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Router bit for t-molding

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brianoneill:

Hi guys.
I've finally decided to build the my cab after getting all the I-pac, btns and joysticks working :)

I'm gonna put yellow t-molding on the cab but being not very diy inclined i've not much of a clue as to how to do it.
I'm getting the t-molding from ...http://www.t-molding.com/cart/customer/product.php?productid=22&cat=18&page=1.
I've done a search of the forums and best I can figure out, I need these two items...Slot Cutter 3 Wing #301 - 1/16" #301 $12.00 & Slot Cutter Complete Assmbly #7641, 1/16" - 1/2" shank #7641 $16.00 from http://www.mlcswoodworking.com.
Can someone who knows this stuff let me know if this is infact what I need? I've got the router, just wanna make sure this is the right bit I need ? Help would be much appreciated.

Cheers,
Brian.

SirPeale:

http://www.arcadecontrols.org/yabbse/index.php?board=1;action=display;threadid=24962

http://www.arcadecontrols.org/yabbse/index.php?board=1;action=display;threadid=24558

All on the front page.

brianoneill:

Thanks. I had seen both posts but still not ure whether I need the 1/4" or 1/2" shanks set !?
Whats the difference, is this the depth of the cut ?
Which do I need ?

MonitorGuru:

As always, it depends on the size of your tool ;)

Most routers are 1/4" shanks (the part below the cutting part).

If you have a more powerful router, it MAY have a 1/2" shank.  A larger shank reduces vibration while turning and reduces heat buildup that can cause the bit to slide out (plunge deeper) while being used.

But if you have a 1/2" router it should have included a 1/2 to 1/4" collet converter.

If you go with 1/4" you're probably safe.  1/2" and you might find yourself upgrading your router.

flampoo:

Tool. Shank. Slide. Heat. Vibration. Plunge. You're kinda' dirty.

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