The biggest capacitor in a TV is not one most people think of.... It's the tube itself. It has electrically conductive coating inside AND outside the tube, and the di-electric between them (glass) make the tube a HUGE capactitor and the most deadly.... The only other "painful" (when turned off) capacitor is any big power line filter one (B+) if the set has it... though most new TV's modulate the voltage by increasing the frequency like PC power supplies do, and therefore no longer need big transformers or capacitors to do the work, so they're only deadly when they're on.
The thing about dealing with a 25" or larger TV out of the case is the fact that they are VERY hard to work with in mounting, e.g. take 2 or more people to align, and you need VERY sturdy wood and mounts. The plastic shell of a TV set not only supports the tube in the 4 corners where it has the mounts welded to the band outside the glass, but ALSO via small plastic ribs under and along side the tube, tranferring the entire weight of the glass across a very large area of plastic and onto its base.
So, if I were to even attempt to mount any tube larger than 20" on wood, I'd use at LEAST 1" thick plywood, plus cut the hole a tad smaller than needed, and then slowly file it larger to ensure the tube can rest on the wood. Also, I would not provide much of an incline to the tube (don't tilt the top back more than a few degrees) as then you'd be transferring the weight onto the 4 corner tabs only.
For 19" and smaller, 3/4" plywood is acceptable, so long as you have solid edges in the 4 corners with metal reinforcements (e.g. big washers) for the bolts to connect the tabs to the wood.
I'd NEVER consider moving a cabinet, unless *maybe* on rollers, if you have a "raw" mounted 25" or bigger tube in it... Tooooooo easy to have it break from the corner welds and fall and implode..
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Topic: Television for monitor question (Read 2157 times)
