Main > Main Forum

CP overlay - no plexi

Pages: << < (6/12) > >>

SUB ZERO:

I like plexiglass ... keeps my CPO nice and clean

GameOver:

Hey nice looking CP Sub Zero!  Can you elaborate on your comment that 'there's no edge to the plexiglass if it's done correctly'?

Nice job!

StormGiant:


--- Quote from: dmsuchy on September 20, 2005, 06:33:12 pm ---Storm, if your top is only 3/4 thick, are you going to rool the CPO over the rounded edge? Because I don't think that is enough surface for the adhesive to hold on to. Just a Thought since I have a rounded edge on the front of my CP and have used Mamemarqees in the past.

--- End quote ---


That is my current dilemma at this stage - whether to trim the CPO to within a 1/2" of the outer edge where the curve/round-over begins - or to cut the CP to a rectangle and roll over the front edge.  Having never used polycarbinate laminate, I was assuming that rolling over the edge and continued 2" underneath front would be enough for the adhesive.

GameOver posted that the edge of the CPO can be sharp, which would be irritating, so I'm leaning towards rolling the CPO over the front edge.

SUB ZERO:

What I mean by "edge."

... is when the lip of plexiglass is exposed ... typically around the trackball and edges of the control panel.

Most people find it uncomfortable if there arms are resting on that plexi edge or if there taking a swipe at the trackball and hitting it.

My plexi overlay has no exposed edges ... the trackball hole has a bevel and the t-molding is a perfect fit around the edges of the control panel.

It's actually quite comfortable

pmc:

Apropos timing. I'm building some additional/alternate control panels so I was just going through the same thought process this thread kicks up. I have lots of 3/4" MDF and wanted to do some quick and easy panels with T-molding edges. The options I'm considering:


* Lexan/plexi. I still have some extry from other work. Have to scrap the 3/4" MDF and go find 5/8" (5/8+1/8 thing). Not easy to find 5/8" stuff here. Offset the slot for the T-mold. Route out the holes in the lexan. Need printed artwork that matches panel button layout. Or I could use contact paper or whatever else I can find. Can label buttons with custom artwork. Relatively complicated compared to the alternatives.


* Laminate. If this is avail in smaller pieces I'd like to try it (my CPs are all a mere 24.5" x 7.5"). I can do some cool colors and the surface is damn near indestructable. I'm a little worried about lining up the t-molding so there's no lip from the laminate. Also don't want to deal with 4x8 sheets of the stuff. Routing and chipping issues are likely to be comparable to Lexan. No need for artwork (plus and minus).


* Happ pica vinyl or Parts Express vinyl. Twoud be best if I could get it in small bits since I need so little. Happs is $5 a foot plus shipping. Parts Express is like $15 a roll. Easy sleazy. No artwork to choose, fold the edges under and bang on some T-mold. Seems to be the easiest. Texturing is a plus. Color choice is more limited (black seems to be popular).


* Rustoleum enamel paint. This oil-based paint dries like a hard plastic.  Glossy. Great for durability. And I can custom mix the colors and/or do gradients. Very cheap I think (can buy in half-pints and have enough). Might look too home-made though. Can cover with poly or another clear coat.

I have a black painted cabinet. Not sure how laminate will look on that cab but am inclined toward that or vinyl. I'm torn with possibilities but find solice in the fact that I can build many of these things, try different things on each panel, and upgrade or make changes in the future. Not too many downsides except for time and money I guess...

-pmc

Pages: << < (6/12) > >>

Go to full version