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Pro and Cons of using laminate
NIVO:
Bosch makes a 7 degree bit perfect for that edge of laminate, blends the edge well into the t-mold. I bought one from lowe's, cant recall how much it was by i seem to recall it was under $10
thrash242:
It's spelled gaudy, and yes, it's a word. But not gauwdy.
DrewKaree:
Another thing I thought of while reading steve's post - I'll see if I have a speed chart I can post as well
Going slow may work, but if you experience burning on the edge (you'll understand what I mean if it happens) you'll need to move the router faster than that.
Remove any pitch/tar/gunk from your bit after use. Not doing so will greatly aid you in the possible screwing up of your next project
DO NOT try to hog out all the material in one pass if the amount of material needed to be removed is more than 1/16". Make a few SHALLOW cuts to get to your finished depth. Not doing so will ALSO add to the possibility that you'll burn your routed edges.
If at all possible, try to use a router table.
If at all possible, try to use a carbide bit. If you MUST use HSS bits on MDF, buy two. The ragged edge soon to appear will tell you when it's time to change to the newer bit :-\
Oh, and on the degree bits, you should be able to easily find those at Home Depot. They usually have 45o, 30o, and 20isho bits.
stevejt:
One more thing about the file. In any corners, you will have to go the "long way" moving the file to remove any rounds. That is obvious. BUT if you are using a file on a long edge, like to remove a sharp edge, or some bumps,(due to glue on the bit), you can burn the edge if you do it incorrectly. Hold the file at a 45 degree angle, (or close, just as long as its closer to 45, than to 90). Files have the grooves at angles, these angles should be touching the wood at an angle, NOT matching the direction. Slide the file with the length of the board, NOT across it. You might want to try this on the practice piece first.
It is all REALLY simple, (especially if you have a little common sense, or any carpentry experience,) it just sounds complicated when trying to be described with out any pictures.
Let us know how it works out.
Steve
Wade:
Depending on how you build your panels, you can just use your flat/90 degree flush trim bit, and then add t-molding to cover the edge. This is how I have always used laminate, it has never occurred to me to use an angle bit on an arcade game. A kitchen counter, maybe. ;)
I'd also not recommend using the water-based contact cement. I've had better luck with the oil based stuff. I'd also recommend following the instructions on the can, which suggests more than one coat of the glue, and letting it dry fully before attaching the pieces.
I have had a couple of problems with laminate sticking properly. Usually this is because I didn't let the glue dry enough, or the surface I was gluing to wasn't scuffed up enough. If you are gluing to plywood or MDF, you probably won't have that problem as the glue will soak into the wood a bit.
Hope this helps,
Wade