Fastener advice... (something REALLY clever)

[ScoopKW]

OK....

If you're not familiar with Supercade, please click this:

http://www.cybercoma.com/supercade/

Now then:

See the split level control panel? I want to be able to EASILY remove the top level, and replace it with another secondary control panel. Bolts and T-nuts aren't easy enough. I want to pull the sucker off, yet have stability for using the controls.

I'm thinking about four posts coming from the top panel that seat into holders on the main panel. These posts lock in place using spring-loaded ball bearings -- much like the detentes on the F-stop wheel of a manual camera, only bigger. Too bad I can't find anything I just described.

I want to be able to simply pull the top panel away, disconnect the wiring harness and replace it with another panel. (The second panel will be for my spyhunter yoke).

Cabinet gurus -- any advice?

Rockler tools didn't yield anything appropriate.

[AlanS17]

You probably won't like the idea, but I swear that velcro is strong enough to do the job. There aree lots of different kinds of velcro now, too. They even have one strong enough to adhere to brick.

If you're afraid of a gap or seeing the velcro, cut a channel into the lower control panel for the upper control panel to fit into. If you're worried about the velcro having better grip than it s adhesive and pulling apart, staple or tack the pieces to their own respective panels. And be sure to let the adhesive cure before you start sticking pieces together and pulling them apart.

[NoOne=NBA=]

I tried velcro on my modular system, and didn't like it.

It held well enough vertically, but it let the modules kind of wiggle in place a bit on the nap of the "loop" side.

[AlanS17]

That problem wouldn't exist if the CP sat in a groove, though.

[NoOne=NBA=]

It still had some give vertically, but didn't come completely off, the way I thought it would before trying it.
I haven't found any way around that.
The fuzzy part of the velcro is...fuzzy.
The fuzz may HOLD, but it will give some before it gets a good enough bite on the hook part.

[AlanS17]

Oh I see what you're saying.

There's a new breed of velcro that's basically 2 sets of hooks rather than fuzz and hooks. Once in place, that stuff doesn't budge at all. Not even a little bit. It's very rigid.

[Xiaou2]

 Think about how Door's lock.   Theres one side of a post that has a curved side which allows the shaft to slide it backwards via a spring.   Once its in place, the other side - which is squared,  does not allow reverse travel.   

 You can make a simular system where there are 4 metal posts that come out from the bottom of your removable top panel, and stick down about 4".   Each of the posts will have to be grinded so that there is a groove near the ends to which a mechanism can lock into.

 On your main panel.. you drill 4 holes (or heck, 2 post should be fine i think),
and make a spring loaded bar on each side.  One side of the bar will have the
curved face to allow travel,  and the other side flat to lock into the poles grooves.   

  You probably could use house Trim molding   (the decorative wood trim that sits on the edges of ceilings or floors)  for the locking bar. 

 Instead on metal posts, you could use wooden dowels too. 

 To unlock the system, you would need a release wire setup.  Where you pull the
main lockbar backwards with a wire that is attached to it.  The release could be a button,  or use a pull-cord that dangles out one side of the panel.

[PedroSilva]

Hi ...

I think your best choice is a magnetic lock. Depending on how much you want to spend, there are passive and electrically powered. They exist with several types of strongness from half a pound to several hundreds of pounds.

Here are some examples of electrically powered ones:
http://www.schneiderlocksmith.com/index.cfm/action/catalog.browse/id_category/e477f60a-39b2-4a52-9858-9d081ca9702e/category/Magnetic%20Locks

[AlanS17]

Is ti going to be safe near the monitor?

[PedroSilva]

That will have to be checked ... if they are on the sides of the CP and if the distance is no less then 20 cm ... I think there shouldn't be any problem ... but I really don't know ... it's better to consult a specialist ...

[wintermute]

This is a truely horrible drawing, but how about this, going with your detent idea:  Make a piece of wood say 4 inches wide extend down from the back edge of your top CP.  Cut a groove (a V-groove router bit would work well for this) horizontally along the lower portion of the 4 inches. 

Next get an aluminum solid round bar maybe 1/2" in diameter about 7" long (you can get these at home depot in the metal rack.  In fact you could probably use a piece of 3/8 copper pipe too).  Build a U-shaped enclousure for this bar out of wood (you could probably also use a metal U-channel also).  Inside the U channel put springs that will push against the bar.  On each end on the U channel, put a 1" wide piece of wood that allows the bar to stick half way out of the U channel.  Mount this U channel contraption inside the back of the lower CP.

The front of your upper CP should have an edge  or something that slides under the top of the lower CP to hold.  The back of the upper CP with the 4" tab will slide down past the bar until the round bar snaps into the V groove.  I guess you could mount this the other way too, so the back of the upper CP has a part that sticks under the lower CP top, and the front could have this groove/bar thing.

Hmm maybe this is too complicated.  Oh well it's just an idea...

[PetitMorte]

how about cam-locks like on the "ikea" computer desks?  A tall screw post fits into the edge of the panel, and the cam gets turned and locks it down solid.



http://www.outwaterhardware.com/catalog/form04.asp?page=1

They hold great, and are simple to release.  Simple is good.

[Lilwolf]

btw, I added two pieces of wood off the end of my control panels that hook under the cabinet.  So only the front was an issue. 

Then I have two pins that I put in the latch them in. 

I always hoped for a mechanical servo type mechanism to do it for me... but I never got it, and I've run out of room.   

But I'm happy with the stability of the pins.  The big trick is to drill the wholes for the pins in the control panel when its IN the cabinet through the outter holes.  So they always match up perfectly.

[AlanS17]

Cam locks are a great idea. The only problem that can occur is that they can be loose if the holes aren't drilled properly. If done well, though, it should work like a charm.

[Stingray]

Is there a reason why you're not just using panel clamps?

-S

[Lilwolf]

I would have used panel clamps... if there was a way of buying multiple of parts that go on the control panel.

I tried using other items in place, but never got them to really stay well.  I considered buying some better ones (ones with springs) but didn't...

[Avery]

I'm doing something with a modular that may work for you.  I'll try to post a pic this weekend.

How about a couple registration pins (to prevent side to side movement) and a couple rare earth magnets.  They should be far enough back from the monitor that you won't have too much of an effect.

[Havok]

Check out Radio Shack if you go the Velcro route - they have a "super-strong" version, that is all plastic, and I have used it on other stuff, it really works well!

[brandon]

How about a combination of registration pins as Lilwolf said and some super strong velcro?  I would think that take care of it.. In fact, I really like that idea.. I think I'll do that when I finally get around to building my cabinet 

[Nannuu]

You can try a piano lock on each side.

[Nannuu]

Ok, having reviewed the cost of the piano lock.  You can use one lock and not two.  Place the single lock on the front, leave the 3/4" guide around the inside of the panel.  But add a pin or rail to the back of the CP.  So when you lower it down in position the pin will slide into a slot holding the back down, then the lock holds the front.  Or it could be some variation of this.  Whatever you can get to hold the back down.  The bad thing about the piano locks is that its hard to slide the panel under rails or something because the lock mech sticks out and would scrape the lower cp.  So you'd want a solution that is only lowers the panel in I think.

[Nannuu]

Or a more simple "lip" that can hold the back down.  Slightly round the back of the panel so it can be slipped under the lip and rotated into the lock.

[AlanS17]

Check out Radio Shack if you go the Velcro route - they have a "super-strong" version, that is all plastic, and I have used it on other stuff, it really works well!

That's the stuff I'm talking about. Rather than using loops and hooks, it uses nubs that interlock. There's absolutely no "play" to them. I can't explain it too well, but it works very well.

[LiquidFire]

I would investigate using the type of latch that keeps trailer storage doors closed. It looks like a coin door lock with a handle instead of a key.

A 90 degree turn could send a latch under the inboard side of your cabinet. Two would be all it would take.

Using a length of thin weatherstrip could help you to get a 'press down & lock' feel to it.

Your front edge might just key into a bracket.

You can get these in chrome and paintable versions at any RV dealer or trailer supply store.

[ScoopKW]

I've considered some of the ideas already.

Being able to simply pick the second panel up -- no keys, no bolts, nothing -- is paramount.

I'm not just building this cab for myself. I want my friends to be able to use it. And I have some friends with no computer experience whatsoever.

Swapping out the secondary panel has to be as easy as installing a game cartridge.

One idea that might work is a cupboard door catch... I'll investigate that and report back.


ScoopKW