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Trackball mounting -- 3" hole cutting bit? (what else can I use?)
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FractalWalk:
FractalWalk, I'm not sure why you had that problem... If you use a plunge router (like I have) can't you just adjust the depth so the bit lines up perfectly?

Look again at my picture to see if my explanation makes sense. The router bit arbor (dk blue) is riding along the trackball plate (black) that is flush mounted to the CP (red). See how the cutting edge of the bit (pink) is too low and it misses the plexi (green outline). If I adjust the bit up so that the cutting edge hits the plexi, then the arbor will be above my trackball plate and I would be free-handing it.

I also ran into issues of the mounting posts getting in the way of my router but perhaps that is a router specific problem.  I ended up securing the plexi on top of the CP (right-side up) and using the trackball plate as a visual guide, I free-handed the route as close to the plate as I could. Then I sanded the edges out until I was happy with the output. It actually came out quite nicely, but I never heard of anyone else having to do this and so I'm thinking there has to be a better way.

 
sofakng:
Ok, I see what you're saying now.  I'm very new to routers so I don't understand how everything works yet...

Could you possibly cut right to the mounting plate, or is that really bad for the bit?  I'm guessing that if I tried this it would totally destroy the bit...

Also, how did you cut the trackball circle out of your artwork?  I have another thread about this and I've gotten some suggestions, but I'm wondering how you did it.
ThePaul:

--- Quote from: FractalWalk on July 15, 2004, 10:48:30 am ---FractalWalk, I'm not sure why you had that problem... If you use a plunge router (like I have) can't you just adjust the depth so the bit lines up perfectly?

Look again at my picture to see if my explanation makes sense. The router bit arbor (dk blue) is riding along the trackball plate (black) that is flush mounted to the CP (red). See how the cutting edge of the bit (pink) is too low and it misses the plexi (green outline). If I adjust the bit up so that the cutting edge hits the plexi, then the arbor will be above my trackball plate and I would be free-handing it.

I also ran into issues of the mounting posts getting in the way of my router but perhaps that is a router specific problem.  I ended up securing the plexi on top of the CP (right-side up) and using the trackball plate as a visual guide, I free-handed the route as close to the plate as I could. Then I sanded the edges out until I was happy with the output. It actually came out quite nicely, but I never heard of anyone else having to do this and so I'm thinking there has to be a better way.

 

--- End quote ---

Fractal if your picture  is somewhat to scale.. couldn't you have attached the mounting late from the bottom of the cp and left the plexi on the top. This would give a gap between the cutitng surface and the template surface... I think your problem might be related to the bit though as it seems there should be some bits with no space between cutting area and bearing?
FractalWalk:
Could you possibly cut right to the mounting plate, or is that really bad for the bit?  

That's basically what I did, but I avoided hitting the metal as that would be bad for both bit and mounting plate. This left a rough not quite circular edge. Sandpaper took care of the rest.


Also, how did you cut the trackball circle out of your artwork?

I just responded to your other thread, but to re-iterate I basically mounted it first and used an exacto to cut along the plexi hole underneath.  If your plexi is on top of your art, then you could use the mounting plate as a guide.



couldn't you have attached the mounting late from the bottom of the cp and left the plexi on the top.

Unfortunately, the mounting legs get in the way. But If I had drilled precise holes in the plexi where the legs could stick through then, yes that would have worked.  



I think your problem might be related to the bit though as it seems there should be some bits with no space between cutting area and bearing?

I'm thinking you may be right, but both my trim and my pattern bits have that gap.
GadgetGeek:
If you have a drill press, http://www.rockler.com/findit.cfm?page=2393
I have one of these, but didn't pay near that amount so check locally at Lowes/Menards/HomeDepot to see what is available.
However, I think the flush bit with a router is the better way to go.  If there is the gap problem on the bit, temporarily add some spacers between the CP and the mounting plate to fix that problem.
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