Skee-Ball

[Ixliam]

Anyone have any information on building your own skee-ball machine ?  I've seen a few off-brand ones with basic digital counters for scoring. Wondered if anyone had attempted this in any form.

Brad

[Tritoch84]

I was just about to start the same thread! I for one am highly interested in this!

[paigeoliver]

Someone else was looking into this on KLOV.com, and essentially it is MUCH more expensive to build one than it is to buy one.

[Ixliam]

I really wouldn't think it would be too difficult. I'm not talking about being an exact replica, but a basic model with a 10' track, and 50/40/30/20/10 scoring.

The curved part that throws the ball up could be built by curving thin plywood (old medieval technique). What you do is take  layers of thin plywood, soak with water (making it flexible). Using this heavy duty wood glue (used for boatbuilding) glue the two parts together and nail/screw to a form. For the form, build like some mini-steps out of 1x2's, 2x4, etc on another piece of plywood scrap. Nail one part of the plywood to the flat base, the other section to the steps to give it the curve. The wood will flex being wet, and the glue will set, keeping that curve.

The other option would be to build the steps/angled part from wood, and make the curve with bondo. Probably much easier and quicker. The ball return could be a simple piece of large cheap PVC cut in half right below the holes, then running down to the bottom where a small square box to hold the balls would be.

Scoring could be done with either some type of simple circuit or a custom program running on an old crappy machine, like a 286. You wouldn't need much horsepower to do it.

The rings where the balls hit could be made from a sheet of plastic or old juice/food barrels. Use a heatgun to shape.




Just a thought...

Brad

[missioncontrol]

someone posted a BYO skeet ball a while back...I don't know if they ever got done with it or not........

this might help:

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,19796.0.html

[unclet]

I have a Skeeball machine which I bought and fixed up for a total of $600.   Sometimes the local arcade auctions have these machines for even cheaper.

Check out all the pictures of my SkeeBall machine at my website.....

http://unclet.arcadecontrols.com

Here is one pic:

[Pieman2004]

I was just wanting to suggest metal to make the curved area. It seems like it would be a lot eaiser to do than the bondo or the plywood.

[GGKoul]

Here's some Skee-Ball wiring on sale on Ebay.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=13718&item=6141871082&rd=1

[Ixliam]

I've been digging around on this for a few days and I think I'm going to give it a shot. I have access to some interesting materials that end up as scrap at the office, and I have a circuit for the scoring mechanism.

The circuit will run a 7 segment LED. Looking at how they score on a 3 digit display, the first digit (right side) is always 0. You then use this circuit to display the tens and hundreds. Just attach another circuit for the hundreds and tie in the reset to a start button.

http://www.aaroncake.net/circuits/counter.htm

You could then have it trip some type of bell/whistle when you put a ball in the right hole, maybe a flashing light when you hit 450.

As far as making one, I have scrap thin white plastic that can be curved into the target rings, and I will probably do they same with the curved ramp. I haven't decided on how I want the ball return to work.

You could go with the original look, and have it spit the balls into the chute. Or you could decide that this is for home use, and just have it spit it to a collection box of some sort at the end of the ramp. Another option would be to run a tube under the right side, have it feed the balls from there.

Ball-wise, I found wooden 3" balls online from wood shops. I ordered 10 of them @ $35, so I will let you know how they work out.

Not sure who here might be interested in this and is in Georgia, but your welcome to contact me if you want to assist in anything, or stand around and laugh.

Brad

[usedelectronics]

Has anyone taken measurements of one of these things yet?

[RandyT]

Has anyone taken measurements of one of these things yet?

I've been waiting for this too!  Somebody please take a tape measure to one of these things

Also, does anyone know what the rings are made out of?  I have a funny feeling they are from a custom/expensive material.  They are pretty soft, almost a white rubber.  I'd expect a harder material to be rough on the balls/gameplay.

RandyT

[sasuke_kun12]

want to save money? just use pipes as rings for the smaller ones!

[unclet]

The circular white tubes are actually made by GoodYear especially for SkeeBall Inc.   They are basically white walled tires ... except that the "white wall" completely surrounds the rubber.  The circle is held together by metal and screws.

The "brown-ish" or "tan-ish" carpet located on the rolling surface (and also behind the target holes) is actually a cork board which is made overseas and imported especially for SkeeBall Inc.    Last time I looked you could buy brand new cork "carpet" from SkeeBall Inc. for around $150.   You simply put your adhesive glue down (contact cement ... not sure??) and roll out the carpet and then use a roller with pressure for good adhesion.

If you are interested in seeing what the inside of a classic SkeeBall machine looks like, then you can check out the pictures of my machine at my site:

http://unclet.arcadecontrols.com

I still believe you would appreciate a real classic SkeeBall machine rather than building your own.  You can get them from between $400 and $800 if you call you local dealers and see what they have (assuming you pick it up yourself).   You can even find cheaper ones at auctions some times.....   Of course, if building one gives you a great sense of fullfillment, then I would be wrong   
I would just think the final feel, play and look would not compare to a real classic.  Just my two cents. 

If you are going to go through with this, then let me know if you need any help.

[Ixliam]

For those in New Hamshire, I saw this in a Yahoo Group. Too bad it is 1200 miles from me.

---- Quote ----
Hey Folks,  A friend of mine is selling some Skee-ball lanes. They are Skee-Ball Model H, which are the yellow and red lanes with the large digital numbers. All of them are complete and worked when removed form the Salem Willows Arcade last week. $400 each and must be picked up in Pelham NH. Anyone interested call Tom, (603) 635-7495
---- Quote ----

Before I get 100% started, I am going to try to locate one locally. If I managed to get one, I would replace the ticket dispenser with a LED counter so that instead of tickets, it would just run a digital counter. Least at this point I will have the parts for it.

Brad

[unclet]

I think you are a wise man .....

[Ixliam]

Thanks for the dimensions, too bad I'm having better luck here than actually find a machine that's not around $2200. That's the only ones I have found nearby. Georgia seems to be empty when it comes to any sort of arcade goodies.

I have drawn up basic cad plans based on a sketch I did and the dimensions you have. Looks like for the basic frame it would take two sheets of wood. That would cover the sides and the ball box/ticket holder, along with the bottom support. That does not include the ramp. So guessing, 3 sheets of 4x8 would do it, along with the 1x2/2x4s for a support frame. Seems to me about as much there as for an arcade cabinet, there is just not anyone actually building these things as a hobbyists.

Course, I would still love to find one nearby in the SE US. The ones I've found fall into either the TOO FAR AWAY category, or TOO EXPENSIVE category.

If anyone has Autocad or access to it, or can view DXF files, I can send you what I have so far.

Brad

[unclet]

Where are you located in Georgia (?)

[Ixliam]

I'm in Austell. If you like, contact me off-list at ixliam <$AT$> com**REMOVETHIS**cast }}dot{{ net.

Sorry for the crazy email format above, but you know how spammers are.

Brad

[unclet]

Guess I could just send you a PM in this forum instead .......

Seems like there should be plenty of SkeeBall machines in a big city like Atlanta.

[Ixliam]

The plastic I have is pretty flexible, I can bend/twist it with one hand, and it takes a good beating. Plus, its free. I actually just walked back to where our shop is and they have more scrap back there, so I will probably at least try to make the target area so I can get those pieces cut out (they will cut them for me on nice pro equipment that we use to build tradeshow exhibits). I did see some cork flooring online but didn't go any further than google-ing it. It came in 2'x3' sheets, probably for tackboards. But something absorbant might not be a bad idea.

I don't have any kids so no need to worry about someone chunking a ball at it. This is mostly for me and my wife, and the occasional visit from parents/in-laws/brother. If I wanted to go the cheap way, Sears has a Harvard Roll-Ball thing that is on sale for $179. It looks like the picture I posted above of the Skee-Ball looking thing.

Brad

[unclet]

Just be careful is you use real corkboard, since a big wooden ball will dent that as well ..... just would not want you to go through all the work of building and then discover your rolling surface is all dented up.


PS:  You have been outbid

[Ixliam]

What is the height on the rubber targets ? I'm guessing 3.5-4" just looking at the pictures.

What am I outbid on, that empty display on e-bay ??

On that display, I know the older ones used lights behind a fake LED looking scoring unit. Any idea what kind of light holder fit in there. I'm really torn between getting an original display and putting incandescent lights in it, or going modern and using a large LED. Price-wise, its about the same. 3-5" LED for the main score, and 1-2.3" LED display for the balls rolled counter.

Brad

[unclet]

Rubber target height is 4"

Yes I saw you were outbid on the SkeeBall score display thing.

What do you mean light holder?  Do you mean light bulbs?

[Ixliam]

It looks like from the light holder that a bulb in some sort of fitting goes in with a twist type of connector, similar to how some cars bulbs go in tail lights (least on my Toyota Corolla they do since I access them from the trunk). I'd guess it has a plastic bulb holder with two plastic flanges coming off it with a rubber/foam gasket to act as a seal and to put pressure on the connection to keep it from wiggling loose.

Glad I was outbid on that thing. I saw where it has those grey scratches/chunks out of it. With the rate it is going at, I could go with an modern large LED display and not have to worry with the bulbs. Only addition to my circuit would be a darlington driver chip so that the output from the CMOS lines would switch the 9 volt supply to the LED segment, since the ones I am looking at pull more power since each segment had 4 LED's behind it according to the specs on the display. Even if I went with the bulbs and used small wattage 12 volt bulbs, it would still need the darlington to switch. Not sure what skee-balls had at one time in them to turn on the displays, but trying to use relays would be too slow, whereas transistor switching is much faster.

Brad

[Ixliam]

Can you give me the dimensions from the top down to the ramp every 1' as I have below ? This is my estimate.



Here is my marque I did.



I picked up an 2'x8' roll of cork from a local hobby store. Once a ramp is made I will be able to test it out. From what I gathered online, there is cork flooring available, some as underlayers used. If the cork in that use can take people walking over it, I'm sure it could handle a 1lb ball rolling along..

Brad

Brad

[unclet]

I will try to post something tomorrow for you .......

[unclet]

Here are some more measurements ...... hope this clarifies some stuff.

[Ixliam]

That really helps a great deal. I did find some skee balls in Indiana, but they want $1000 working as-is, or $1600 if the fellow cleans it up to like-new condition.

There are two in Texas on e-bay now, a 10' and a 13' model. The 10' is already up past $500. I cut out the ramp today, I am doing it with heavy lexan (more scrap from the office). I will have more support braces under the ramp, enough so you could walk across the ramp if you wanted to (but don't plan on it). I will be making it out of 3/4" MDF, which I have yet to purchase in the no-so-likely hope that someone will suddenly offer me one at a reasonable (aka cheap) price. I'm willing to drive to get it, but not 1100 miles one-way (which is where the cheapest one is so far). If you flew up there, rented a truck, then drove back, you are already pushing the price up to the $1000 mark, not counting blowing vacation time at home.

At this point I'm ready just to build one for not only the experience and gratification of saying "I built my own skeeball", but also since there is a good amount of interest I can document how it can be done. Your help in getting info and measurements has been invaluable, and I greatly appreciate it.

Brad