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Woodworking Tip - Routers rule!

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Lilwolf:
btw, I stopped using a flat metal ruler a bit ago because it wasn't deep enough... And the edge of my circular saw is slightly rounded.  So if I put a little pressure against the ruler, it would hop up a bit and move in.  I've been using the edge of a 2x4.  Assuming that I have a flat 2x4.  Or I use my level because its long and thick enough... I hope I'm not destroying it though with all the vibrations :)

Avery:
You can get the bestest pattern copying bit you could want for about $30.  Most are much cheaper.

Also, there are two flavors - one with the bearing on top and one on the bottom.  If you used the one with the bearing on top you put your pattern on top and can at least see what you are doing.

Effayy:
I was chatting with a co-worker today who has some skill in cabinetry, and from our conversation I found out exactly what I was doing wrong... Just for future reference for people here, this is what NOT to do:

1. I was correct in setting up my guide on the peice I want to keep, but I made the mistake of standing and setting up my circ on the "keep" side, as well. Which meant that as I progressed across the 25" peice, I wasn't able to follow the circ, and in the end was reaching, which meant no pressure on the grip-hand, only the trigger-hand.  That's not only incredibly bad form, but it's dangerous as well.  If the tool were to snag and pop out, it could've caused some serious damage because there I wasn't in control of the tool.

2. I didn't have the cut-line hanging over the edge of my table (my table is just a scrap MDF peice on 2 workhorses.  That was causing unnecessary friction and making it that much harder to cut

3. Because I had a peice of MDF laminated on one side, I was using the higher tooth-count blade that's specially used for laminate.  While this is good if laminate is ALL you're cutting, it's wrong to use when it's already cemented to the MDF.

So with that one cut, there's 3 lessons learned! :)  That's good news, imo.  The more I can learn from all this, the better off I am when it's time to build the second cabinet!

- FA

ScoopKW:

--- Quote from: Lilwolf on July 29, 2005, 12:36:06 pm ---I would be worried about the price of those little bits.

But does anyone have problems cutting straight lines with a circular saw? 


--- End quote ---

That's simple -- get a speed square. Use the square as a guide to make your cuts. I get 100% perfect cuts every time. They cost about $5. Don't buy a cheap plastic speed square -- aluminum only.

If you use a piece of sacrificial wood clamped to your stock, you won't get any tear-out.  Make sure the depth of your cut is the same as the thickness of your stock, plus 1/8".  If your blade is all the way out, you'll get more tear out.

Naturally, use sharp blades, designed for the material you're cutting. The blades that come with your tools are usually low quality. I call them "cardboard blades" because that's all they're good for. A good carbide-tipped blade will last longer and cut cleaner than steel. Dull cutters lead to (possibly VERY dangerous) problems.

ScoopKW

PS -- Wear eye protection for ALL power tools, or risk playing Pac Man while blind. Think a sander or drill is safe? Think again. Eye protection for EVERYTHING that has an on switch.

Bones:
I am so over my circular saw. It doesn't happen for me either.

I think a lot of the problem is having the confidence to just rip through it. Forceful but controlled. Unfortunately I seem to have neither of these.

I agree, the router is easier for somebody with limited woodworking experience.

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