Author Topic: Skee-Ball (Read 65781 times)

usedelectronics · « **Reply #40 on:** December 30, 2004, 07:25:03 pm »

Honestly, I don't think building one of these would be that difficult.
Looking at unclet's pictures, the overall construction is painfully simple, and there doesn't seem to be anything particularly complicated.
The worst part would be the ramp, and replicating the metal coin/ticket dispenser covers.

I imagine instead of screwing with the large LED displays, you could replace them with a small flatscreen monitor, and just use a simple piece of software to keep score and make the appropriate noises.

missioncontrol · « **Reply #41 on:** December 30, 2004, 07:27:09 pm »

go for it.........can't wait to see the documentation of it and the work in progress........keep us posted on how it's going......

good luck

missioncontrol · « **Reply #42 on:** December 30, 2004, 07:30:57 pm »

Quote from: usedelectronics on December 30, 2004, 07:25:03 pm

I imagine instead of screwing with the large LED displays, you could replace them with a small flatscreen monitor, and just use a simple piece of software to keep score and make the appropriate noises.

I say go with the LED display for authenticity also i'm sure you can find some kind of electronic buzzer/bell to go off at the appropiate time...

Ixliam · « **Reply #43 on:** December 30, 2004, 08:31:11 pm »

Its not even a real LED, and I have purchased an original skee-ball Model H score and ball count cover. What it looks like is a red plastic front, then molded plastic hollow sections that a lightbulb goes in. When you score, it turns the various bulbs on. Though it looks like an LED, it is actually not one. Price-wise for me, the cost was within $2 of each other. I decided to go with the original bulb style instead of modernizing it with a 5" 7 segment LED. The circuit I have will work for either one, just have to make sure you get the +/- correct on the LED or else you will smoke it. With bulbs, it doesn't matter.

Bending metal, even stiff metal is not difficult. Easy way without much equipment is to put it over something round, and bend it. I used to be involved in medieval reenactment, and we made our own armor from 14 and 16 gauge steel. Its not too difficult, you just have to work with it to get the hang of it. But putting a curve in a flat piece is easy. I figure if I can make gorgets, articulated knee and elbow armor, I can probably curve some metal plate. Look up how to make roman lorica and you can probably find some information on metal working with simple tools as far as doing the curves.

I've got the large side panels of the scoring section cut already, along with the scoring rings and top panels for the ball chute.

Brad

unclet · « **Reply #44 on:** December 30, 2004, 08:39:49 pm »

My kid is sleeping now .... and was actually starting to feel better (crossing my fingers and wishing for a sleepful night)........

Ok, here is what I have for you. I cut this wooden shape twice (based on a construction paper cutout I did earlier) and this was the best one. There is obviously a gap at the bottom. The center of the gap should have an extra 1/4" added on and the outer parts of the gap should have an 1/8" added (I labelled these areas)..... I think it is self-explanatory. I do not think this will be a big deal since the overall shape of the curve is pretty much well documented for you and also the ends of the wooden shape I cut out are flush on the rolling surface. Basically, you should be able to eye ball the level-ness of the rolling surface while using the wooden shape even though the gap exists ..... did that make sense (or am I rambling).

Also, I took other various digital pictures of the wooden shape while it was on my SkeeBall machine so I can email those to you instead of posting them all here. Basically, close ups and different angles.....

If you think this will help you out, then email me your shipping address and I can ship it out on Monday (if I can find a box to pack it in nicely).

my email ==> emailAddrRemoved

Ixliam · « **Reply #45 on:** December 30, 2004, 08:47:00 pm »

I have a better one for you, and much easier. Lay it down on the floor with a ruler up top. Then take a closeup picture of it. Make sure it is straight down so you get a nice overhead shot. With that, I can pull it into AutoCAD and trace it exactly as you have it. You can e-mail the pic full size directly to me at ixlaim@comcast.**REMOVETHIS**net. I did that with an online side-shot of a skeeball machine and your measurments you sent me were within 1/16" of what I had.

Brad

unclet · « **Reply #46 on:** December 30, 2004, 09:12:41 pm »

Ok, I sent you three fullsize pictures....with a ruler.

I attached two of the pictures (at a reduced size) below so you can see what is coming....

Good Luck

unclet · « **Reply #47 on:** December 30, 2004, 10:02:59 pm »

My emails are getting rejected ..... even an email which I simply had text (ie: no file attachments..) ...... although I did get your email.

Anyway, I noticed the email you sent me was from a different email address (ie: starting with a 'w') ..... I will retry sending the pics to you again using this new email address..... Let me know if you get anything soon.

Ixliam · « **Reply #48 on:** December 30, 2004, 10:38:11 pm »

Got it, and that works out great. Most of the major pieces are cut out now. I'm going to try to get the major pieces cut out tonight, then start putting them together tomorrow. Do know one thing, I will sleep good tonight!

Brad

Ixliam · « **Reply #49 on:** December 31, 2004, 12:48:56 am »

If your interested, my Autocad 2000 DWG file, a DWF (viewable with free Autocad DWF viewer), Unclet's pics along with a good pit of other pics I found I have put on my website at *** FILE REMOVED ***.

All the major parts are now cut out save for the top of the scoreboard part, and the target board. I'll post pics of the progress tomorrow.

Brad

usedelectronics · « **Reply #50 on:** December 31, 2004, 01:35:07 am »

Your link doesn't work.

Ixliam · « **Reply #51 on:** December 31, 2004, 08:49:31 am »

*** FILE REMOVED ***

I didn't notice I had used my space up on the other account.

Brad

Ixliam · « **Reply #52 on:** December 31, 2004, 05:46:29 pm »

I'm going to move this over to the project section now.

Moved to:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,29727.0.html

Brad

Ixliam · « **Reply #53 on:** January 12, 2005, 06:22:50 am »

If anyone has any questions on my project or the skeeball construction in general, please feel free to ask. I thought I would unlock this again just to keep the discussion on general skeeball things going now that the project is moving along well.

Brad

oldsledworks · « **Reply #54 on:** January 14, 2005, 04:09:54 pm »

Hi:

I'm new to the group.

I operate an old arcade in Pennsylvania. I have over 60 vintage machines with a few early Skee-balls in it. They are completely mechanical from 50's and 60's.

I'm looking for a part called a "Quad Gear". It's probably the most frequently replaced part on these old machines... because they took a lot of abuse and were made out of junky metal.

It's located in the scoring unit and it controls the rotation of the score when game is reset. A few teeth break on it almost always in the same spot. I know..I have several broken quad gears with identical missing teeth. When that happens, the scoring unit will not stop at zero when reset.

It the grand scheme of things, not an important thing in life. But I'd like to find some replacements maybe sitting around somewhere and fix the machine correctly. Skee-Ball, Inc. does not have. Believe me, I've tried.

Can someone help?

Thanks,
Jimmy Rosen
Old Sled Works
Duncannon, PA
717-834-9333
www.sledworks.com

JackTucky · « **Reply #55 on:** January 14, 2005, 04:42:54 pm »

I had a similar problem with a part from my shuffle alley. had to pay a machine shop to make me 2, but better than having it broken. I guess you've tried that too?

Art

stevejt · « **Reply #56 on:** January 14, 2005, 07:25:57 pm »

Quote

I'm looking for a part called a "Quad Gear". It's probably the most frequently replaced part on these old machines... because they took a lot of abuse and were made out of junky metal.

Have a pic of one?

unclet · « **Reply #57 on:** January 14, 2005, 07:56:01 pm »

Try to get a part number from SkeeBall Inc. then contact www.betson.com since they usually store old SkeeBall parts.

Ixliam · « **Reply #58 on:** January 14, 2005, 09:33:33 pm »

If you end up needing one made, might try some of the hobbyist clock builders. Those folks make all kinds of gears and such, and you may find someone local that could crank it out for you... maybe for the price of a 6 pack.

Brad

hammyysu · « **Reply #59 on:** December 03, 2008, 06:10:19 pm »

i have been following the progress of the skee ball build and i have started to plan every thing out and i was looking through the plans i have and i just relized that i have no dimensions for the ball ramp. does anyone have those dimensions for me? thanks

justtaint · « **Reply #60 on:** December 09, 2008, 02:18:59 pm »

You might have better luck asking on another thread, this one was over 4 years old.


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