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Help needed for MONTROUS sound!
OSCAR:
--- Quote from: eightbit on January 13, 2003, 12:01:06 am ---How often are you really going to turn it up that loud?
--- End quote ---
Probably never... :)
But the speakers and amp I had laying around and didn't cost me a dime to put in my cabinet. Decent car amps and speakers can easily be found for cheap, so it makes for a decent solution for anyone not wanting to shell out extra $$.
Either works just as well, depends on the particular situation I guess.
JoeB:
Yes.. I got a couple of questions..
I actually am working on my arcade machine now, and I went out and purchased a 2nd hand Sony Amplifier. It's a 2 channel car amp rated at 30W RMS / Channel (~60W Max per channel) and draws continously 12A at 12V.
My question(s) are as follows:
- Most power supplies today (for PC) are switching ATX power supplies. How do you trigger the PSU to turn on?
- The values rated below are probably max values.. (since PSU's are switching and not continuous) so I assume 15A ~= 10AMP continuous. no?
- Isn't the "safer" thing to do is to get a real AC/DC 12V power supply? (The type car stereo stores use to show off amps/head units) ?? The reason I say this is because a PC PSU gives 12V.. but a car doesn't give 12V.. it really gives more along the lines of 13.5V (and as much as 14+ volts when the car is running)
Now, if I recall, POWER = CURRENT * VOLTAGE
Assuming Power is constant (e.g. 100W RMS) if voltage drops, current must go up to maintain the same power. So if you use only 12V, an amp rated at ~10Amps will require more, and will be running that PSU much hotter..
Yes, a car amp will give you the effect you want, and give you a huge array of great speakers to select from.. but I think it's also the most expensive way. Heck, after looking around, I've basically noticed that a dedicated Power supply (a 12V one) costs as much, if not more, than what I paid for the amp! SHEESH..
Maybe another alternative is to buy a really old home amp/stereo, hook it up to speakers, make sure it's in AUX mode, and just use the AMP part..
ARGGG.. can't decide..
Silverwind:
Interesting Idea...
I have some 6.5 component speakers... (6.5" woofer and 3/4" silk twees)
i was going to put them into my car... but not sure if I'm going to or not.. They wouldn't be too hard to mount in the cab.. and probably would have some decent sound with an amplifier..
BobA:
An older home receiver/amp is much cheaper then the car/amp/power supply combination. I was just in the local hock shop and they were selling very nice home receiver/amp units for alot less then a car amp. Since you are not worried about the tuner you can get a real deal if you don't go digital FM and go for an older unit. $20 dollars would be a realistic price. This compares with 45 for a lower power car amp and at least 45 for a PS to run it.
BobA
OSCAR:
--- Quote from: JoeB on January 13, 2003, 12:18:52 am ---Yes.. I got a couple of questions..
- Most power supplies today (for PC) are switching ATX power supplies. How do you trigger the PSU to turn on?
--- End quote ---
Short Pin 14 to 15.
http://www.arcadecontrols.org/yabbse/index.php?board=1;action=display;threadid=4347
--- Quote ---- The values rated below are probably max values.. (since PSU's are switching and not continuous) so I assume 15A ~= 10AMP continuous. no?
--- End quote ---
Yes. I've set up a number of cabs like this without problems. I've yet to see an amp blow a fuse for any other reason other than a short.
--- Quote ---- Isn't the "safer" thing to do is to get a real AC/DC 12V power supply? (The type car stereo stores use to show off amps/head units) ?? The reason I say this is because a PC PSU gives 12V.. but a car doesn't give 12V.. it really gives more along the lines of 13.5V (and as much as 14+ volts when the car is running)
--- End quote ---
Possibly. However a AC/DC 15A power supply is typically more expensive than a PC power supply, but it varies depending on your source. Again, I've had very good results with this. I wouldn't post it if I hadn't.
--- Quote ---Now, if I recall, POWER = CURRENT * VOLTAGE
--- End quote ---
yes.
--- Quote ---Assuming Power is constant (e.g. 100W RMS) if voltage drops, current must go up to maintain the same power. So if you use only 12V, an amp rated at ~10Amps will require more, and will be running that PSU much hotter..
Yes, a car amp will give you the effect you want, and give you a huge array of great speakers to select from.. but I think it's also the most expensive way. Heck, after looking around, I've basically noticed that a dedicated Power supply (a 12V one) costs as much, if not more, than what I paid for the amp! SHEESH..
Maybe another alternative is to buy a really old home amp/stereo, hook it up to speakers, make sure it's in AUX mode, and just use the AMP part..
--- End quote ---
Certainly a home amp is another alternative. Many car amps overrate their draw requirements. I've yet to have one blow a fuse due to overdraw. The only time I've ever had to replace a fuse is because of a short.
But as I mentioned before, car amps & speakers can easily be found for very little $$. I chose this method for my cab because I had all the necessary components laying around and it didn't cost a dime to add it.
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