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wiring control panel
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mallgood:
When I do my cab I'm planning on using 16 or 18 gauge MTW.  I also have some 16 & 18 THHN stuff too that I'm going to use for internal power wiring. (MMmm.. 1 power switch for the whole cab. ;D)  I wouldn't think that the 16 MTW (machine tool wire) would be a problem.  The only thing I can think of is if the connectors are too big for the cherry switch terminals.  But you could probably get away with using terminals made for smaller wire, or taking a pair of pliers and squeezing the connecter to make it a bit smaller.

As for switching the grounds, I wouldn't do it that way.  It would be easier, yes.  But some of the gamepads use higher voltages and you might burn something up.  I would switch the signals and leave the grounds.  The good part of it is that you could still have just 2 wires to the switch.  Connect all the grounds together and to the pad and the encoder, then use a switch or relay for the signals and run the cherry switch from the common of the 2.  If that makes sense... ???
toyfiend2004:
not a lick of sense. ???
Ed_McCarron:
I think what he was saying...

If you choose to switch the grounds, then you've NOT switched the control wiring.

Which means, if I understand your concept, that you will have the "Player 1 - Left" from the IPAC tied to the same switch contact as the "Player 1 - Left" from the game controller.

It might work, but I'd be scared to try it.  The IPAC supplies a voltage, probably 5v (never checked mine) to one side of your switches.  When you activate the switch, it gets pulled to ground, and tells the microprocessor in the IPAC "Hey, this just happenned."

So far so good... But the game pad ALSO supplies a voltage, which may or may not be compatible with the IPAC.  Since you've put both "Player 1 - Lefts" under the same lug, they are tied together, and you introduce the chance for some kind of problems...

toyfiend2004:
but if i understand my concept properly, the toggle switch prevents any power from crossing.  there are 3 (at least) connects on the toggle.  one has the ground from the hacked game pad, one has the ground from the IPAC, and the main connect runs to the daisy chained ground on the buttons.  the switch tells the buttons which is supplying the power.  the connects on the hacked control pad (dualshock PS2) dont carry any charge themselves, if i am not mistaken (not enough of one anyway) or they would short out during game play anyway, and would also eliminate the ground neccesity anyway.  Essentially neither the IPAC or the hacked controller will be passing current to the buttons/joys at the same time.  Plus, if it is that big of a deal, i could always unplug the controller from the console anyway.  (Did i ever even mention that it WOULD be hooked up to a PS2/XBox console via normal plugs/adapters?  I dont remember.  well I am!!!)  I hope this clears up questions and hopefully does not open up too many more.
M3talhead:
Radio-Shack 20 ga.

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