Arcade Bones (Marquee & Dashboard graphics finalised)

[Bones]

The board I used was black all the way through, so no white edges.

I consciously decided against all black because I thought it would be difficult to mark and harder to see the lines when it came time to cut out the shapes. As it turns out, a pencil mark was quite easy to see on the black so I will remember this for next time.

[ginno]

Great job bones, bezel looks sweet.

Very neat job

cheers.

[vornar]

Damn fine lookin bezel bones

The cash will definitely be better spent on artwork

[Bones]

Very minor works today but for awhile the weather cleared up which gave me the chance to do more sanding and also get a coat of MDF sealer over my CP box. Ignore the thick layer of paint on the edges, this is kind of an "experiment" that I intend on sanding away.

Thanks to a recent link in the software forum (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=46531.0), I was also able to make a simple themed boot screen.



I have been on holidays for the last three weeks and tomorrow is officially my last day but I will be spending it with Mistasmiff drinking Guinness in Sydney and gorging myself on filthy tucker from Chinatown..

I would have liked to have gotten my baby all finished before holidays end, but I am close. However, it will mostly be back to weekly updates from this moment forward.

[DrewKaree]

Thanks to a recent link in the software forum (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=46531.0), I was also able to make a simple themed boot screen.

I think the boot screen is wicked cool for your cab, but making a few minor changes will make it seem even MORE "arcade specific".  I propose the following:

Change the blue progress bar to black to make it "invisible" and remove or change the text underneath the progress bar from white to black.

That way, it'll look like one of those "FBI" screens or something, and less like Windows - now you need MameWah and a custom skin for that too!

[Bones]

The boot screen is rough, it was just a first attempt while learning how to change the bootskin. I am sure the boot image will change before I consider the cabinet "finished".

It pretty much goes without saying I want to run MameWah in there with a Last Stand invader image, I just haven't dedicated the time yet to learn the program. Buying printer paper so I could print the MameWah documentation would be a fine start though......

[DrewKaree]

Buying printer paper so I could print the MameWah documentation would be a fine start though......

oooh oooh!  Here's what we'll do, we'll combine our resources and evil plots!  Gimme your address, I'll ship you the paper, you learn everything, and then create MY MameWah stuff too, and then when Mrs Bones comes to visit, she can hand deliver it and show me how to install it and whatnot.  Emphasis on whatnot

[Bones]

Originally I was just going to rely on hot air rising out of a gap I left at the top of the cab. See diagram.


But a few weeks ago I changed my mind and decided my monitor should have all the protection it can from the hot Aussie summers so I purchased two 12volt 120mm fans that should help generate some airflow.

Today I mounted the two fans. The plan was to mount them onto one of the back panels that is completely removable and held in place by T-nuts. Because this panel is removable I really wanted to avoid having to unplug cords when the panel is removed so I came up with a way to do it with aluminium foil but was advised against it in the main forum. Aluminium foil link

After a long search and failing to find something suitable at the electronics shops I decided to just wire the fans in the traditional manner with a long cord that can reach some distance from the cabinet when the panel is removed.

The fan grills are actually speaker grills I seen today while I was out looking. They cost $4.00ea and I think they look OK. They came with a black ring to hide the edges of the metal mesh which I removed. I might try them on and see how they look.

Don't know why the black paint looks so crappy.....the flash seems to show things I can't see in person.

[Bones]

I also did some soul searching today regarding the mounting of the stuff inside the cab which includes the PC, monitor isolation transformer, 12volt power supply & subwoofer.

I have decided to  mount the PC in the same fashion as per Project Arcade. I will also screw the monitor isolation transformer down into the cabinet floor.

The subwoofer and 12volt transformer I will just leave sitting in place. If for any reason the cab has to be moved or laid over, I am prepared to remove all the inside components.

I hope to have the innards mounted one night this week. (No more daytime cab building, my three week holiday is over and it's back to work tomorrow.  All I needed was another week and I would be finished )

[miles2912]

OK, I will bite.  While I am very familiar with Guiness I have NO clue what 'Filthy Tucker' from Chinatown is.  I hope it isn't something you need penecillin for 

Don


I have been on holidays for the last three weeks and tomorrow is officially my last day but I will be spending it with Mistasmiff drinking Guinness in Sydney and gorging myself on filthy tucker from Chinatown..
\

[Bones]

OK, I will bite.  While I am very familiar with Guiness I have NO clue what 'Filthy Tucker' from Chinatown is.  I hope it isn't something you need penecillin for 

Sometimes penicillin may be required if you get some really filthy tucker.

[Bones]

you mean we are going to have to read through 15 pages or more AGAIN? 

Can you guess how many, and what finger/s I am holding up right now? 

Go pick on Pixel....!

[DrewKaree]

Can you guess how many, and what finger/s I am holding up right now? 

Go pick on Pixel....!

Oh sure!  You tell me you're using sign language to tell ME I'm #1, then you go throwing it at Danny too.  I'm starting to believe your version of the #1 in sign language doesn't mean what you think it means

[Ed_McCarron]

OK, I will bite.  While I am very familiar with Guiness I have NO clue what 'Filthy Tucker' from Chinatown is.  I hope it isn't something you need penecillin for 

Don

http://www.koalanet.com.au/australian-slang.html

Found this site helpful.  It's like a dictionary for that side of the world.

[c64rulez]

You must know by now people are relying heavily on your progress. What's with the strike ?
BTW, orange was exactly my choice (though its still sealed in the can).
Excellent color

[Bones]

Had a pretty busy day today as construction on my cab enters its final days

[Bones]

This nifty little tool turns a standard drill into a right angle drill. I was still unable to drill both holes required but I was able to drill one with no problems. I won

[Bones]

I purchased an extension cord and a switch. I cut the cord in the middle and a work buddy wired up the 240 volt switch for me. I was watching him and it really was a simple thing to wire but I don

[Bones]

I gave the tinted glass a good clean and installed it along with the bezel, dashboard and marquee speakers. These are now permanently in place.

Next up I decided to mount the coffin. This still needs to be painted with the shiny stuff but I have decided to paint it in place. It has just been too hot here to paint. The paint is literally drying in 20 seconds and it is making it tough to get a good finish. I mounted the box because I have hopes of applying a first shiny coat tonight when it cools down. If I waited until it was fully painted I would have had to wait until next weekend. I just have to be very careful now not to make a mess

[Bones]

The PC has now been mounted as per the Project Arcade method. Monitor isolation transformer has been screwed down. Subwoofer and a small 12 volt transformer will just sit in place, I figure they can

[Bones]

I am hoping to pretty much have the cab finished in the next couple of days. I have a few hours worth of soldering and painting still to be done though.....

However, I have still not 100% finalised my marquee design so this may hold things up a little. Currently my choice of marquee is the following pic with a few minor changes (mainly the return of yellow writing instead of the orange and a few spacing issues).

When I am finally happy with my design I should be able to get it printed within a couple of days.

* Edit... Oh yeah, I was a little eager with this comment.

I have a few hours worth of soldering and painting still to be done though.....

I still have a bit to do. 
-Mount on/off switch under control panel
-Cut and fit marquee Lexan
-Wire coin door and fit barrel locks
-Wire dashboard speakers.
-Fit coin tin.
-More work on dashboard cover
-Install T-molding.

[Bones]

You must know by now people are relying heavily on your progress. What's with the strike ?

There ya go, an update! 

[tommy]

At first look at that orange paint i didn't think it looked very good... after looking at it awhile it looks good and seems to fit.

[missioncontrol]

i have got to post a picture of my bright yellow cabinet. I for one am glad it's not another boring black cabinet

[c64rulez]

The force is strong with you man. Such dedication and commitment to the forum must not go unforseen.
There's gotta be some kinda award

[markrvp]

Lookin good Bones.  I can remember thinking you would never accept your CP with the mitre cuts, much less build the whole cabinet.  Cheers to you!

[spriggy]

Lookin good Bones.

[Bones]

Lookin good Bones.  I can remember thinking you would never accept your CP with the mitre cuts, much less build the whole cabinet.  Cheers to you!

Hey thanks. I have developed some woodworking skills since starting this project but without my wonderful dropsaw I don't think this baby would have ever progressed beyond scrap wood.

[Bones]

Today I finished soldering all the audio wires and tidied-up the remaining wiring inside the cabinet. Also wired up the coin doors and installed the extended PC pn/off switch. I used a leftover arcade button for this switch.

[Bones]

Put control panel into place and gave Alyssa a test run....

[Bones]

From here on in (until marquee and sideart are done), I have a few minor issues to work through.

I had not budgeted for the thickness of the t-molding on the rear of the control panel. This is making it difficult to lift the control panel in and out and I suspect it is not sitting completely flush with the coffin. I need to fine tune this area.

Also another immediate concern is that when I plug in the coin doors it is disabling the P1 & P2 start buttons on the CP. I can register a credit using the coin slot, but not with the the CP buttons. When the coin door is unplugged the CP P1 & P2 buttons then work.....

But right now, well it is time for a beer or nine.

[Bones]

Heh. Neighbours just came over to check it out and we had our first 4 player game. Was pretty cool! 

[spuddybuddy]

That CP is huge!!!

[Bones]

That CP is huge!!!

Really? First time anyone has noticed.....

[DrewKaree]

That CP is huge!!!

The DICKENS you say!?!?! 

Seems as if you've got more posts than posts read 

[DrewKaree]

And Bones, whatever you do, don't tell him there's a bigger CP out there

[Bones]

Haven't been able to work on the cab recently as I have been busy playing Rygar! I am really digging my cab, it is such a cool thing to have. I have played it every day since the control panel was plugged in.

But... This week I did make some effort. Through a company I deal with at work (being a purchasing officer has its perks), I sent off some plans for Lexan sizes I needed cut & supplied. The dude has a CNC lathe and his business is plastics engineering. I wanted my dashboard Lexan to have a slight corner radius which I could not achieve with my own tools.

At the same time I gave him my required marquee sizes. I still have Lexan leftover but it is a bit scratched up so I decided not to use it. Besides, I just spent a whole weekend cleaning my garage.

The dashboard setup will consist of a top 3mm layer of Lexan where the corners and edges have been slightly rounded, then I will have an instruction card or the cabinet logo or some other artwork, then a 6mm piece of Lexan the same size as the top part, and finally.....A small piece of Lexan to spigot the assembly into the dashboard access panel.

Confused? Refer Pics. In the photo you can see the approximate position of the dashboard Lexan sitting on top of the vinyl.

I will have to use screws to hold the pieces together and I see no way I can do this without them being exposed. I have decided to countersink and screw from underneath and dress the top with some shiny acorn nuts. Rather than try and conceal these nuts, I might try and bring them into the artwork so they don't look terribly out of place.

I have not completely dismissed the idea of back lighting this section. I need to check it won't cause any glare on the monitor and then make a decision. I envisage the artwork will be a few images and text on a black background so all I really want is a subtle glow. I am even thinking the clustered LED's might be suitable..... More thought required here.

For anyone interested, I asked the CNC dude how he holds such small pieces for machining. He explained the CNC bed is a giant vacuum with little holes that suck down the workpiece. No clamps required! Cool....

Best of all I got the work done free of charge!  Big thanks to Aiden from Starwheel Manufacturing.

[Pixelhugger]

WOW! Very cool. That's a lot like what I've been planning on for the instructional marquee on my cab. Here is a sketch of how I'm approaching it to hide the bolt heads.

[Bones]

Hey that's a pretty cool suggestion/design and I notice your photoshop skills are just slightly better than mine......

[Santoro]

Sorry to hijack Bones,

Pixel, why not just screw into the wood from the bottom?