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Landscaping Advice Needed...
ChadTower:
Definitely make sure to account for soil settling. Last year I took a pickaxe and a 12 pack to one of my driveways, dug up the sand with a shovel and wheelbarrow... put down 4 yards of soil and then covered it with nice sod. It looked like a million bucks.
Then the soil settled and now it's 2" lower than it was and it collects water whenever it rains. I have to pull up all of the grass in strips and put down another 3 or so yards of soil.
Don't make that mistake.
Jabba:
Hey Drew/Chad, thanks for the replies...
Thanks to missioncontrol's link on google maps, I was able to drill down to my property. It is in the pic below.
Drew: The arrow in the picture is pointing to a big brown splotch. This is the area I am considering landscaping. Given the fact that the property is 2 acres, I estimate that the land I need to landscape is a little more than a qarter of an acre. Do you agree? Based on that, how much soil do you think I would need?
Thanks for the pointers on differences between the Harley Rake and the Landscape Rake. Looks to me that what I was shown was a Landscape Rake for the skidsteer. It attaches to the skidsteer. Kinda makes sense when you put it that way, I guess it would be easier if you could see what you were working on...
The $185/day was for for the Landscape Rake for the skidsteer.
DrewKaree:
--- Quote from: Jabba on April 06, 2005, 05:10:57 pm ---This is the area I am considering landscaping. Given the fact that the property is 2 acres, I estimate that the land I need to landscape is a little more than a qarter of an acre. Do you agree? Based on that, how much soil do you think I would need?
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I'm gonna try to DL that picture and take a better look. I just took a cursory look before replying to this. I'll drop you a PM with what I'm thinkin'.
--- Quote ---Thanks for the pointers on differences between the Harley Rake and the Landscape Rake. Looks to me that what I was shown was a Landscape Rake for the skidsteer. It attaches to the skidsteer. Kinda makes sense when you put it that way, I guess it would be easier if you could see what you were working on...
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Yeah, the landscape rake/rock hound usually has a different ground-beating attachment as well, it's hard to explain what it looks like, but kinda picture a farmer's rake thingy....it almost ALWAYS takes more passes to get an area "cleaner" with a rock hound, or else you're spending more time to do it to get the same job done, which meant the harley rake worked faster. I'd just check around....mebbe harley rakes are in scarce supply around there, which means you'll have to use what they got, but if you can find a harley rake, don't let 'em tell you they're the same thing. They CLEARLY aren't, as you can now tell ;)
--- Quote ---The $185/day was for for the Landscape Rake for the skidsteer. I'll see how much it is to rent the hand rake you suggested at HD. I may even end up buying one if there is not THAT much of a price difference.
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Dunno how much HD sells 'em for, but they ARE pricey for a rake. Well worth the price, though. Some things to look for when purchasing that rake - see the side supports coming from higher up the handle attaching to the rake head? See if those bolt in or not. Not vital, but makes it easier to replace that piece instead of the whole rake, and that's USUALLY where we have problems with them busting (although running over them and flattening them is the #1 issue with guys who don't think to set their rake OUT of their work area ::) ) Also, if there's one that's got all that nice padding/foam on the handgrips and there's one without, buy the one without. Get some of that rubberizing dip and use that instead. You can paint it on the lower hand area as well, and the rubber won't fall apart as easily as the foam crap - they'll also prolly price it higher....enough that your savings for the bare nekkid one will pay for the rubber dip.
--- Quote ---Sounds like next month is when this whole thing will begin. Ground should be dryer by then (pleas Lord, no more snow :laugh:)I like the idea of extra seeding in the fall (prolly with a covering of extra soil).
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I wouldn't seed later than the first week of next month, if that's your plan. Plan to start this in a few weeks, late March/early April is the best time to seed, but up der in da Great White Nort dat's prolly aboot right ;) I wouldn't go more than a week and a half into May, though.
--- Quote ---Chad: Thanks for the Tip. The land has been settled for a year and a halk now. Hopefully she won't sink...
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You gotta remember the stuff you're putting on is gonna settle too, though. The topsoil will have been dug up and not part of your established yard, that's why earlier I mentioned topdressing (I believe I did, anyhoo, shoot me if I didn't ;) ) the next season or so...prolly with straight compost instead of topsoil (the compost will be "airier" and won't compact your new grass as much, and it'll benefit the growth of your new grass)
DrewKaree:
I called my brother-in-law, and my calculations are way off. I was forgetting ONE figure, and when you're dealing in CUBIC measurements, that one figure screws EVERYTHING up :-\ You're looking for something more in the 100 yard range if that's a quarter acre
I'm gonna see him on Friday, so I'll show him your picture then.
In re-reading my post, you MAY wish to wait until fall to do this. IIRC, you ARE in Canada, and you'll prolly have cool weather grass mixes available to you, which obviously will do better in cool weather. They WILL germinate now, but waiting until next month will reduce the germination rate. If you can't do it within the next two weeks, wait until fall so you aren't throwing more money towards buying more seed in fall.
Fall will mean LATE August/September-ish so you can plan it.
I'll get you the figures on Friday...my 10-15 yards are WAAAAAYYYYYY off.
If you can measurestimateTM the length and width, that'll make this a bit more precise....I never knew he formulized it!
ChadTower:
The problem is always the Germins.