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No table saw? Build a $15 Sawboard for your small budget project!
DaOld Man:
--- Quote ---I think this is only possible if you've built your sawboard incorrectly. One important point of the construction, which is a bit elusive in your posts, is that you have to make a full-length cut with the circular saw against the sawboard's Guide Ripper. If you position the Guide Ripper over the Base in such a way that it's slightly angled and the trim cut doesn't remove material from the entire length of the base, then you might end up with a sawboard that cuts a slight taper! One way to check this is to push the saw along the sawboard and look at it from underneath. The circular saw blade should be tight against the edge of the sawboard over the entire length of the cut.
--- End quote ---
I did make the sawboard correctly, or at least I think I did.
The sawboard did perfectly the first few times I used it, I was truly amazed at how good it did.
Only thing I can think of is that the saw blade got a slight angle in it, maybe the bolt that holds the sawblade straight got loose, or I could have laid the saw down hard and knocked the angle adjustment out. If so, when I used the board, the angled saw blade sliced an angle in the board itself, that would make the board run at an angle, when lining up the bottom (foot?) of the board with two marks.
I dont know what happened, but I will follow drew's advice on my next one and make the foot out of thinner material. The saw blade would have to have a gross angle to it to cut much off a very thin foot.
Zobeid:
I may only be echoing what others have already written, but anyhow here's my experience. . .
I made a sawboard following the original article at the beginning of this thread, but I found it pretty awkward to use. The guide strip is about the same width as my saw's motor housing, so there was no room left to apply clamps without the saw bumping into them. Today I am making a new one with an additional two inches of material on the left, which will be the clamp area.
Mine also was the same length as the one described in the article. The new one I am making a foot longer. Better too long than too short.
When using the sawboard, it may be helpful to clean the foot of your saw and spritz it with silicone spray lubricant. It's a dry lube sort of like clear spray paint -- only slippery. It'll help the saw slide smoothly along. (It's useful stuff to have around.)
When sawing it's important to keep firm control of the saw and keep it flat on the sawboard, and snug up against the guide piece. Otherwise you won't get a straight cut, or you may even damage the sawboard.
I'll try to adapt the old sawboard for use with my jigsaw -- which may or may not work, since the cheapo jigsaw doesn't always cut a straight line even when I move it in a straight line.
ohiojason:
FYI, if you change your saw blade you may need to make a new one of these. Some carbide teeth stick out the side of blades further than others.
I love these guides, I have for my circular saw depending on which blade I use, and I have several for my router depending on what bit I am using.
ChadTower:
--- Quote from: ohiojason on April 15, 2009, 08:57:43 pm ---FYI, if you change your saw blade you may need to make a new one of these. Some carbide teeth stick out the side of blades further than others.
--- End quote ---
You won't have to make a new one. Just run it a couple times along the guide before you use it to cut anything measured. The teeth will trim out the necessary material.
...of course, that's for moving to a wider tooth. If you move to a narrower tooth you will have a little play. How much could that possibly be, though? A 32nd of an inch at the most? If you need that much accuracy you're using the wrong methods with a $10 sawboard.
ohiojason:
--- Quote from: ChadTower on April 16, 2009, 09:22:45 am ---
--- Quote from: ohiojason on April 15, 2009, 08:57:43 pm ---FYI, if you change your saw blade you may need to make a new one of these. Some carbide teeth stick out the side of blades further than others.
--- End quote ---
You won't have to make a new one. Just run it a couple times along the guide before you use it to cut anything measured. The teeth will trim out the necessary material.
...of course, that's for moving to a wider tooth. If you move to a narrower tooth you will have a little play. How much could that possibly be, though? A 32nd of an inch at the most? If you need that much accuracy you're using the wrong methods with a $10 sawboard.
--- End quote ---
I am sorry that I bothered everyone with what I thought was a tip, but was actually something that did not need said. I thought that maybe someone might learn from my mistake but apparently it was to obvious.
I am new here, so thank you Chad for letting me know that post like I just made are irrelevant and should not have been said. I will not make this mistake again.
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