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Author Topic: No table saw? Build a $15 Sawboard for your small budget project!  (Read 113196 times)

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DrewKaree

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No table saw? Build a $15 Sawboard for your small budget project!
« on: September 26, 2005, 01:57:50 am »
I guess it's time to "DO" something around here. :-\

Firstly, for anyone who fears making straight cuts, CAN'T make straight cuts, or would like to know they ARE making straight cuts, you need a sawboard.

What is a sawboard, you ask?  Glad you did, as this is gonna turn into the cheapest way for you to get picture perfect cuts straight as an arrow WITHOUT the need for a table saw.  I've GOT a table saw, and have access to 3 others if need be, and I'd bet the biggest stumbling block for most folks is "I can't do that, I don't have a table saw and I can't cut a straight line if my life depended on it".

I received an 18v cordless saw as a present a while back, and figured I'd make up a sawboard for it to get me started.  These also work great for a router, in case you're wondering how to keep that thing steady.

I'm gonna make 3 different sizes.  A 4' one, 2' one, and 1' one.  That should handle just about anything you need to cut straight.  Every single plan I've EVER seen for these things (and really, you don't need a "plan" to build these) credits this "invention" to http://members.aol.com/woodmiser1/sawbd.htm so I am too. 
« Last Edit: November 13, 2005, 01:11:35 am by DrewKaree »
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Re: From Sawboard to........um.......be continued (Pixelhugger Jr ;D )
« Reply #1 on: September 26, 2005, 02:09:53 am »
Firstly, you'll want to head off to the hardware store to pick up your sawboard materials.  You'll need the following:

1/2"-3/4" sheet goods for your ripping edge.  MDF is preferred, as the factory does an EXCELLENT job of cutting these to be quite useful for this purpose.  DOES NOT matter what thickness you choose, if you want to save some money, go with the thinner stock.  My local hardware store has 2'x4' panels, so I'll be picking up 2 of these to make all 3 sizes of sawboards.  (I've already cut the MDF and didn't think to take pics, so I'll give you the pics of the base I'm gonna cut tomorrow).

For the base, you'll want to use 1/8"-1/2" sheet goods.  This can be WHATEVER you can find - hardboard, MDF, OSB, plywood....just DON'T waste your money buying some birch or oak plywood.  After you've used this for a while, you'll realize it's money foolishly spent.

I've used 3/4" MDF for my ripping guide, and I'll be using 1/2" plywood for the base.  I just like the "substance" it gives.

You do NOT have to be precise with the cuts you are making when reducing your sheet goods to useable pieces to build your sawboard.  You will clean those cuts up afterwards, and that's what makes this such a useful and easy to build piece of equipment.  No matter how inept you think you are, I'm positive you can build one of these.

Some pictures of what we will be doing

*edit*
I had previously said pay no attention to the dimensions.  Scratch that.  For the piece you're going to be using for the bottom of your sawboard (the piece labeled "Sawboard base"), make that piece 14-16".  The excess room is to make sure your saw body can clear the clamps.  Make the top piece (the piece labeled "Guide Ripper") 6-8".
« Last Edit: February 09, 2006, 03:42:29 am by DrewKaree »
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Re: From Sawboard to........um.......be continued (Pixelhugger Jr ;D )
« Reply #2 on: September 26, 2005, 02:19:23 am »
I'll assume you're using the same size sheet goods as I am (2'x4') and if you aren't, you're on your own.  If you can't figure it out, put down the saw and beg your local carpenter to build this for you ;) ;D

You'll want to cut 2 pieces lengthwise.  One should be 6-8" (the Guide Ripper), the other should be 14-16" (the Sawboard Base).  These measurements SHOULD allow clearance of the clamps by the saw body so you don't hit them and eff up your cut.  At this point in time, IT DOES NOT MATTER if your circular saw cuts have more waves than a beauty pageant winner in a parade, we'll remedy that soon enough.

Looking at the second picture above, you'll notice you are going to affix the smaller piece to the larger piece.  That pic says to make it flush on 3 sides...pfft.  Scratch that, just slap it FAIRLY parallel and even-ish on the 3rd side. 

YOU DO WANT THE FACTORY EDGE ON THE INSIDE OF YOUR SAWBOARD!

The wavy edge you sawed should be the one you're using to match up with the outer edge of the base - we'll clean that up later. 

Affix the ripping guide (smaller piece) to the base (larger piece) as directed, and screw/glue the two pieces together.  ALL SCREWS MUST BE SUNK BELOW THE SURFACE SO AS NOT TO SCRATCH ANY FUTURE PROJECTS!  (countersinking is nice, but not vital.  Also, make sure you don't sink the screws TOO deep and you end up with mysterious scratches on something because you've got a screw point sticking up.

The final picture up there shows what it should look like when we're all done.  I'll post pics tomorrow-ish showing you how to get to that point.
« Last Edit: February 09, 2006, 03:46:50 am by DrewKaree »
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Re: From Sawboard to........um.......be continued (Pixelhugger Jr)
« Reply #3 on: September 26, 2005, 02:34:51 am »
The rest of the material left after making your first 2 cuts will be used to make a second sawboard, and out of that second sawboard, I will cut it into a 2' length, and a 1' length.  The rest can be used for whatever you wish.  These 3 sawboards should allow me to make whatever cuts I need to make.

In order to use these, DO NOT think you will be able to hold them in place.  Get yourself 2 clamps (at the very least you should need these during the project you're building a sawboard for).  2 spring clamps should work ok.  Resist the urge to make the ripping guide less than 6" wide.  You'll need that material to give yourself someplace to affix those clamps!  Total cost of 3 sawboards and clamps to hold 'em should come to ~$15-25.  You can't even RENT a table saw for that cheap!

I'll explain how to finish these off along with the pics of how mine looks, as well as how to "neaten up" all the wavy cuts you're about to banish from your projects.  Norm Abrams, eat our shorts! 


« Last Edit: February 09, 2006, 03:51:03 am by DrewKaree »
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Re: From Sawboard to........um.......be continued (Pixelhugger Jr)
« Reply #4 on: September 26, 2005, 10:01:49 am »
'Bout time you started contributing to this community...

Nice tip, BTW.
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DrewKaree

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Re: From Sawboard to........um.......be continued (Pixelhugger Jr)
« Reply #5 on: September 26, 2005, 10:39:20 am »
'Bout time you started contributing to this community...

Nice tip, BTW.

If you weren't hangin' out in EE all the time, you'd see the other stuff ;) ;D
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Re: From Sawboard to........um.......be continued (Pixelhugger Jr)
« Reply #6 on: September 26, 2005, 10:50:52 am »
'Bout time you started contributing to this community...

Nice tip, BTW.

If you weren't hangin' out in EE all the time, you'd see the other stuff ;) ;D

Oh yeah, well your dumb!
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DrewKaree

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Re: From Sawboard to........um.......be continued (Pixelhugger Jr)
« Reply #7 on: September 26, 2005, 11:58:29 am »

Oh yeah, well your dumb!


Nuh-UH!  You are! 

* DrewKaree mutters something about glue, sticking, and bouncing



OK, here's my MDF sheet cut.  2 pieces to be used as rip guides.  Notice the fact that one is wider than the other?  I'm gonna show you the drastic miscalculations that you can get away with, as well as how "off" these things can be and STILL turn out right.

On the first pic, I've labeled the edge I DON'T want to use as my guide so I don't forget and have all my cuts end up all effed up.  Go ahead and laugh.  Just make sure to reply in this thread that it was the right thing to do when you screw it up and think to yourself "so THAT'S why he labeled the side he cut as the scrap side!"

The second pic shows the difference in widths I cut these at.  I did this purposely.  I actually have a big "guide clamp" that I used to cut these, but the reason I tend to often turn to my sawboards is that the clamp, with just the wrong amount of pressure on it, can and will tend to bow the piece or come off the workpiece, plus I have to do a lot more ciphering with the numbers and such, and I don't like taking my shoes off just to add some numbers.  What ends up happening is that I miss that it's not actually ON the workpiece and the shoe of the saw slides under it, making it a nice straight cut leading into a nice big gouge that isn't worth fixing.

For this demonstration I used it because I didn't have to do any measuring, just get kinda close to half.  I'll show the guide clamp in another pic....and I was extra careful to make sure it stayed down while I sawed this panel in half.

p.s. in case you need to know, the lighter area on that MDF is from the reflection in a mirror next to that...didn't realize it was there :-\
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Re: From Sawboard to........um.......be continued (Pixelhugger Jr)
« Reply #8 on: September 26, 2005, 02:10:49 pm »
OK, after losing the entire post I had typed in due to my friggen picture not being web-friendly-ized, I wanna say that having to refresh or hit the back arrow IS sometimes needed for something OTHER than your session timing out >:(

In the picture below, you'll see the usual culprits.  That is the saw that I am making these sawboards for.  For the love of Pete, do yourself a favor.  Make a new sawboard for whatever tool you want to use one for, and then write the name of that tool on the ripping guide part of your sawboard.  No sense in cutting down a larger one to make it work for a smaller tool's baseplate.  I priced out hardboard today in 1/8" - $2 and some change.  1/4" - $3 and some change.  I'm amending my price range above accordingly.  You can make a new sawboard for $5 and some change, plus a bit of your time. 

I prefer to make my sawboards with some "substance" to 'em, so I don't like the thinner materials (I think they flex too much and may warp easily), but to each his own.  Try the thinner stuff, if you like it, great.  If not, you're out a few bucks.  Pack a lunch for work tomorrow and you'll be back to even ;)

You may notice the cleverly disguised guide clamp and ask why I don't just use that instead of going through all this hassle of making a sawboard.  Stop getting ahead of the process.  I'll explain it soon enough if you haven't cheated and read ahead yet. 

That guide clamp is accurate for "eyeballin' use", but not really practical for more than ONE cut ::) and I even question setting it up.  It seemed like a STELLAR tool idea when I bought it long ago, but as you can see by the new look of it, you quickly learn that it's an exercise in frustration to use one of those things as a guide for your saw.  It CAN be done, and I DO use it for that purpose, but this here sawboard is the hot ticket.
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DrewKaree

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Re: From Sawboard to........um.......be continued (Pixelhugger Jr)
« Reply #9 on: September 26, 2005, 02:21:31 pm »
In this pic, you'll see WHY that guide clamp is a pain in the ass ::)

Every time you set that thing up, if you HAVE to be precise, you MUST measure from your cut line over to where you need to set up your guide clamp.  This means measuring your cutline, then adding the measurement of your saw's shoe to that masurement, marking THAT line and clamping the guide down, or trying to "lightly clamp" the guide down and moving it enough for your cut.  You can see how quickly measuring several times EXTRA for each cut can get annoying and the additional chances for error you are introducing into your project, and then multiply it by each cut you have to make.  Not so with the sawboard.  You'll see why when this is done, or perhaps you can already see why. 

Have I mentioned that you align the guide clamp for EVERY cut?  EVERY ONE? :P

Oh, and while I'm thinking of it, here's something to warm your hearts and pockets.  Click here to check out Festool's cutting guide.  Same idea, same method, machined out of metal and a manufacturer's label slapped on it. :o :o :o 
*edit*
They seem to have discontinued these.  The price was in the $300 range, and evidently there seems to be too many folks with more sense than money ;)

Remember, you can build a sawboard for $5.  The saw IS included with Festool's system, but compared to a sawboard, I think you've gotta have more money than sense to buy that setup. 

If you are the owner of more money than sense, I'm willing to offer my services and build you a custom sawboard up to 8' long for half the Festool's price ;)  Remember, it will be CUSTOM!  OOOOOOOOO!  AAAAAAAHHHHHHH!  I'll even fire up the woodburner and customize it with your name, address, or whatever else you want on it too! ;)
« Last Edit: February 09, 2006, 04:01:29 am by DrewKaree »
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Re: From Sawboard to........um.......be continued (Pixelhugger Jr)
« Reply #10 on: September 26, 2005, 02:27:00 pm »
Now I'm making this out of MDF, and for those of you making your cab out of MDF, you should already know (and if not, this is your reminder) that you should be drilling pilot holes for your screws.  For that nice smooth finish, you'll want to countersink your pilot holes and then fill in the indentation with putty, spackle, or whatever (use toothpaste for all I care....your cab will have that minty-fresh flavor! ;D ). 

Whenever you drill a pilot hole, try to match the drill bit to the screw you're using.  Hold the drill bit to the screw (or vice-versa).  The drill bit should be the same thickness as the shank of the screw, but NOT as wide as the threads.  This is a piss-poor picture, but here's a reasonably close idea of what I'm talking about.
« Last Edit: September 26, 2005, 10:28:09 pm by DrewKaree »
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Re: From Sawboard to........um.......be continued (Pixelhugger Jr)
« Reply #11 on: September 26, 2005, 02:29:39 pm »
Use the screw to set the depth of the drill bit if you don't have a stop collar for your drill bits.  Just hold it up to the bit.  In some woods, you want the pilot hole to be a tad longer than the screw itself, in others, just match it up reasonably close.

Like so:
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Re: From Sawboard to........um.......be continued (Pixelhugger Jr)
« Reply #12 on: September 26, 2005, 02:38:42 pm »
Lastly, countersink.  There are several different kinds.  If you only have one drill, you might want to pick up an all-in-one pilot/countersink/screw combination.  These will have a holder that you chuck into your drill, pull on a collar (like an air hose fitting) and insert the combination "bit" with whatever side you need, the pilot/countersink side, or the screwdriver bit side.  When doing LOTS of holes needing countersinking, these save a tremendous amount of time.  The first picture below shows such a combination.  The piece on the far left is the holder, and one of the bits is shown next to it.  Usually they come with one bit, but the kit shown comes with several.  The green line represents where it'll chuck into the holder.  The yellow arrow shows the drill/countersink side of the bit, and the red arrow shows the phillips bit (which can be changed out for whatever type of screw you're using) which you'd undo the collar, flip the bit, and drive the screw into the material.  The second picture shows what just a drill bit/countersink combination looks like, and is essentially what's being pointed to by the yellow arrow in that washed out did-the-best-I-could-to-make-it-visible picture.

I have several drills, so I have a "dedicated" countersink bit that I'll put in one drill, and have another drill with the bit I need to do the pilot holes.  The dedicated countersink is shown in the third picture.  Whatever works for you, but seriously, if you only have a single drill, spend your money wisely and get the combination setup.  It'll cost about $10-15, whereas the other two will cost about $6-10.  After doing half a dozen or so holes and having to remove the drill bit, chuck the countersink, tighten it up, remove it, etc, you'll be tempted to skip this step.  Don't. 

The fourth picture shows what a pilot hole and countersink should look like when finished.  Precision is nice, but not necessary.  Countersink enough that the screw head will be below the surface of the wood.  With practice, patience, or both, you'll get the "feel" for what the right depth is.  Remember, too little at first is easy to fix.  Too much just makes the job harder on yourself.  Slow, test the screw head in your countersunk hole.  When the head of the screw can be placed inside, you've gone deep enough.
« Last Edit: October 02, 2005, 11:43:39 am by DrewKaree »
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Re: From Sawboard to........um.......be continued (Pixelhugger Jr)
« Reply #13 on: September 26, 2005, 02:48:54 pm »
Use some glue and screws to keep the ripping guide and base together, just use glue, just use screws....WHATEVER.  It's YOUR decision to make, and the only way you'll ever learn what method is acceptable to YOU is to give it a shot.  I've thrown some Gorilla Glue on here and screwed it together.  Gorilla Glue expands like crazy, so I threw the screws in there BEFORE it dries to help act as clamps and keep everything together.  The only thing to remember is if you have glue squeeze out, clean it up right away, and very thoroughly.  A glob of dried glue can affect your sawboard, so tidy up if you glue.

I told you earlier that you don't have to be precise with your initial measurements, that a good "eyeballin" is good enough at this point.  To demonstrate just how determined a fool you have to be in order to screw this up, I'm REALLY setting this thing up out of wack.  It's nice to match up the 3 sides as close as possible, but I'm going to be demonstrating that it's not VITAL to get them dead-nuts even. 

I think you'd be able to tell just how much of an angle I'm fastening these together at even if you were drunk.  I'll be posting more pics when I finish this up, for now, here's the cockeyed example that should tell you if a dolt like me can't eff this up, you should be giving this a try too ;)
« Last Edit: October 02, 2005, 11:52:29 am by DrewKaree »
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Re: From Sawboard to........um.......be continued (Pixelhugger Jr)
« Reply #14 on: September 27, 2005, 12:21:41 am »
A decent bloke would have posted this before I started my cabinet and trashed a plethora of wood due to crooked cuts.

Living the delusional lifestyle.

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Re: From Sawboard to........um.......be continued (Pixelhugger Jr)
« Reply #15 on: September 27, 2005, 12:42:56 am »
A decent bloke would have posted this before I started my cabinet and trashed a plethora of wood due to crooked cuts.

I think you've explained me quite well. ;D

Does this mean I no longer have to take my pants off and run through the streets to be considered "indecent"?

I've got all those angles to cut on that CP I showed you, so I figured I'd use this nice toy my lovely wife decided to allow into our home.  All those friggen angles are bound to catch the cord and/or turn my corded saw into a cordless version

What else did you have problems with?  I need some ideas for a new project designed to make you smack your forehead ala Homer.  DOH!
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Re: From Sawboard to........um.......be continued (Pixelhugger Jr)
« Reply #16 on: September 27, 2005, 12:49:18 am »

Living the delusional lifestyle.

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Re: From Sawboard to........um.......be continued (Pixelhugger Jr)
« Reply #17 on: September 27, 2005, 12:55:28 am »
What else did you have problems with?  I need some ideas for a new project designed to make you smack your forehead ala Homer.  DOH!
Well right now I am painting and not really getting the results I was hoping for so perhaps if you could write a painting guide in about 4 weeks that would be just sthooper.....  ;D

Find an HVLP sprayer.  Around November I'll let you know how to get good results with it.  All these things will be useful for you on your second project.  You know you ARE going to have a second project, yes?
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Re: From Sawboard to........um.......be continued (Pixelhugger Jr)
« Reply #18 on: September 27, 2005, 12:57:19 am »
You know you ARE going to have a second project, yes?
Affirmative. I got the bug.

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Re: From Sawboard to........um.......be continued (Pixelhugger Jr)
« Reply #19 on: September 27, 2005, 03:11:11 pm »
I believe a decent bloke did post this already!

Certainly not as accurate and thorough as DK though.

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Re: From Sawboard to........um.......be continued (Pixelhugger Jr)
« Reply #20 on: September 27, 2005, 03:23:17 pm »
Or, the links in this topic posted last year.  ;)

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Re: From Sawboard to........um.......be continued (Pixelhugger Jr)
« Reply #21 on: September 27, 2005, 05:29:47 pm »
I believe a decent bloke did post this already!

Or, the links in this topic posted last year. ;)

Ummm... Thanks guys, I always appreciate my errors being brought to everyones attention. Hey, can you two smell petrol?

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Re: From Sawboard to........um.......be continued (Pixelhugger Jr)
« Reply #22 on: September 27, 2005, 07:30:01 pm »
I'm pretty sure I read this at least a year ago too. From that suggestion I made one too, but I guess I suck so much that even with the sawboard I manage to f*ck up. Sometimes I cut a tiny bit into the sawboard (I guess I let the machine wobble a bit)
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Re: From Sawboard to........um.......be continued (Pixelhugger Jr)
« Reply #23 on: September 27, 2005, 11:20:18 pm »
How do you use htis thing?

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Re: From Sawboard to........um.......be continued (Pixelhugger Jr)
« Reply #24 on: September 27, 2005, 11:37:14 pm »
just made my sawboard/guide, and it works out great! ;D  Very simple desighn, and saves so much time compared to clamping a guide down, adjusting, clamping, repeat.......  thanks for the post!

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Re: From Sawboard to........um.......be continued (Pixelhugger Jr)
« Reply #25 on: September 28, 2005, 01:28:09 am »
How do you use this thing?

Well, after completing it, mark the line you need to cut, put your sawboard down so that the edge of it lines up right on that mark.  No need to do any more measuring, double-checking, nothing.  Set it down, clamp it in place, and run your saw down the sawboard.  I'll blather on in depth about it when I get to that point, hopefully tomorrow.  If that doesn't describe it well enough, check the link in the first post in this thread.  They've got it all laid out.  I'm just documenting the making of mine so as to morph this into completing a CP in the very near future, hence the "to be continued".;)

I figured if Pixelhugger could inflate the thread views by showing you drawrings, I'd start it out and follow his lead ;)  :angel:
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Re: From Sawboard to........um.......be continued (Pixelhugger Jr)
« Reply #26 on: September 28, 2005, 05:18:42 am »
That's so simple and obvious it almost makes me want to cry!

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Re: From Sawboard to........um.......be continued (Pixelhugger Jr)
« Reply #27 on: September 29, 2005, 06:03:54 pm »
Quote
I figured if Pixelhugger could inflate the thread views by showing you drawrings, I'd start it out and follow his lead

Hehehe...:)
« Last Edit: September 29, 2005, 06:12:39 pm by Pixelhugger »
Project mega thread HERE

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Re: From Sawboard to........um.......be continued (Pixelhugger Jr)
« Reply #28 on: September 30, 2005, 01:57:52 am »
BTW thanks for putting all this together Drew. Your router comment has me thinking....
Project mega thread HERE

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Re: From Sawboard to........um.......be continued (Pixelhugger Jr)
« Reply #29 on: September 30, 2005, 09:48:55 am »
Can we make this a sticky.  I think it is a very helpful tip that alot of people w/ no wood working skills and a small budget could use in any project.  Thanks Drew

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Re: From Sawboard to........um.......be continued (Pixelhugger Jr)
« Reply #30 on: September 30, 2005, 06:17:38 pm »
'Bout time you started contributing to this community...

Nice tip, BTW.

If you weren't hangin' out in EE all the time, you'd see the other stuff ;) ;D

He said contributing not contaminating.  ;)

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Re: From Sawboard to........um.......be continued (Pixelhugger Jr)
« Reply #31 on: October 01, 2005, 01:21:48 pm »
just made my sawboard/guide, and it works out great! ;D  Very simple desighn, and saves so much time compared to clamping a guide down, adjusting, clamping, repeat.......  thanks for the post!

I must admit to sticking to the "old codger" ways and acknowledging it works while still sticking with my "measure, mark a line, measure again, clamp a guide, measure yet again, cut, measure, curse, curse, curse, curse, measure a new piece, start again" method.  This works way easier and gets less frowns when kids are around. ;D

Can we make this a sticky.  I think it is a very helpful tip that alot of people w/ no wood working skills and a small budget could use in any project.  Thanks Drew

THAT is a good suggestion for a thread title.  Gonna change it shortly to reflect just that feeling, and you're welcome. 

BTW thanks for putting all this together Drew. Your router comment has me thinking....

Same to you.  Your purdy project isn't gonna be able to utilize this much what with all those curved cuts, but there's a reason you're the thread view king of projects.  This'll work best if you've got one of those routers with a "one flat side" base.  Someone once said their round base wasn't equal on all sides, but I've never actually measured it, I've just rested on the "I'm pretty sure he's wrong on that point" theory.  Throw a string around the shank in your unplugged router and run it around the base to make sure.
« Last Edit: February 09, 2006, 04:18:34 am by DrewKaree »
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OK.  I'm gonna post these in order of being taken and edit this as I go.

You should have a single wide piece of wood on top of which should be fastened a thinner piece of wood.  Your cuts may be a touch wavy, and this is just to neaten up the backside of your guide.  This step DOES NOT have to be done, I'm just doing it because I was showing how drastic the misalignment can be and still end up with a serviceable and perfectly fine sawboard, and my example REQUIRES straightening out the back (non-business) end of it.

I'm gonna use my trusty piece of angle iron, but you can use a 2x4 or whatever esle you have lying around, or just cut it to make the backside match up.

I've clamped my angle iron on the "table" of the sawboard and just a tad offset from the factory edge my saw will ride on.  This is to take into account for the width of my saw's shoe (base), so this can be eyeballed or measured (if you're REALLY anal ;) ) to give you the distance to keep the angle iron/2x4/whatever away from your factory edge.  Just be sure to use something that will be taller than the additional piece of wood your saw will be resting on. 

After clamping it into place, keeping the saw base against that "edge", run it down the backside of your sawboard.  This'll give your backside a reasonably tidy appearance if you so desire.
« Last Edit: October 01, 2005, 01:45:50 pm by DrewKaree »
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This is just a shot to demonstrate what I'm talking about above.  See the offset of the angle iron from the factory side?  All I'm essentially doing is matching the two back edges for beautification purposes.  If you've cut your pieces reasonably straight and subscribe to the Stingray "do as little as possible to achieve the desired results" theory, then skip it.  Seriously.  Don't make this harder on yourself than it needs to be.  I promise this will work if the back edges were left the way my original setup was glued/screwed together ;D
« Last Edit: October 01, 2005, 01:50:31 pm by DrewKaree »
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Here's the money shot ;D

This almost perfectly demonstrates how this will work.

To finish up the sawboard, you will now run the shoe of your saw along the factory edge of your thinner piece to trim your sawboard to the dimension of the tool. 

Your sawboard is now perfectly set to create a straight edge when used with that tool.  The entire length of the sawboard is now cut to be able to give you a straight edge to use to press your saw base against to keep your saw cut straight, and the offset from the side of the saw base to the blade is now automagically figured out for you.

All that remains to be done when you need to cut a straight edge on your material, such as for a CP, is to mark the line you need.  Clamp your sawboard so that the edge you just cut rests on that line.  Run your saw along your sawboard.  VIOLA!  A nice straight cut along your line that only requires you to measure your original line accurately. 
« Last Edit: October 01, 2005, 02:14:07 pm by DrewKaree »
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Here you see the back half of my sawboard after it was cut.  Both the top piece and the bottom piece are now evenly matched, and you can still see the angle the two pieces were fastened at.  I'll clean this up later, but at this point, you are done with yours.

I feel the need to be more precise than the above description for those who will inevitably point this out ;)  When you place your sawboard on the line you wish to cut, anything that is visible to you will be considered the "waste" pieces.  If you have to have your cut INCLUDE your pencil line, you'll need to place the sawboard ON that line so that it is not visible.  Usually, most folks want that line to be the cutoff point, so would put the sawboard so that the edge of it rests ON the line.  This way, when the cut is made, it removes the pencil line, and is at the proper measurement.  This is to some a trivial detail, but for others, is vital.  You can tell who these people are, as they'll undoubtedly be carrying a micrometer and several other obscure measuring devices in their pocket protectors, perhaps necessitating another pocket protector for pencils and the like ;)   ;D
« Last Edit: October 01, 2005, 02:22:44 pm by DrewKaree »
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Re: From Sawboard to........um.......be continued (Pixelhugger Jr)
« Reply #36 on: October 01, 2005, 02:36:27 pm »
Find an HVLP sprayer.

Drew, a search for one of these resulted in quite a few products that were *WICKED* expensive. I did find one link to a conversion gun for about a buck-n-a-half. Will this suffice for your recommendation?

http://www.gleempaint.com/hvcongunnew.html


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Re: From Sawboard to........um.......be continued (Pixelhugger Jr)
« Reply #37 on: October 01, 2005, 02:43:34 pm »
Please don't tell me I'm the only one here with folders of downloaded project example pictures from other people's projects! :P I actually STILL refer to some of the Robotron 3000 pics I d-loaded from Zappers site...in the late 90's.

Nope! You are not alone. Although... I must say that your's is the largest of the archives I have saved. I've been through it several times.  :) I'm waiting for Bones to hurry up and get his done so I can add it to the list of great cabinet ideas. Of course, his will likely be larger than yours... err... zip file I mean.  :o
« Last Edit: October 01, 2005, 02:50:15 pm by In2ishun »

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Re: From Sawboard to........um.......be continued (Pixelhugger Jr)
« Reply #38 on: October 01, 2005, 03:08:59 pm »
Find an HVLP sprayer.

Drew, a search for one of these resulted in quite a few products that were *WICKED* expensive. I did find one link to a conversion gun for about a buck-n-a-half. Will this suffice for your recommendation?

http://www.gleempaint.com/hvcongunnew.html



Yeah, those work, but I'm almost positive.....wait, firstly, do you live in the States, or overseas (from me)?  While you reply, I'm on Google looking for the one I saw that includes the turbine and whatnot...OR, alternatively, it's loud as hell, but the Wagner HVLP will work for this purpose and it's full price is only about $60 bones.
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OK, this ain't the one I just saw, and Menards had them on sale for $50 but they don't have a "store" online, just a place to buy gift cards and replica cars ::)

Here's one that's SIMILAR to what I saw, but this is more expensive than the one I saw.  Here's the link to the one I'm picturing.

http://www.bimart.com/itemdetail.aspx?itemno=601903



For an even wider selection, here's harbor freight's selection of HVLP's, and their prices are cheap enough on these to warrant "testing" 'em out.  Halfway down that page they've got a $50 version that may work quite well.  If you've got a compressor though, just pick up an HVLP gun....no sense in fiddling with stuff you have to have MORE room to store it in.

http://order.harborfreight.com/EasyAsk/harborfreight/results.jsp

I seem to remember Campbell Hausfeld selling a cheap-ish $200 version with a turbine and everything, but can't find anything other than the "pro-model" versions they have now.
« Last Edit: October 01, 2005, 03:23:36 pm by DrewKaree »
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If you have to have your cut INCLUDE your pencil line, you'll need to place the sawboard ON that line so that it is not visible. 

Thats why I use this:



Seriously, I made my sawboard today, and quickly fell in love with it.  Helping an relative make a DDR cabinet, and the quality of my circular saw work went up a notch or two with this.

Thanks!
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Wow. Drew got a sticky.

Living the delusional lifestyle.

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Re: No table saw? Build a $15 Sawboard for your small budget/project! *EDITED*
« Reply #42 on: October 19, 2005, 11:53:19 am »
This is a cool idea.

I just wanted to comment that you can get saw fences (the guide, long straight edge) from hardware stores.
Also watch garage sales and auctions for used table saws and such.  My dad got an old 1/2hp small table saw for $12 at an auction.  It's great for doing small stuff, but not a cabinet.

I take it the saw board is so you don't scratch surface of the material you are cutting.  For an arcade that isn't that big of a deal, it's usually plywood or mdf that is being cut.  So just getting some clamps and a fence from your local hardware store would be sufficient.

That's all I used.  I went to someone that had a large table saw to cut down the 4x8 sheets of mdf.  Otherwise I just used a fence and circular saw, or my dad's small table saw.
« Last Edit: October 19, 2005, 11:55:06 am by SirPoonga »

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Re: No table saw? Build a $15 Sawboard for your small budget/project! *EDITED*
« Reply #43 on: October 19, 2005, 01:25:19 pm »


BUSH WON!!!!  SAWBOARDS ARE FOR COMMIES!!!!



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Re: No table saw? Build a $15 Sawboard for your small budget/project! *EDITED*
« Reply #44 on: October 19, 2005, 10:45:03 pm »

I take it the saw board is so you don't scratch surface of the material you are cutting.


No, not at all.  I thought I said it somewhere up there, but even I can't be troubled to read what I write ;D

The sawboard is to remove any guesswork from the equation when cutting your material.

Normally you'll have to measure the offset of the side of the shoe on your saw.  To use your fence, you'll have to measure your line, and then using the offset measurement of your saw, place your fence that far away from the line, and THEN make your cut (and I have yet to see a saw that has the blade perfectly on the exact edge of the shoe).

With a sawboard, you simply place the edge of the sawboard on your cut line, and run the saw down the sawboard.  No guesswork, no nothing.  Just clamp it on there and your offset is automagically accounted for.  The shoe rides right along the factory edge each time, therefore the edge will always be the cut line

Hopefully these pics will explain what my words might not be doing so much goodly worky worky at on the day after yesterday ;)
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Re: No table saw? Build a $15 Sawboard for your small budget/project! *EDITED*
« Reply #45 on: October 19, 2005, 10:52:50 pm »

BUSH WON!!!!


That's the first thing I don't even have to contemplate as to whether you're wrong or just delusional ;)  I think even Dartful would have to admit that he agrees with you, although you slipped up and were supposed to say "GORE LOST!"

Quote

SAWBOARDS ARE FOR COMMIES!!!!


So only Democrats can use 'em?  Remember, conservatives are fascists, liberals are the commies.  Where'd you put your game program?

Quote

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At least decorate if you're gonna hang out here.  Put some curtains up, do some of that fruity "coordinating separates" you dirt-eating commies are so good at....SOMETHING!  This place is so full of testosterone, it's just SCREAMING for your decorator sensibilities.
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Re: No table saw? Build a $15 Sawboard for your small budget/project! *EDITED*
« Reply #46 on: October 20, 2005, 12:49:06 am »
Put some curtains up...

Window Treatments, you uncultured beast....Window Treatments!!!




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P.S. Like the Sawboard instructions though, kudos!

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Re: No table saw? Build a $15 Sawboard for your small budget project!
« Reply #47 on: November 24, 2005, 01:00:12 pm »
Just wanted to offer my mistakes so others don't make them.

1. Make sure that the top part of your saw board (ie the second layer with the straight edge that guides the saw) is long enough that you can have clamps on there and the saw motor will still clear the clamps.  For my saw this means about 4" for the length of the motor plus room for the clamps, so about 7".  I didn't leave enough, so cutting short pieces is very difficult.  I'm often hitting the clamps with my saw.  In a couple of instances I had to screw my sawboard to my work.

Well, I guess that there's only one.
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Re: No table saw? Build a $15 Sawboard for your small budget project!
« Reply #48 on: November 28, 2005, 06:44:36 am »
This is a nice and simple idea. A very worthwhile addition to a cabinet makers forum.

I will be making one first thing 2morrow.

BTW. I have my own method for joining two sheets of material 90 degrees from each other. ( A Corner) But it involves having a 4be2 to screw into, and screw holes through the panel. How do others join their sheets.
Also I have found these plastic caps that you lightly hammer into the heads of the screws to neaten up the screw appearance.
I would prefere to know how to make a strong blind join though.
Please dont tell me glue, it just isnt strong enough or quick enough when sticking to melamine coated material.

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Re: No table saw? Build a $15 Sawboard for your small budget project!
« Reply #49 on: November 28, 2005, 11:25:59 pm »

BTW. I have my own method for joining two sheets of material 90 degrees from each other. ( A Corner) But it involves having a 4be2 to screw into, and screw holes through the panel. How do others join their sheets.
Also I have found these plastic caps that you lightly hammer into the heads of the screws to neaten up the screw appearance.
I would prefere to know how to make a strong blind join though.
Please dont tell me glue, it just isnt strong enough or quick enough when sticking to melamine coated material.

I'd like to know what a 4be2 is, sounds like if it works for you, it'd be a worthy tip to share with the rest of us.  As for the rest of that stuff, it'd prolly be best asked in a separate thread with a title that reflects it, as I doubt you'll get as much help in this one as you could with a specific thread.  I've got some ideas, the next step is yours  ;)
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Re: No table saw? Build a $15 Sawboard for your small budget project!
« Reply #50 on: November 29, 2005, 05:14:36 am »

I'd like to know what a 4be2 is, sounds like if it works for you, it'd be a worthy tip to share with the rest of us.


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Re: No table saw? Build a $15 Sawboard for your small budget project!
« Reply #51 on: November 30, 2005, 12:45:00 am »
That doesn't sound right though.  He clearly spelt (",) BE, and his numbers are all catywampus.

It's 2x4.

I think he's referring to some kind of corner brace you nail into, but I dunno.

There's way too many inconsistencies for him to have meant 2x4.  I simply refuse to believe it.  Nuh-UH!
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Re: No table saw? Build a $15 Sawboard for your small budget project!
« Reply #52 on: November 30, 2005, 06:37:25 am »


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Re: No table saw? Build a $15 Sawboard for your small budget project!
« Reply #53 on: November 30, 2005, 09:08:16 pm »

remember, everything is upside down and back to front down under (",)


So other than not understanding ftw those little squiggles mean, you prolly wouldn't have any problems reading Hebrew ;)
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Re: No table saw? Build a $15 Sawboard for your small budget project!
« Reply #54 on: December 02, 2005, 04:59:22 am »

remember, everything is upside down and back to front down under (",)


So other than not understanding ftw those little squiggles mean, you prolly wouldn't have any problems reading Hebrew ;)

oi vey! you meshuganah...


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Re: No table saw? Build a $15 Sawboard for your small budget project!
« Reply #55 on: December 15, 2005, 04:41:38 pm »
Drew's a go-getter with this whole sawboard thing. Who knew?

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Re: No table saw? Build a $15 Sawboard for your small budget project!
« Reply #56 on: December 15, 2005, 07:49:43 pm »
Drew's a go-getter with this whole sawboard thing. Who knew?

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Re: No table saw? Build a $15 Sawboard for your small budget project!
« Reply #57 on: December 19, 2005, 09:01:28 pm »
oi vey! you meshuganah...

Meshuganah would be Yiddish...

Both languages use the same script though (although I'm not that good with my Yiddish so there might be some minor differences I don't know of)...

;)
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DrewKaree

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Re: No table saw? Build a $15 Sawboard for your small budget project!
« Reply #58 on: December 20, 2005, 03:37:33 am »

Meshuganah would be Yiddish...

Both languages use the same script though (although I'm not that good with my Yiddish so there might be some minor differences I don't know of)...

;)

Thankfully we were able to have that cleared up before a full-scale flame war broke out :D
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Re: No table saw? Build a $15 Sawboard for your small budget project!
« Reply #59 on: January 01, 2006, 02:29:04 am »
I finally made a sawboard after using the edge guide + ruler for way too long.  I got one 2X4 ft sheet of 1/2" MDF and made a sawboard for my circular saw and jigsaw.  One could hypothetically make an accurately cut cab out of a $20 jigsaw and one of these- which is pretty amazing.

For those of you who need extra clearance above the guide piece for clamps, I saw a picture of a sawboard with some routered grooves for clamps to fit into so there was 0 interference with the circular saw motor.  I'll try to find this picture again and post it.  I wonder if some people making their sawboards out of material that was really thick, then you would have to set the circular saw depth very deep and the motor would be very close to the sawboard guide. 

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Re: No table saw? Build a $15 Sawboard for your small budget project!
« Reply #60 on: January 26, 2006, 07:36:14 am »
For those of you who need extra clearance above the guide piece for clamps, I saw a picture of a sawboard with some routered grooves for clamps to fit into so there was 0 interference with the circular saw motor.  I'll try to find this picture again and post it.  I wonder if some people making their sawboards out of material that was really thick, then you would have to set the circular saw depth very deep and the motor would be very close to the sawboard guide. 

Great idea!  I too made some sawboards and now I cut like a pro except my motor does hit the clamps sometimes, but I can still make a straight cut by slightly lifting the saw while still keeping the front portion of it in contact with the guide on the sawboard.  Was a little nerve racking at first but I haven't screwed cuts up yet. 

Now with the idea of routing out a spot for the clamps, I don't think I'll be doing any more tricks with the saw while cutting.


DrewKaree

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Re: No table saw? Build a $15 Sawboard for your small budget project!
« Reply #61 on: January 26, 2006, 06:39:59 pm »
I'll amend these instructions sometime shortly to indicate a larger top plate to allow for the saw's motor to clear.  Thanks for other tips to make it better too! :)

*edit*
instructions now amended.
« Last Edit: February 09, 2006, 04:32:42 am by DrewKaree »
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Re: No table saw? Build a $15 Sawboard for your small budget project!
« Reply #62 on: February 14, 2006, 11:52:53 am »
Thanks Drew,
I do not know why I didn't read this sooner. I read this last weekend and built one immediatly. I got to use it this past weekend and it was great for getting straighter cuts without all the guess work.

Now if you could come up with a device to let us measure things accuratly.  :P
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DrewKaree

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Re: No table saw? Build a $15 Sawboard for your small budget project!
« Reply #63 on: February 14, 2006, 04:15:33 pm »

Now if you could come up with a device to let us measure things accuratly.  :P


I found several things, and in multiple colors too ;)





This last one's kinda old fashioned, but for those small jobs.....




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Re: No table saw? Build a $15 Sawboard for your small budget project!
« Reply #64 on: February 15, 2006, 02:50:53 pm »
Yeah, those are them!!! But I make my mark on the line, but then like gravity affects the graphite in my pencil or something because I make the cut and things seem to miraculously shift. It could have something to do with living in Georgia and magnetic fields or something.  ;D
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Re: No table saw? Build a $15 Sawboard for your small budget project!
« Reply #65 on: February 16, 2006, 01:01:11 pm »
I was watching one of the vids on the the finewoodworkingnetwork.com and one of the guys made a great modifcation to his... here's a rough sketch:



So yeah, basically the guide piece of wood is shifted over a bit in the earlier steps and you use the bottom piece to clamp down. Would help clear the motor on some of our saws, without having to use more wood or route pits for the clamps.

He also made a 90 degree sawboard which was pretty clever (compared it to a radial arm saw), but I don't think it would help out here too much so I'll not waste space with another drawing :)

Good videos on that site ($ though) for the budding woodworker!

Thanks again DrewKaree, for sharing such a great tip.

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Re: No table saw? Build a $15 Sawboard for your small budget project!
« Reply #66 on: February 16, 2006, 01:11:34 pm »
Oh heck why not, here's a quick sketch showing how he made a 90 degree/RAS version... might help those of us that can't make square cuts consistently.

The reddish stuff is the wood piece you're cutting, to clarify. The top picture is a birdseye view and the bottom picture is the fron view.



So, of course you have to fasten the two pieces at a perfect 90 degrees in the first place, but after that it could theoretically save even more time because you would only have to make one mark for some cuts.
« Last Edit: February 16, 2006, 01:14:09 pm by MikeDeuce »

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Re: No table saw? Build a $15 Sawboard for your small budget project!
« Reply #67 on: February 16, 2006, 03:36:52 pm »
Yeah, that's a great idea. But you would have to really make sure that the 90 was truly a 90 or it would be a tool of destruction.
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Re: No table saw? Build a $15 Sawboard for your small budget project!
« Reply #68 on: February 16, 2006, 04:04:36 pm »
Agreed, and a great way to test that is listed at the bottom of this page (under Quick Test): http://www.newwoodworker.com/squrmitrgag.html

You could screw in only a single screw in the corner where the two guide pieces overlap, allow the bottom piece of pivot, align it with a square, and clamp the pieces together tightly and test it out... adjust if necessary and then add a few more screws.

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Re: No table saw? Build a $15 Sawboard for your small budget project!
« Reply #69 on: February 17, 2006, 05:51:49 am »
This is a method I've used a few times: Make the sawboard as described excellently by Drew but make it so the opposite side of the saw board (the base part not the guide rail) extends about 6" out. Then use a router and 1/2" or 3/4" straight bit to trim the base piece  by having the router base held against the guide piece just like the c. saw. You're basically replacing the c. saw with the router (but not really in this case as you'll end up with one side for the c. saw and the other for the router). Make sure to mark on the guide which router bit (and router if you have more than one like me, the router freak I am) and size used originally.
Now the way I use it is to first cut *close* to the line (within 1/4"), then flip it over and line the edge of the router side right up with the line and trim the rest away. You could also just make one exclusively for router use and just use a jigsaw to rough cut to the outside of the line and then just do final trimming with the router. I probably use the second method more, but like I said, I'm a router freak. One thing about using saw/router boards is that it's a bit tricky to get beveled angles (like on the front piece of a cp) and when it comes to small parts it's VERY hard to use one of these efficiently. For small pieces I make a template and use a pattern bit on the router. I get the template to exact shape by rough cutting to lines and finish by sanding.



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Re: No table saw? Build a $15 Sawboard for your small budget project!
« Reply #70 on: March 02, 2006, 06:43:56 pm »
I guess I should post a link to this for future reference.

There is a small modification that adds a track to the sawboard. This prevents the saw from pulling away and ruining your cut. Details in this thread:

Modification to sawboard - Add a track
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Re: No table saw? Build a $15 Sawboard for your small budget project!
« Reply #71 on: March 30, 2006, 08:12:45 pm »
I used this idea on my cocktail table and it worked great.  Thanks for the idea
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Re: No table saw? Build a $15 Sawboard for your small budget project!
« Reply #72 on: April 15, 2006, 06:33:06 pm »
Ok - I do own a table saw, but cutting a 4x8 sheet of MDF by yourself is not the easiest thing to do. So when I stumbled upon Drew's idea for a Sawboard, I thought that it would be perfect for making straight cuts with my shaky hands.

Here are some photos of my new Sawboard, but more importantly a photo of what NOT to do when constructing your own. The first two photos show proper layout and setup, but the third photo - oops! I cut the board with the wrong edge of the saw against the rip-rail. The end result is about a two inch lip for the saw to ride on - very wobbly results.

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Re: No table saw? Build a $15 Sawboard for your small budget project!
« Reply #73 on: April 15, 2006, 06:41:58 pm »
I did use the short-edge Sawboard to make the straight cuts for the pieces of my new Sawboard - very carefully  :)

Now I have a true Sawboard with a proper edge for the saw base to run along. Here are some photos of the end result.

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Re: No table saw? Build a $15 Sawboard for your small budget project!
« Reply #74 on: April 17, 2006, 03:16:13 pm »
Does anyone have a good method or tips for doing interior angles cuts (like the angles with the arrows in the picture) with a sawboard or router? 

I can't really figure it since if I cut up to the line, then my blade is not deep enough (motor is in the way and can't lower it more) and there a piece that's not cut like in the second picture.

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Re: No table saw? Build a $15 Sawboard for your small budget project!
« Reply #75 on: July 13, 2006, 04:28:28 pm »
Cut just as you have been using a circular saw.  Then just finish off the cut with either a hand saw or a jig saw.  Just make sure you support the scrap piece so that it doesn't snap off and ruin your edge.

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Re: No table saw? Build a $15 Sawboard for your small budget project!
« Reply #76 on: August 01, 2006, 08:04:20 pm »
Instead of screwing the guide in place you can also cut a few grooves in the boards and attach it with bolts and wingnuts to make the guide adjustable. Just in case you ever need to use a different type of blade. Example... a panel blade is thinner than a carbide.

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Re: No table saw? Build a $15 Sawboard for your small budget project!
« Reply #77 on: August 17, 2006, 12:20:14 am »
This is a great idea and I'm definitely going to make a saw board as soon as I get a chance!

One tip for guys that already have the guide clamp shown at the beginning of the thread...one thing that helped me a lot was to cut a long strip of 1/2" mdf exactly the distance from the edge of the circular saw shoe to the blade (the right side offset in Drew's picture). 

Then after you mark your line just hold the strip tight to the guide and line it up to your pencil line and lock the guide down.  Remove the filler strip and make your cut. 

It takes a few minutes to get the strip just the right width, but once you do, you never have to do the measure and clamp thing again which saves tons of time in the long run (not to mention frustration).

Great Thread!
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Re: No table saw? Build a $15 Sawboard for your small budget project!
« Reply #78 on: August 17, 2006, 12:15:26 pm »
Here's one that I use that's similar to the sawboard here. It's kind of nice because the base is locked into a groove and you can't wander away from your cut, and the built in clamps are handy too. I use it most often for cutting down panels and if I have big parts with funny angles. I often find myself using it for big pieces because it's a PITA to use a table saw for big pieces... this way it's stable, safe and quick.

As a bonus (I work on lots of stuff, so I find it handy, anyway) you can hook your router up to it as well... great for making dado's!

Also, I found it a lot cheaper on Ebay.

http://www.eurekazone.com/products/detail/sgs.html

DrewKaree

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Re: No table saw? Build a $15 Sawboard for your small budget project!
« Reply #79 on: September 03, 2006, 02:11:08 am »
It's not THAT common, otherwise we wouldn't have stories to relate!  It only takes a second to say "hold my beer and watch this!" ;)
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Re: No table saw? Build a $15 Sawboard for your small budget project!
« Reply #80 on: October 13, 2006, 08:32:12 pm »
Well I broke down and made some sawboards today. An 8', 4' and 1' and they work great.

I made the guide portion a little wider since my saw seems to have a rather large motor.

Thanks Drew, now maybe I can cut straight  :o


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Re: No table saw? Build a $15 Sawboard for your small budget project!
« Reply #81 on: January 06, 2007, 12:22:17 am »
I made one of these to help me trim the damaged bottom edge off of a Reactor cabinet.  It worked perfectly and has put my table saw purchase on the backburner, for now at least.  ;)  I have pics if anyone is interested.  Thanks for the great idea.
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Re: No table saw? Build a $15 Sawboard for your small budget project!
« Reply #82 on: January 28, 2007, 08:47:59 pm »
I just made one of these today. Awesome idea and instructions. I used 1/2" MDF but I think I should have used 3/4". I'm a total woodworking newb, and I think the 3/4" would have been easier. With the 1/2", I had to use 3/4" screws, because the 1" would have poked through the bottom. I screwed up (*snicker*), and had to redo all my holes, but I finally got it together and it looks like it should work. I may remake it after a few uses.
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Re: No table saw? Build a $15 Sawboard for your small budget project!
« Reply #83 on: February 06, 2007, 12:12:53 am »
next time use no screws...

wood glue will provide a strong enough bond...

you just have to make sure that no glue squeezes out onto the surface your saw will be on...

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Re: No table saw? Build a $15 Sawboard for your small budget project!
« Reply #84 on: February 07, 2007, 10:54:44 am »
I probably will, but what kind of glue? Is just the normal wood glue (I have some Titebond(?) at home) okay? It'd take quite a bit to glue an 8' sawboard, which I plan to build next.
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Re: No table saw? Build a $15 Sawboard for your small budget project!
« Reply #85 on: February 07, 2007, 11:00:22 am »
Normal titebond will work fine. The resulting joint is stronger than wood. No mechanical fasteners are needed. I'd personally use screws alone though, so the parts are replacable if they get cut or damaged.
« Last Edit: February 07, 2007, 03:50:29 pm by NiteWalker »



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DrewKaree

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Re: No table saw? Build a $15 Sawboard for your small budget project!
« Reply #86 on: February 07, 2007, 03:49:38 pm »

Now mechanical fasteners are needed.


should read "NO mechanical fasteners are needed"
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Re: No table saw? Build a $15 Sawboard for your small budget project!
« Reply #87 on: February 07, 2007, 03:51:41 pm »
Thanks for the catch drew. Your superhuman abilities continue to amaze me. :notworthy: :notworthy:

 :laugh2: :laugh2: :laugh2:
Seriously, thanks for the catch. :cheers:



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Re: No table saw? Build a $15 Sawboard for your small budget project!
« Reply #88 on: March 03, 2007, 10:36:48 am »

  Wonderful. All of these success stories of people making their sawboard and I have to relate how I somehow screwed mine up.

I used a leftover piece of 1/2" MDF for my sawboard. I glued my guide to my base, let it set up, then cut. The first time I cut the blade got away from me a little. I thought thats ok, I'll just back up and try again, thats the beauty of this idea. I ran a couple of passes back and forth and soon I had my base as straight as my guide. I measured to be sure the width was consistent all the way down and it was.

Then I tried some practice cuts with my new sawboard. I made two marks, lined my board up with it, put my saw on the guide, and cut away. A perfectly straight cut except that the cut is a little over 1/16" away from the base and the line I'm trying to cut. I try again and sure enough I get this perfectly straight line that is just a little bit off of the line I measure.

I took a closer look at the saw and my sawboard. When I line my saw up to the guide, I find that there is just a little bit of space between my saw blade and the base of my sawboard. Somehow when I originally cut my sawboard, I managed to cut away more wood towards the guide that I should have been able to.

Oh well, off to the Depot I suppose.

Joel

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Re: No table saw? Build a $15 Sawboard for your small budget project!
« Reply #89 on: March 03, 2007, 11:10:25 am »
I've had that problem too. Whatever the reason, now and then  I manage to cut away more than should be possible and the board gets damaged.
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Re: No table saw? Build a $15 Sawboard for your small budget project!
« Reply #90 on: March 11, 2007, 01:46:23 am »
Good day

I'm new here so let me introduce myself.

My name is niki, I'm 62, retired already 6 years and woodworking is my hobby for the last 12 years. I live in Poland just because it's cheap here (comparing to "west" Europe).

As an amateur, 45% of my tools is the table saw, the other 45% is the router table and the rest is, circular saw, drill press, sander and drills.

I've seen this post and thought to share with you my saw board (that is called sometimes also CS cutting guide), and the method of marking/positioning.

This is one of two methods (the other one is just a straight edge) and the construction is the same as DrewKaree explained but I'm using "Floor Panels". HDF, Formica on both sides, 15 years guaranty and the saw is "skiing" on it.

As you will see on the pics, I added "sub base" that gives me better control and more important, I can align the blade to the base edge so the saw blade does not "pull" to one side or the other.

I don't like pencil marks so I'm using the knife marking method that is more accurate.

Regards
niki
























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Re: No table saw? Build a $15 Sawboard for your small budget project!
« Reply #91 on: March 11, 2007, 05:51:40 am »
Good stuff niki.  :cheers: You're the same niki from woodnet aren't you? You make really nice pic tutorials and this one is very nice as well. Great job and welcome to the forum.  :cheers: Are you an arcade freak too? ;)



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Re: No table saw? Build a $15 Sawboard for your small budget project!
« Reply #92 on: March 11, 2007, 06:36:43 am »
Thank you Nitewalker

Yep, the same niki

I’m not an arcade freak but for sure Oak freak, well, in Poland, you through a stone, you hit an Oak tree :).

I would like to share with you the other method, that is simpler but, I don’t know if to post it on this thread or a new thread, please advise.

Oh, and BTW, this Router (your avatar) ;D ;D ;D

niki

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Re: No table saw? Build a $15 Sawboard for your small budget project!
« Reply #93 on: April 01, 2007, 02:05:22 pm »
One could hypothetically make an accurately cut cab out of a $20 jigsaw and one of these- which is pretty amazing.

I'm a total woodworking newb, but I've just tried exactly this, and even with the base of my jigsaw held firmly against the guide rail, the blade drifts out away from the required edge... is this me (and is there a technique to it?), or is it just that I have a super-cheap jigsaw? Would a 'better' one do the same? or a different blade?

I spent a fun afternoon wrecking a spare piece of plywood while trying each of my router bits though, so that kind of made up for a couple of frustrating attempts at the sawboard. :-) I figured I should have a play and make some mistakes on cheap offcuts before buying the sheet for my cabinet.

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Re: No table saw? Build a $15 Sawboard for your small budget project!
« Reply #94 on: April 01, 2007, 03:31:45 pm »
The culprit was likely the blade. Cheap blades are prone to drifting. Bosch blades are excellent. That's what I would use.



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Re: No table saw? Build a $15 Sawboard for your small budget project!
« Reply #95 on: April 03, 2007, 01:14:46 am »
Jigsaws are also not the ideal tool for this, although they help with some of the cuts you can't finish with a circ saw.

The blade support makes a difference on a jigsaw, as well as what NW mentioned, the blade.  I also believe people tend to push a jigsaw more/faster than they should which contributes to the blade bending.  Lastly, the PROPER blade makes a far greater difference with a jigsaw than with any other saw I've seen.  Read the descriptions on the blade packages to see what they're designed for and pick the one best-suited to WHAT you're trying to accomplish in the TYPE of material you're trying to accomplish it on.

I've used 4 different jigsaws in my life.  I hated the one I originally bought (some Master Mechanice or something like that....whatever True Value's tool line was named), I liked my brother-in-law's DeWalt (although his A.D.D. butt has nothing but a collection of bent blades ::) ), thought the Milwaukee I used was so-so, and REALLY dig MY DeWalt. 
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Re: No table saw? Build a $15 Sawboard for your small budget project!
« Reply #96 on: June 10, 2007, 04:13:42 pm »

My turn... mine is gluing up now.  The base is 1/2" ply and the straight edge is 3/4" MDF.  Both are materials I already had around.

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Re: No table saw? Build a $15 Sawboard for your small budget project!
« Reply #97 on: August 25, 2007, 12:04:53 pm »
I made a sawboard, and I have to say it is a very good device.
There are two problems I have with mine. (I didnt take time to read this full thread, cause it is long, so these problems might have already been covered, if so I apologize.)
First problem:
I cant use it to cut through two pieces of 3/4" MDF.
The blade wont reach all the way through.
I always cut my side panels both at the same time, so they will match if I screw up a little. I used 3/4" mdf on my sawboard. If I had used 1/2" this might not be a problem.
Second problem:
Sometime during my cutting my skill saw angle got a little off, cutting the sawboard as I made my cut. I was unaware of this whenever it happened.
After a few cuts, I noticed my pieces were not true, one end was a little wider than the other. After much head scratching, I found my sawboard was a little wider on one end than the other, so when I laid the sawboard down and lined it up on my two marks,
The sawboard was actually running at at angle, which made my saw run at an angle. Since you get used to trusting the sawboard so much, I didnt even think to check it until I had checked my saw and double checked my first measurements.
It was only about 1/16" off, but it was still not perfect. Even though some wood putty will fix the crack, you just have to be aware of it, so that all your other panels dont follow the 1/16" error.
That sawboard is now termite food. My next board will be made with the 1/2" foot board, and I will check it's end widths before I make a cut.
Maybe draw a line on the edge of the foot, if the line is disappearing on one end  I know somethings wrong.

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Re: No table saw? Build a $15 Sawboard for your small budget project!
« Reply #98 on: August 27, 2007, 05:30:45 pm »
Make the base of your sawboard thinner to solve the first problem (hopefully).  It can be as thin as 1/8", which I think would juuuust give you enough blade depth on your saw.  Alternatively, you could cut everything to the proper dimensions with your saw for one panel, and use a router with a pattern bit.  The pattern bit will make an exact copy as well, plus you'll more than likely need a router to add T-molding, so.... :)

I've never understood the second problem, and you're not the first person to bring it up.  I've always kinda pushed on the handle of my saw at a 45, as if I'm trying to keep the entire shoe of my saw against the guide of the sawboard, and then moved the saw forward.  Never have I had this problem, so maybe a few of you guys who have can relate your technique or how you believe this happened :dunno
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Re: No table saw? Build a $15 Sawboard for your small budget project!
« Reply #99 on: August 27, 2007, 06:14:43 pm »
I've never understood the second problem, and you're not the first person to bring it up.  I've always kinda pushed on the handle of my saw at a 45, as if I'm trying to keep the entire shoe of my saw against the guide of the sawboard, and then moved the saw forward.  Never have I had this problem, so maybe a few of you guys who have can relate your technique or how you believe this happened :dunno

I think this is only possible if you've built your sawboard incorrectly. One important point of the construction, which is a bit elusive in your posts, is that you have to make a full-length cut with the circular saw against the sawboard's Guide Ripper. If you position the Guide Ripper over the Base in such a way that it's slightly angled and the trim cut doesn't remove material from the entire length of the base, then you might end up with a sawboard that cuts a slight taper! One way to check this is to push the saw along the sawboard and look at it from underneath. The circular saw blade should be tight against the edge of the sawboard over the entire length of the cut.

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Re: No table saw? Build a $15 Sawboard for your small budget project!
« Reply #100 on: August 27, 2007, 10:33:29 pm »
Quote
I think this is only possible if you've built your sawboard incorrectly. One important point of the construction, which is a bit elusive in your posts, is that you have to make a full-length cut with the circular saw against the sawboard's Guide Ripper. If you position the Guide Ripper over the Base in such a way that it's slightly angled and the trim cut doesn't remove material from the entire length of the base, then you might end up with a sawboard that cuts a slight taper! One way to check this is to push the saw along the sawboard and look at it from underneath. The circular saw blade should be tight against the edge of the sawboard over the entire length of the cut.

I did make the sawboard correctly, or at least I think I did.
The sawboard did perfectly the first few times I used it, I was truly amazed at how good it did.
Only thing I can think of is that the saw blade got a slight angle in it, maybe the bolt that holds the sawblade straight got loose, or I could have laid the saw down hard and knocked the angle adjustment out. If so, when I used the board, the angled saw blade sliced an angle in the board itself, that would make the board run at an angle, when lining up the bottom (foot?) of the board with two marks.
I dont know what happened, but I will follow drew's advice on my next one and make the foot out of thinner material. The saw blade would have to have a gross angle to it to cut much off a very thin foot.

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Re: No table saw? Build a $15 Sawboard for your small budget project!
« Reply #101 on: April 04, 2008, 08:02:12 am »
I may only be echoing what others have already written, but anyhow here's my experience. . .

I made a sawboard following the original article at the beginning of this thread, but I found it pretty awkward to use.  The guide strip is about the same width as my saw's motor housing, so there was no room left to apply clamps without the saw bumping into them.  Today I am making a new one with an additional two inches of material on the left, which will be the clamp area.

Mine also was the same length as the one described in the article.  The new one I am making a foot longer.  Better too long than too short.

When using the sawboard, it may be helpful to clean the foot of your saw and spritz it with silicone spray lubricant.  It's a dry lube sort of like clear spray paint -- only slippery.  It'll help the saw slide smoothly along.  (It's useful stuff to have around.)

When sawing it's important to keep firm control of the saw and keep it flat on the sawboard, and snug up against the guide piece.  Otherwise you won't get a straight cut, or you may even damage the sawboard.

I'll try to adapt the old sawboard for use with my jigsaw -- which may or may not work, since the cheapo jigsaw doesn't always cut a straight line even when I move it in a straight line.


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Re: No table saw? Build a $15 Sawboard for your small budget project!
« Reply #102 on: April 15, 2009, 08:57:43 pm »
FYI, if you change your saw blade you may need to make a new one of these. Some carbide teeth stick out the side of blades further than others.   

I love these guides, I have for my circular saw depending on which blade I use, and I have several for my router depending on what bit I am using.

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Re: No table saw? Build a $15 Sawboard for your small budget project!
« Reply #103 on: April 16, 2009, 09:22:45 am »
FYI, if you change your saw blade you may need to make a new one of these. Some carbide teeth stick out the side of blades further than others. 

You won't have to make a new one.  Just run it a couple times along the guide before you use it to cut anything measured.  The teeth will trim out the necessary material.

...of course, that's for moving to a wider tooth.  If you move to a narrower tooth you will have a little play.  How much could that possibly be, though?  A 32nd of an inch at the most?  If you need that much accuracy you're using the wrong methods with a $10 sawboard.

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Re: No table saw? Build a $15 Sawboard for your small budget project!
« Reply #104 on: April 17, 2009, 10:11:35 pm »
FYI, if you change your saw blade you may need to make a new one of these. Some carbide teeth stick out the side of blades further than others. 

You won't have to make a new one.  Just run it a couple times along the guide before you use it to cut anything measured.  The teeth will trim out the necessary material.

...of course, that's for moving to a wider tooth.  If you move to a narrower tooth you will have a little play.  How much could that possibly be, though?  A 32nd of an inch at the most?  If you need that much accuracy you're using the wrong methods with a $10 sawboard.

I am sorry that I bothered everyone with what I thought was a tip, but was actually something that did not need said. I thought that maybe someone might learn from my mistake but apparently it was to obvious.

I am new here, so thank you Chad for letting me know that post like I just made are irrelevant and should not have been said. I will not make this mistake again.

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Re: No table saw? Build a $15 Sawboard for your small budget project!
« Reply #105 on: April 20, 2009, 01:11:48 pm »
I am sorry that I bothered everyone with what I thought was a tip, but was actually something that did not need said. I thought that maybe someone might learn from my mistake but apparently it was to obvious.

I am new here, so thank you Chad for letting me know that post like I just made are irrelevant and should not have been said. I will not make this mistake again.


Erm... there was nothing hostile or sarcastic about my response?   :dunno

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Re: No table saw? Build a $15 Sawboard for your small budget project!
« Reply #106 on: April 20, 2009, 04:35:43 pm »
I am sorry that I bothered everyone with what I thought was a tip, but was actually something that did not need said. I thought that maybe someone might learn from my mistake but apparently it was to obvious.

I am new here, so thank you Chad for letting me know that post like I just made are irrelevant and should not have been said. I will not make this mistake again.

Try posting a different time of the month.  ;D
« Last Edit: April 20, 2009, 04:38:15 pm by Ginsu Victim »

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Re: No table saw? Build a $15 Sawboard for your small budget project!
« Reply #107 on: October 08, 2009, 12:59:49 am »
awesome, thanks.

this thing works great, as long as you take your time lining it up.

even when you think you're making pretty decent cuts this will improve them and it takes like 5 mins to put together out of scape wood.
Anyone got change for a dollar?
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Re: No table saw? Build a $15 Sawboard for your small budget project!
« Reply #108 on: October 11, 2009, 06:50:53 am »
BTW, you can buy these things off the shelf and they work a lot better than a home made one.
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Re: No table saw? Build a $15 Sawboard for your small budget project!
« Reply #109 on: October 12, 2009, 02:33:51 am »
how much?

mine was made with a dab of glue, 3 wood screws, wood salvaged from the trash and about 5 mins of my time.

hard to beat the price.. and it's taken my cuts down to within 5/100th's of a inch..
that could likely be my error in measuring or lining up the guide (yes i checked a few cuts with calibers.)
Anyone got change for a dollar?
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Re: No table saw? Build a $15 Sawboard for your small budget project!
« Reply #110 on: October 12, 2009, 04:30:55 am »
A 1.4m version is about 40 euro or so.

I made one myself too. Cutting with it was reasonably accurate, but never anything spectacular. Often things would go wrong though. The sawboard easily moves. The saw is not held down so it can easily wobble too. I had trouble clamping the sawboard without getting in the way of the saw itself.

Just got fed up with it and spend the money. It's really much easier and faster to use and the results are a lot better and more consistent. Don't even need to clamp it with the rubber sole and all, but often I do, just to make sure. Clamping it is a lot less work too though.
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Re: No table saw? Build a $15 Sawboard for your small budget project!
« Reply #111 on: October 12, 2009, 10:40:37 am »
I made one myself too. Cutting with it was reasonably accurate, but never anything spectacular. Often things would go wrong though. The sawboard easily moves. The saw is not held down so it can easily wobble too. I had trouble clamping the sawboard without getting in the way of the saw itself.

Just got fed up with it and spend the money. It's really much easier and faster to use and the results are a lot better and more consistent. Don't even need to clamp it with the rubber sole and all, but often I do, just to make sure. Clamping it is a lot less work too though.

Sounds like you made it wrong.  I measured the clearance my saw would need before I made my sawboards and my clamps never get in the way.  And it never moves if it's clamped down correctly.

The homemade sawboard is a great accessory for the hobbyist (especially if you're on a budget) and after all, isn't the whole point of this hobby to build things?  Seems like a little more patience would have paid off.

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Re: No table saw? Build a $15 Sawboard for your small budget project!
« Reply #112 on: October 12, 2009, 10:49:20 am »
I didn't build it wrong. The motor just hangs low on the side where it is supposed to rest on the guard.

If you want to build one yourself fine. I'm just saying, you're not saving that much and a metal rail is better and a lot easier to use. Much like you can use a $20 circular saw or a $200 one depending on the project.
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Re: No table saw? Build a $15 Sawboard for your small budget project!
« Reply #113 on: December 23, 2009, 11:01:25 am »
I didn't build it wrong. The motor just hangs low on the side where it is supposed to rest on the guard.

Sounds like you did build it wrong.  If the motor hangs that low you used the wrong piece of wood as your straightedge.  Use a thinner piece.

I built mine out of scrap from my shed.  I have a 4' and a 6' guide.  No cost.

I don't really see how a store built guide have an exact clearance for your particular saw.  That's the beauty of this saw guide.  You don't have to compute clearance from the guide to the blade on every cut.

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Re: No table saw? Build a $15 Sawboard for your small budget project!
« Reply #114 on: December 24, 2009, 02:19:30 pm »
I didn't build it wrong. The motor just hangs low on the side where it is supposed to rest on the guard.

Sounds like you did build it wrong.  If the motor hangs that low you used the wrong piece of wood as your straightedge.  Use a thinner piece.
The trouble was with clamping, but yeah what I did wrong was to make one at all.

Quote
I don't really see how a store built guide have an exact clearance for your particular saw.
Luckily the people who make these things do understand how.
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Re: No table saw? Build a $15 Sawboard for your small budget project!
« Reply #115 on: December 24, 2009, 03:28:18 pm »

I built mine with extra clearance on the clamping side of the board.  I have one with a wide motor too.  All you had to do was measure the saw before you built the thing to find out what your particular saw needed.  The whole point is building the thing so it fits the saw you yourself are using - if you didn't take your saw into account of course there's a chance the generic instructions won't fit.

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Re: No table saw? Build a $15 Sawboard for your small budget project!
« Reply #116 on: December 28, 2010, 07:38:20 pm »
Many thanks for posting this DrewKaree.  Slapped together 3 over the weekend with my father-in-law to help build a work bench........to help start a project.  We were both thoroughly impressed with how effective they turned out to be.

Saved us tons of work and headache  :cheers:

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Re: No table saw? Build a $15 Sawboard for your small budget project!
« Reply #117 on: February 27, 2011, 03:27:26 pm »
Was working in the shop today and was using my circular saw guide.  I built this a couple of years ago, and it is hands down the most used shop-made aide.  Whenever I have something too big for my table saw, I turn to this guide.  I have a friend who nearly never touches his circular saw because he feels it is dangerous and produces bad results; I can't convince him to make one of these. :)

One thing I did different was to place the guide so that there is overhang on both sides.  I cut one side with my circular saw, and the other side with my router.

I'm always amazed at how useful it is.

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Re: No table saw? Build a $15 Sawboard for your small budget project!
« Reply #118 on: April 04, 2011, 05:18:45 pm »
I'm trying to make a replacement control panel for my MAME cabinet.

The back edge of my control panel lid has a 30 degree beveled edge that lays against the glass screen cover (see attached image).

If I had a table saw, I'd tilt the blade 30 degrees, stand the board on its edge against the fence and try to cut it that way.  However, I don't have access to a table saw.

I'm wondering if there's some way that I could stand the control panel with the edge-to-cut facing up and use some sort of sawboard jig like the ones in this thread to make the cut with a circular saw set at 30 degrees.

I think one of the hardest parts will be finding something vertical to clamp it to.

Does anyone think this is doable?  Any ideas on how I might best go about this?

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Re: No table saw? Build a $15 Sawboard for your small budget project!
« Reply #119 on: May 25, 2011, 12:01:36 am »
One thing I did different was to place the guide so that there is overhang on both sides.  I cut one side with my circular saw, and the other side with my router.

That is a great idea.


Anyways, I think this project could have been done in one, fairly brief, post:


BEFORE YOU START: the thickness of the ripper guide, and especially the saw board base, will affect the depth of the blade and the thickness of wood you can cut. I found 3/4 stock a pain in the ass, so unless you're going to need it to put a bear down, I suggest using 1/2 stock. 3/8 might be fine, also.


1. acquire one (1) 2'x4' sheet of mdf/plywood/particle board.

2. measure (or even eye-ball) and cut a 6" strip off of it.

3. put saw up to main board, as if to cut a half inch or so off it. Mark the end of the saw plate on the board.

4. place ripper guide on main board at mark, factory cut end facing sawing side; glue/screw/staple ripper guide to main board.

5. place saw plate against ripper guide and saw remainder off saw board base.


For dual-use saw/router board:


4. from the above, there should already be room on the other side of ripper board; only screw ripper guide in.

5. make another ripper guide, and replace old one.

6. put router against ripper guide on that side, and 'rip that side to fit', too.
« Last Edit: August 03, 2011, 06:48:16 pm by Gray_Area »
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Re: No table saw? Build a $15 Sawboard for your small budget project!
« Reply #120 on: September 15, 2011, 01:12:12 pm »
On lunch yesterday, I went to Home Depot, and purchased some 48" x 24" x 1/4" hardboard, and a piece of 48" x 3" x 3/4" MDF commonly used for trim.  (It was pre-finished and pre-primed and dead straight.)  I had them use their panel cutter (which has always given me perfect cuts) and cut the hardboard down so that I had a piece that was 48" x 12" and two pieces that were 24" x 12".  I had them cut the same lengths from the MDF trim.  I went home, grabbed my glue and clamps, measured it out and set it up.  To that end, I had two sawboards built and ready by the time I returned home.  They cost me a grand total of $6.06, including the labour of the HD guy who cut 'em up.

 ;D

I do have a question on an idea I had.  If I'm using this for both my circular saw and my router, why not this idea:



On the side that you'd normally use your circular saw on, I believe there is a 4" - 5" distance between the blade and the edge that the base will ride along.  Considering my router base has a 3" distance from the outer guide to centre, if I only use the sawboard with my router using the 1/2" bit (for example), could I cut the channel you see in the diagram above, so that I would use the main side of the sawboard, without compromizing the outer edge?  Considering the outer edge (where the circular saw blade would run along) is not under any real strain, I don't see where it would be too much of an issue.  I'm just wondering if anyone has tried something like this before?  I like the idea, as then, you would have the ability to use either side for your sawboard - the smaller for clamping, or the smaller side of the saw.

Of course, given the inexpensive nature of the build, one of two things is true - either I try it, and if it doesn't work, I rebuild more for a cheap price, or else I just go out and buy more wood to make dedicated routerboards.

Thoughts?
« Last Edit: September 16, 2011, 09:47:20 am by Rick »

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Re: No table saw? Build a $15 Sawboard for your small budget project!
« Reply #121 on: October 18, 2011, 12:33:38 am »
I made myself a few of these sawboards at different lengths the other day. Soo bloody handy. I was using a long straight piece of pine before, and it would get cuts pretty close. Now with a proper guide, i swear its cutting the pencil line in half.

handyest thing ever.

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Re: No table saw? Build a $15 Sawboard for your small budget project!
« Reply #122 on: October 18, 2011, 11:29:21 am »
...

handyest thing ever.

+1

Of all the shop aids I've built, this one has been the best and most enduring.

Complete mini arcade cabinet plans available.

Namco

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Re: No table saw? Build a $15 Sawboard for your small budget project!
« Reply #123 on: May 02, 2012, 12:40:16 pm »
In this Kreg video, the presenter inadvertently rips off our sawboard idea:
... or maybe it was on purpose?  :angry:

Anyway, good video on how to use a sawboard.

kalars123

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Re: No table saw? Build a $15 Sawboard for your small budget project!
« Reply #124 on: May 02, 2012, 01:24:52 pm »
Just wanted to say thank you for this has helped me in my new builds since I no longer have access to a tablesaw

Noshbomb

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Re: No table saw? Build a $15 Sawboard for your small budget project!
« Reply #125 on: September 06, 2012, 03:31:38 am »
Thanks for this tip.  I will be making one first thing in the morning.

sharpfork

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Re: No table saw? Build a $15 Sawboard for your small budget project!
« Reply #126 on: June 24, 2013, 10:33:06 pm »
In this Kreg video, the presenter inadvertently rips off our sawboard idea...

Thanks, great safety tips in there too.

tophite

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Re: No table saw? Build a $15 Sawboard for your small budget project!
« Reply #127 on: August 24, 2014, 08:54:41 pm »
Cruicial so far in my build!  So easy to make!  We made one for our "s"ircular saw...  ;D

Wintersdark

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Re: No table saw? Build a $15 Sawboard for your small budget project!
« Reply #128 on: June 12, 2016, 10:55:36 am »
Wow.  I can't believe I've never thought of this.  Building one of these today!

kahlid74

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Re: No table saw? Build a $15 Sawboard for your small budget project!
« Reply #129 on: June 22, 2016, 02:53:17 pm »
Make sure, when you build one and use one, that you take into consideration blade thickness and style.  Diablo saw blades have a different teeth structure and ate into my first saw board as I was not paying attention.

zobook

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Re: No table saw? Build a $15 Sawboard for your small budget project!
« Reply #130 on: July 10, 2016, 03:45:25 pm »
Has anyone made one of these for a hand held jigsaw? Because that is what i have, and of course, i was never able to do a straight cut.
Supposedly there are cutting guides for jigsaws, but I was unable to find one in stores, and they are also only useful if you are cutting next to a straight edge of the material, so, no good...

Thanks in advance.

  
 

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