yeah, basically the guide piece of wood is shifted over a bit in the earlier steps and you use the bottom piece to clamp down. Would help clear the motor on some of our saws, without having to use more wood or route pits for the clamps.
He also made a 90 degree sawboard which was pretty clever (compared it to a radial arm saw), but I don't think it would help out here too much so I'll not waste space with another drawing :)
Good videos on that site ($ though) for the budding woodworker!
Thanks again DrewKaree, for sharing such a great tip.
MikeDeuce:
Oh heck why not, here's a quick sketch showing how he made a 90 degree/RAS version... might help those of us that can't make square cuts consistently.
The reddish stuff is the wood piece you're cutting, to clarify. The top picture is a birdseye view and the bottom picture is the fron view.
So, of course you have to fasten the two pieces at a perfect 90 degrees in the first place, but after that it could theoretically save even more time because you would only have to make one mark for some cuts.
MYX:
Yeah, that's a great idea. But you would have to really make sure that the 90 was truly a 90 or it would be a tool of destruction.
MikeDeuce:
Agreed, and a great way to test that is listed at the bottom of this page (under Quick Test): http://www.newwoodworker.com/squrmitrgag.html
You could screw in only a single screw in the corner where the two guide pieces overlap, allow the bottom piece of pivot, align it with a square, and clamp the pieces together tightly and test it out... adjust if necessary and then add a few more screws.
NiteWalker:
This is a method I've used a few times: Make the sawboard as described excellently by Drew but make it so the opposite side of the saw board (the base part not the guide rail) extends about 6" out. Then use a router and 1/2" or 3/4" straight bit to trim the base piece by having the router base held against the guide piece just like the c. saw. You're basically replacing the c. saw with the router (but not really in this case as you'll end up with one side for the c. saw and the other for the router). Make sure to mark on the guide which router bit (and router if you have more than one like me, the router freak I am) and size used originally.
Now the way I use it is to first cut *close* to the line (within 1/4"), then flip it over and line the edge of the router side right up with the line and trim the rest away. You could also just make one exclusively for router use and just use a jigsaw to rough cut to the outside of the line and then just do final trimming with the router. I probably use the second method more, but like I said, I'm a router freak. One thing about using saw/router boards is that it's a bit tricky to get beveled angles (like on the front piece of a cp) and when it comes to small parts it's VERY hard to use one of these efficiently. For small pieces I make a template and use a pattern bit on the router. I get the template to exact shape by rough cutting to lines and finish by sanding.
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