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| brianoneill:
Hi guys. I've finally decided to build the my cab after getting all the I-pac, btns and joysticks working :) I'm gonna put yellow t-molding on the cab but being not very diy inclined i've not much of a clue as to how to do it. I'm getting the t-molding from ...http://www.t-molding.com/cart/customer/product.php?productid=22&cat=18&page=1. I've done a search of the forums and best I can figure out, I need these two items...Slot Cutter 3 Wing #301 - 1/16" #301 $12.00 & Slot Cutter Complete Assmbly #7641, 1/16" - 1/2" shank #7641 $16.00 from http://www.mlcswoodworking.com. Can someone who knows this stuff let me know if this is infact what I need? I've got the router, just wanna make sure this is the right bit I need ? Help would be much appreciated. Cheers, Brian. |
| SirPeale:
http://www.arcadecontrols.org/yabbse/index.php?board=1;action=display;threadid=24962 http://www.arcadecontrols.org/yabbse/index.php?board=1;action=display;threadid=24558 All on the front page. |
| brianoneill:
Thanks. I had seen both posts but still not ure whether I need the 1/4" or 1/2" shanks set !? Whats the difference, is this the depth of the cut ? Which do I need ? |
| MonitorGuru:
As always, it depends on the size of your tool ;) Most routers are 1/4" shanks (the part below the cutting part). If you have a more powerful router, it MAY have a 1/2" shank. A larger shank reduces vibration while turning and reduces heat buildup that can cause the bit to slide out (plunge deeper) while being used. But if you have a 1/2" router it should have included a 1/2 to 1/4" collet converter. If you go with 1/4" you're probably safe. 1/2" and you might find yourself upgrading your router. |
| flampoo:
Tool. Shank. Slide. Heat. Vibration. Plunge. You're kinda' dirty. |
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