Main > Woodworking
No table saw? Build a $15 Sawboard for your small budget project!
tommy:
--- Quote from: DrewKaree on September 26, 2005, 10:39:20 am ---
--- Quote from: M3talhead on September 26, 2005, 10:01:49 am ---'Bout time you started contributing to this community...
Nice tip, BTW.
--- End quote ---
If you weren't hangin' out in EE all the time, you'd see the other stuff ;) ;D
--- End quote ---
He said contributing not contaminating. ;)
DrewKaree:
--- Quote from: babydickonboard on September 27, 2005, 11:37:14 pm ---just made my sawboard/guide, and it works out great! ;D Very simple desighn, and saves so much time compared to clamping a guide down, adjusting, clamping, repeat....... thanks for the post!
--- End quote ---
I must admit to sticking to the "old codger" ways and acknowledging it works while still sticking with my "measure, mark a line, measure again, clamp a guide, measure yet again, cut, measure, curse, curse, curse, curse, measure a new piece, start again" method. This works way easier and gets less frowns when kids are around. ;D
--- Quote from: Setabs on September 30, 2005, 09:48:55 am ---Can we make this a sticky. I think it is a very helpful tip that alot of people w/ no wood working skills and a small budget could use in any project. Thanks Drew
--- End quote ---
THAT is a good suggestion for a thread title. Gonna change it shortly to reflect just that feeling, and you're welcome.
--- Quote from: Pixelhugger on September 30, 2005, 01:57:52 am ---BTW thanks for putting all this together Drew. Your router comment has me thinking....
--- End quote ---
Same to you. Your purdy project isn't gonna be able to utilize this much what with all those curved cuts, but there's a reason you're the thread view king of projects. This'll work best if you've got one of those routers with a "one flat side" base. Someone once said their round base wasn't equal on all sides, but I've never actually measured it, I've just rested on the "I'm pretty sure he's wrong on that point" theory. Throw a string around the shank in your unplugged router and run it around the base to make sure.
DrewKaree:
OK. I'm gonna post these in order of being taken and edit this as I go.
You should have a single wide piece of wood on top of which should be fastened a thinner piece of wood. Your cuts may be a touch wavy, and this is just to neaten up the backside of your guide. This step DOES NOT have to be done, I'm just doing it because I was showing how drastic the misalignment can be and still end up with a serviceable and perfectly fine sawboard, and my example REQUIRES straightening out the back (non-business) end of it.
I'm gonna use my trusty piece of angle iron, but you can use a 2x4 or whatever esle you have lying around, or just cut it to make the backside match up.
I've clamped my angle iron on the "table" of the sawboard and just a tad offset from the factory edge my saw will ride on. This is to take into account for the width of my saw's shoe (base), so this can be eyeballed or measured (if you're REALLY anal ;) ) to give you the distance to keep the angle iron/2x4/whatever away from your factory edge. Just be sure to use something that will be taller than the additional piece of wood your saw will be resting on.
After clamping it into place, keeping the saw base against that "edge", run it down the backside of your sawboard. This'll give your backside a reasonably tidy appearance if you so desire.
DrewKaree:
This is just a shot to demonstrate what I'm talking about above. See the offset of the angle iron from the factory side? All I'm essentially doing is matching the two back edges for beautification purposes. If you've cut your pieces reasonably straight and subscribe to the Stingray "do as little as possible to achieve the desired results" theory, then skip it. Seriously. Don't make this harder on yourself than it needs to be. I promise this will work if the back edges were left the way my original setup was glued/screwed together ;D
DrewKaree:
Here's the money shot ;D
This almost perfectly demonstrates how this will work.
To finish up the sawboard, you will now run the shoe of your saw along the factory edge of your thinner piece to trim your sawboard to the dimension of the tool.
Your sawboard is now perfectly set to create a straight edge when used with that tool. The entire length of the sawboard is now cut to be able to give you a straight edge to use to press your saw base against to keep your saw cut straight, and the offset from the side of the saw base to the blade is now automagically figured out for you.
All that remains to be done when you need to cut a straight edge on your material, such as for a CP, is to mark the line you need. Clamp your sawboard so that the edge you just cut rests on that line. Run your saw along your sawboard. VIOLA! A nice straight cut along your line that only requires you to measure your original line accurately.
Navigation
[0] Message Index
[#] Next page
[*] Previous page
Go to full version