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Cabinet Width Question
l8nite:
Wouldn't you guys factor in the width of the casing on the edges of the screen when making this decision too?
For example, the TV I'm planning on using is 26.25" across, but there is 2.25" of casing on the left and right sides of the TV before the screen. I figured that building the internal width of my cab 26.5" (just .25" larger than the TV itself) would still allow for a nice bezel thickness and yet also allow me to move the cabinet through some of the smaller doorways in my house.
Is having this tight fit likely to be a problem? If I wanted a CP that's going to be roughly 48" would you advocate a larger width?
Thanks,
Shaun
paigeoliver:
If you are building the style of cabinet that has an overhanging control panel then just make your cabinet just barely wide enough to get the monitor in, as the wider the basic cabinet is the more trouble you are going to have with it when it comes to moving it and lifting it.
If you are building a classic style cabinet then the magic number is 24, that is the piece's of wood that go between the sides are 24" wide (note, that is not universal, but few standard classic cabs varied much from this, some were 23, a few 25, but few went wider or narrower).
l8nite:
Good advice, thanks! 8)
DougHillman:
I disagree with paige a bit here. IMO, aesthetics are always a concern. If your CP is going to overhang, you can't make the main cabinet too skinny or it'll just look ridiculous.
For a 48" panel, I'd recommend more width than you're planning. Due to door size restrictions, it's possible you can't go much bigger, but I'd go as large as possible. For many US houses, 28" inside width with another 1.5" for your side pieces will get you in just under the 30" standard inside door size.
If you're worried about weight, build a frame-on cabinet and use 1/4" hardboard for the back & top panels instead of MDF or whatever. In fact, that's just a good suggestion regardless.