Hooking up an Arcade Monitor

[Speed]

I finally got my arcade cabinet and ive started mounting my pc. The only thing I overlooked was how to power the monitor. I can make the connection to plug into my graphics card ok but how do you go about getting power to the display? Is it possible to use power from the computers power supply?

[Overture]

HEya

Doesn't the monitor have an AC plug? most monitors do.
It would be hard to power from the PC since the power supply outputs 5 and 12 volts in DC. I suppose you could come up with an adapter to piggyback off the powersupply, if it allows it. Many computer monitors are already connected like that. ie. the PS has an output socket as well as an input plug. All you'd need is a PC pwoer extension cable and a bit of spare time with a stanley knife :-)
...

[Speed]

oops I should of specified that this was an original arcade monitor that came with the cabinet. It has the 4 wires coming out of it you use to make the vga connector and a black and red wire coming out used for power. Im guessing it was originally plugged into a arcade monitor chasis or something but how do you get it to work if you dont have one?

Cheers

[MameFan]

If this is an authentic/original arcade style monitor, please read the following line several times:


** YOU ABSOLUTELY MUST and I mean MUST USE AN ISOLATION TRANSFORMER TO CONNECT POWER TO YOUR ARCADE STYLE MONITOR!!!! **


If you don't, one of several things will happen:
1) You will blow the fuse on the monitor
2) You will blow the fuse/circuit breaker in your house
3) You will blow up the circuit board on the monitor
4) You will destroy your video card
5) You will destroy your video card and motherboard
6) You will destroy your whole computer and power supply and drive AND monitor
7) You will start a fire.
You will hurt or kill yourself or others.


Arcade monitors, like TV's run on what's called a "HOT" chassis.  The chassis floats "above ground" therefore ground to it is NOT the same as ground to the earth.

Your computer however is "truely" grounded.  If you connect the video card's cable to the monitor cable you will end up sending the monitor's ground to REAL ground, which is a difference of about 60-120 volts in most cases of at LEAST 1 full amp, and you'll fry NUMEROUS pieces of electronics, if not yourself.

You MUST MUST MUST place an isolation transformer between the wall outlet (mains) and the power input to the monitor.  

You can buy 1-1.5 amp 100-120 volt isolation transformers for as little as $12 or so on the net, plus shipping.

If you touch any 'ground' on a TV set without an isolation transformer you will send a good (or bad depending on how you look at it) jolt of electricity through you. Thats why TV techs place TV's on isolation transformers in the shop.  Arcade monitors are the same. Only PC-specific monitors and some *hybrid* arcarde/vga style monitors contain isolation transformers or equivelent circuits on them.

Basically if your monitor doesn't accept the 3 prong connector as your computer's power supply does, you can assume it needs an isolation transformer. Even if it does accept the 3 prong power connector dont assume that it is safely isolated--test with a meter set for 200 V from a metal part of the frame to the ground on an outlet first... If there's voltage present, then it's NOT safe to touch until you isolate it.

[Speed]

Ok so basically all I need is to get one of these transformers have the power from the wall go into it then hook the monitor power cord into that. Then modify the connection for the display ( red green blue h sync vsync ground wires) modify the connector to plug into the graphics card? Also are you definate that i need a 100 - 120V isolation transformer?

[neuromancer]

? Also are you definate that i need a 100 - 120V isolation transformer?

You *MUST* have an isolation transformer. It is a big coil of wire the size of a cabbage. You can probably see where it used to be screwed to the bottom of the cabinet.

The easiest way to break out the VGA signal is to purchase a VGA to 5 BNC cable. It has each color, and the two synchs clearly identified on separate wires. About $20.

bob