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drilling metal control panel
fatbasta:
I didn't have much luck. I burnt up 1 hole saw, should have used lube of some kind, twisted the shaft off of 2 rotary files and my hi torq Dewalt nearly ripped my arm off twice. I gave up and cut one out of 3/4 MDF. With a few coats of black enamel It looks just as good as the original. I hope you have better luck.
whammoed:
Did these with bi-metal holes saws for everything 1 1/8" and larger and used a step bit for the smaller holes. All bits and saws are still in good shape.
durak:
Considered having it made instead of making it yourself? I just cut out rectangles on the original panel where the buttons are, and bolted the one made at a workshop on top of it. Looks very nice, and only cost me 20 euros (around 25$ I guess) so it's less than all those fancy tools needed for doing it yourself. Just need to find a relatively small shop that will bother with doing it for you.
Minwah:
I'd highly recommend a hole punch. I bought a relatively cheap one and it worked wonders for me (admittedly it probably won't last as long as a more expensive one, but I won't need it much).
johnnysmitch:
I've found that when you're using a hole saw to cut through sheet metal, it's usually better to go slower RPM with a lot of force than to use the highest setting, as you can keep better control, and can back off right away if the bit starts to snag, which can result in a hell of a tweaked arm. And if you're planning to drill through stainless, going slow with a lot of force is the only way to even drill the hole, as going fast will heat-temper the stainless, and then you'll never get through it with a drill. BTW, if you're using a cordless drill (I drilled many holes in stainless with an 18v dewalt), just make sure to let the drill rest adaquetly between holes, or you're gonna burn out the motor. This applies to any drill really, but cordless ones seem to burn up alot faster...