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Connect everything with 1x1's?
AceTKK:
--- Quote from: pocketz on April 16, 2003, 05:23:25 pm ---im interested in hearing about what kind of new cabinet 1up is designing. if you could please let us know what the general idea and layout of your new cab is. im sure it will be extremely hightech and well built. will it have rotating controls? what kind of games is it designed around?
thanks
-pocketz
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this is a VERY old thread. I'm sure he's referring to Pac-Mamea
-Ace-
Howard_Casto:
--- Quote from: 1UP on July 07, 2002, 08:14:29 pm ---Good to see you back!
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Distortion:
I have made mine so that it is deconstructible using 2x2's. I used machine bolts with finishing washers to distribute the pressure on the MDF and also give the cab a cool industrial kind of look. It's solid as a rock, I have no doubts that this bad boy will last a while.
hedge:
--- Quote from: Jakobud on April 16, 2003, 05:43:45 pm ---I used 2x4's for the internal frame (w/ MDF on the outside). 1x1's are going to be very prone to splitting unless you pre-drill for every single screw. And it will still split on you sometimes after that. Even 2x2's will have that problem. Also, do yourself a favor and get woodglue for every single joint! It increases strength of joints like 10x or something.
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I'm definitely going to pre-drill. But do I also need to pre-drill the MDF - or just the 2x2's?
And when you suggest using woodglue for the joints - I assume you mean using glue everywhere the 2x2's meet the MDF - but am I also supposed to use glue in the areas where the MDF meets the MDF?
MameFan:
I just built some bookcases with oak covered 3/4" MDF ($35 a sheet!!!)
THIS STUFF SPLITS like you won't believe!
*** PRE-DRILL EVERY HOLE -- ESPECIALLY if you are are going into an edge and not the flat surface. *** Also.. keep away from the last 3" before a corner if drilling into an edge.
In creating the bookcase, I used wood dowels and drilled holes for them on all the visible surfaces, but figured I'd save a LOT of time by simply screwing the base into the 4 uprights (it was a 8' wide bookcase with 3 shelf areas), since the base is against the floor.
I was at least smart and pre-drilled all the hole on the base (that I was drilling through the flat surface) and even got a countersink bit to make the screwhead flush. I used 1 5/8" Sheetrock black phosphate screws.
However, I forgot to predrill into the uprights, and after screwing in about half the screws, I paused and could literally hear, for about 5 minutes, the MDF splitting up the edge I screwed into! :'( :-[ >:(
One is really bad and split up about 3" from the edge (only 1" of screw was in it). It's easily 1/16 to 1/8" inch split against the edge. The others are about 1/32nd of an inch wide for about 2" up.
To fix it, I did 2 things... First, on the side that split the worst, it was to be up against a wall, so I was able to drill in the side and then put a short 1/2" screw in and help "pull" it back together. Plus that and all the others, I squeezed as much wood glue in as I could to keep it from splitting more.
Last nite I started nailing on the 1/4" oak backing sheets. Even a super thin nail from a nail gun, (1" nail length) caused the dang MDF to split when nailed dead center in the edge. However it was just a hairline crack running 1/2" either side of the power-driven nail. (The nail wasn't much bigger than a large needle..we're talking small)
So I learned my lesson. The next time I build bookcases, I will either:
- Peg the entire thing or at least pre-drill into the uprights. (and just deal with the nailing doing small splitting)
- Get oak laminated PLYWOOD to build the frame with, and then just use MDF as the moveable shelves (since it doesn't bend as much as plywood when cut with a small depth like a shelf)
Therefore, since I havn't started building my cabinet(s), I have leared a lot from the bookcases. MDF is a great product, but you HAVE to treat it correctly, otherwise it can be much worse than even particle board (heck, it's the same thing, just finer particles)