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| GadgetGeek:
just a thought...instead of recutting your target, maybe cut a couple circles to plug the 100s from underneath. Then if you change your mind in the future, you can just drop out the plugs. |
| Ixliam:
Well, I was pretty tired when I posted that message, and I do have something to block those holes with (they are blocked now. Perhaps I can overlay something to cover up my "mousehole" that I cut out (which is the main reason I wanted to recut another one. I do have the pieces I cut, so maybe some woodglue, a screwed in backing, and elbow grease will fix it. I plan on recovering the board with something else anyway as that surfacing doesn't cushion impact as well as it should. It will work well on the ramp, just not on the target. Brad |
| Ixliam:
I ended up blocking the 100 rings off and patching back the piece I removed when I cut the "mousehole" last night. I took the side off the ball return/feed and moved the entire track down, about 2". What I did end up doing is instead of using a board as a track, I used 1x2's on each side, which left a nice open section in the middle where the ball stop lever could fit. I had to rework it as well. Without having that board there I instantly gained 3/4" as well. I also got in my 3" wood balls from Van Dykes today. VERY VERY NICE I must say. 10 of them for $34.99, not bad when you consider skeeballs are being sold for about $7-10 on e-bay. They are natural color, so a good dark stain will give them a nice skeeball appearance. I'll post pictures later tonight.. Brad |
| Ixliam:
Here are the pics of todays work. I now have a working ball return make from black plastic (same strength/thickness as the white score rings I have). I used a heat gun and formed it to shape, so that make it very easy to use and much better than using wood. It is rather loud when the wood balls hit it, however. Brad |
| MinerAl:
If you fill in the space behind the black plastic with expanding foam, or some other insulator, it might reduce the volume of the ball hitting it. |
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