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| attaching tmolding to badly routed grooves |
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| solfood:
I'm actually relieved that someone else used a Sharpie at some point in their cabinets construction... |
| the3eyedblindman:
When my blade got dull, it made a few parts of my slot too thick, so what I did was used a high strength adhesive, applied it to the molding, layed it in, and then just used scotch tape to hold it together while it dryed. After a day or so just peel the tape off, worked like a charm. |
| NoOne=NBA=:
I had a couple spots that I used foam tape on, and banged that into the slot with the molding, and a few inside curves that I used epoxy on. Both methods worked really well, but I wouldn't want to take it apart, and see if I could get it back together again. |
| mahuti:
There's one product that works amazing for this kind of stuff. It's a thin metal mesh with pretty sharp teeth. It's specifically made to help insert something into a stripped hole. You put the mesh in, then shove in your t-molding in, and it won't wan't to let go. It only comes in packs of small strips (about 1" by 4") It's easily cut to suit. |
| Knievel:
I've never tried this but I think an easy solution would be to run tape over the spine of the t-mold and then hammer it in. Fold it over each side equally if you get my drift. I think electrical tape would work best as it's somewhat rubbery and would probably provide some grip. This would widen the spine and make up for a t-mold groove that's too big. If it works the advantages would be - no mess/cheap/easy/you could easily remove it in the future. |
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