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| Mameotron:
Ungalvanized (you only get galvanized if you ask for it that way) will be cheaper, but be warned: when they manufacture steel thay coat it with an oil to keep the rust down. That crap gets everywhere. And you will be amazed at how fast it rusts after you wipe off the oil, especially your welds. You will have to prime & paint this, which is not easy. You should spray it, and you really shouldn't use spray cans. It's like painting a car, you really have to know what you are doing for it to come out nice. I think 1/16" is too thin, I would go with 1/8" (20 gauge). I don't think it would make it any more heavier than a cabinet built froom wood. Since I haven't seen your plans I can't estimate what it would weigh. Ask around, I can readily buy sheet steel in 4x8 sheets (just like plywood)!! Steel supppliers are the best. There is a steel mill about 40 miles from where I live, but they only sell by the truckload. If you are going to flame cut, be prepared to spend LOTS of time with your grinder. You just won't get a nice edge that way. A plasma cutter would work much better, but those are really expensive. Zero margin for errors? What do you mean by that? Anyone with welding experience can see that there is plenty of room for error with pieces that are not cut exactly right. Cut a little more off, or fill the gap with weld. It is just like woodworking. The whole point of the joints is that they are NOT flexible. This is what gives your structure the strength it needs. The more jounts you can eliminate by using bent sheet steel, the better. A welded joint is stronger than the steel it connects. Having said all this, I don't even want to think about all the problems you will have with connecting your controls, computer, etc. so they don't ground out on your cabinet. I doubt that there will be any effect on your monitor being in a metal cabinet. Anyway, I would love to see you do this, I think it could be a really awesome project. You've got your work cut out for you here. |
| bwest:
Assuming you are in the states, call your local Roofing distributor, (Bradco Supply, Gulfside Supply, ABC Supply, Allied Supply, etc.) Most all of them sell 4x10 sheet in 26ga through 16ga. and most common sizes in stainless and aluminum sheet. If you go with steel, you will have to whipe down the entire surface with muratic acid to etch the surface in order to get paint to adhere. Some of the distributors listed above may sell a product called "Paintgrip" which is simply galvanized sheet pretreated for paint. A sheet of 26ga 4x10 is about $20 retail, heavier gauges go up in price quickly, expecially with the steel shortage right now. Working with steel can really challenge your tools and patience. If you do not work with very sharp tools, you will "work harden" the surface and have a heck of a time drilling or cutting. However, the idea is very interesting. I hope you proceed and share your story. Good luck. |
| GameDork:
I have been a machinist for years and have MANY tools to my disposal, and wold NOT even think about dong an ALL metal cabinent!! The 2 main reasons are: 1: Expense, you have to take into account that you WILL screw something up beyond repair. i.e. drill a hole in wrong place or sideways , bend this the wrong way etc... 2: Headache, man that would be a job, MANY hours. You would be suprised at how long it takes to make something simple out of steel. I made a simple 6" brake this week, to bend some brackets for someone here, and it took around 8 hours!! And I had to throw a couple pieces away due to a small screwup. Mameotron, actually 1/8" is .125" and 20gauge steel is .036" thick BTW, Didn't SirPoonga make a steel COVERED cabinent? |
| Trimoor:
Looking back, I can see I wasn't clear when I mentioned bending the metal. What I meant was to shape it into a gradual curve, probably not even enough to break the memory of the metal. My total welding experience is about 40 minutes, but I have soldered for years. I just don't see how it would be that difficult to do. I cut the individual pieces out, then weld the edges from the inside, Grind the external corners, wipe with hydrochloric acid, (that stuff is fun 8) ) prime and paint. (I have an air compressor painter) As for electronics, the metal is a blessing. No RF worries, so you can mount the motherboard to the wall. Obviously, you would have to use spacers, but this is how motherboards are mounted anyway. |
| Tilzs:
I think you should use dimond plate :) |
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