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routing question

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Robopede:
Someone please correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe the specific type of straight bit you'll need is a mortising bit.

Crazy Cooter:
Glossary of Router Bit Terms

Bead: A small rounded raised profile routed on the edge of a work piece.

Bevel Cut: A cut made at an angle through a piece of work piece.

Biscuit Joint: A type  of glue joint in which an oval-shaped biscuit covered with a water-based glue is placed in slots cut in the edges of wood. The two pieces are clamped together, and the glue causes the biscuit to swell and create a tighter glue joint.

Blind Hole Routing: A method of routing in which the bit does not go all the way through the work piece.

Chamfer: (1)A beveled edge, technically one of 45 degrees. (2) A beveled cut made along the length of the edge of a board.

Cove: A concave profile cut into the edge of the work piece.

Crown Molding: A type of molding typically used as trim as well as to conceal the joint between walls and ceilings.

Dado: (1)A flat bottomed recessed cut made across the grain of a board. (2)A type of groove joint.

Dovetail Joint: A method of jointing wood at the corners through interlocking pins and tails.

Edge guide: A straight edge used to guide a router along a work piece.

Finger Joint: A joint in which a series of fingers, or tenons, are cut into the ends of the two pieces of material to be joined. The fingers mesh together.

Fluting: Concave half round decorative molding profiles.

Groove: A cut made with the grain of a board.

Kerf: In slot cutters, the width of the cutting edge.

Lap Joint: A joint made by placing one piece partly over another and bonding the over-lapped sections. Also called a halving joint.

Lock Miter: A type of joint made by fastening together interlocking parts with ends cut at an angle.

Miter: The process of cutting material for an equal-angle joint. Most miter cuts are made at 45 degrees so that they will form a 90 degree angle when they are put together.

Molding: A decorative profile usually used for trim work, to cover exposed edges or provide decoration.

Mortise: A round or rectangular hole cut into a piece of wood to accept a tenon. Also used to recess hardware such as hinges.

Mortise and Tenon Joint: A joint in which the tenon, or formed shoulder projection, of one board fits into a complementary mortise on another board.

Ogee: A decorative molding profile with a S shape, generally used for edge forming applications.

Piloted Bit: A router bit with a ball bearing above the cutter that keeps the bit a fixed distance from the edge of the material being routed.

Plunge Cut: A cut made in the interior of the work piece that receives another piece to form a joint.

Rabbet: An open ended cut made along the edge of a work piece that receives another piece to form a joint.

Runout: (1)The amount of wobble in a router bit, or how much the bit moves from left to right during use. (2)The splintering and jagged edges left by lesser quality router bits.

Score: To mark with lines or grooves.

Slot Cutter: A cutting tool used to make slots, rabbets, dadoes, lap joints and tongue and groove joints.

T-Molding: A T-shaped molding used to provide decorative or protective edges. T-Molding is inserted into a slot cut in the other piece.

Tongue and Groove: A joint in which the protruding ridge, or tongue, of one piece fits into a matching groove in the other piece.

Veining: The process of patterning with, or as if with, veins.

Definately buy carbide bits.

I use a router like drew posted if my cut is going completely through a piece of wood and for oak edging.  I use a smaller seam router for recessing stuff and laying laminates.

DrewKaree:

--- Quote from: Robopede on October 03, 2004, 06:24:24 am ---Someone please correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe the specific type of straight bit you'll need is a mortising bit.

--- End quote ---
It's exact name is a "hinge mortising bit" (at least the CMT bit shown above is)

If you are picking up a bit for a PLUNGE router, it IS called a straight bit, and they'll make 'em with single, double, and triple "flutes" (although triples aren't common, and quite pricey).  

You CAN use the plunge router bit ("straight bit") in a fixed base router.  You will know them by their "flutes".  They'll come in single, double, and (not always easy to find) triple flutes.  The only difference is...more flutes, less material for each flute to take off, smoother cut.  The novice woodworker would be hard-pressed to tell the difference between a double and triple flute cut, but the difference between a single and double is more noticeable, as the single has to "hog out" more material.  

Get a double flute straight bit.  

bigle:

--- Quote from: DrewKaree on October 03, 2004, 12:08:25 am ---
--- Quote from: DanteBK on October 02, 2004, 10:16:41 pm ---While you're giving advice to inexperienced routers, I'm going to buy a router tomorrow to rout for joysticks and a trackball and was wondering exactly what the type of bit I need to buy is called.

I always hear people say "straight bit," but is that what I'm going to ask for? Should it be a certain measure or type? Do I need any other parts to attach it to the router that won't come with the router or the bit themselves?

Thanks in advance!

P.S. I'm not trying to be a jerk and hijack the thread, but I know how some people here feel about "easy" questions and would just as soon not start a whole thread for this one.

--- End quote ---
There should be an HD near you, three that I can see....anyhoo, pick yourself up the Ryobi router - three base model.
--- End quote ---

DrewKaree:

--- Quote from: bigle on November 22, 2004, 11:26:35 pm ---i am looking at getting a router for christmas and came across this recommendation during my search.  just out of curiousity, what are the fixed base and d-handle base for and how often does anybody use them?  i ask because the cheaper ryobi router is around $70 for 1.5 hp while the three pack is $150 for 2 hp and the extra pieces.  just wondering if it is worth it.
--- End quote ---
I have a router table, and I have the fixed base installed in there, as the motor just screws right into it, so I am ALWAYS easily capable of throwing something on the router table quickly.  And P.S. don't EVER buy one of those POS router tables from sears/home depot/lowes, etc.  Build your own.  Seriously.  There's plans I can pass on to you, and you'll find it WAY more versatile and useful than the pressed steel bolted together chintzy versions they sell.

The D-handle makes it WICKED easy to go around larger panels with one hand, BUT I DO NOT RECOMMEND YOU USE ONE HAND ONLY ON YOUR ROUTER UNLESS YOU HAVE LOTS OF EXPERIENCE WITH A ROUTER!  USE THE "EAR" SECOND HANDLE!  When I do the edge of a deck, it's just like zipping across it with the saw to profile the edge of all the boards.....it's one of those things that, until you've used it, you don't realize how nice a D-handle is.  My Porter Cable didn't have the "ear" on it, but again, HEED the warning above!

I use the plunge base for everything else.

I DON'T use this router for work, I got it for "around the house" use cuz it was nice and cheap!  I originally got it to replace my nice one until I could afford a replacement for my nice one. 

Give it a week or so, that three pack router only cost me $120.  For only $50 extra, I got an extra 1/2 Hp, and one DARN versatile router! 

I'm not positive, cuz I don't know specifically which other Ryobi router you were looking at, but the three base set handles 1/2" AND 1/4" bits.  The extra 1/2 Hp will help when driving the larger shanked bits too.

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