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repainting coin door
SirPeale:
Speeds the drying process, and makes it harder.
etoasty:
To continue with the lock questions, do CCI over/under coin doors use the same size locks as well?
Oh yeah, I think my coin door turned out nifty. I'll take a picture if I can kidnapp my little brother's digital camera. It's amazing what 4 coats of black semi-gloss and georgia summer sunshine can do. :P
Now to rewire it ...
Oh yeah, meow that I think about it ... would the 2 12v coin door lights put enough load on an otherwise unused switching power supply to keep it from burning up. I have it disconnected right meow because I have nothing that needs DC power.
I know that I can just nab a wire out of the computer's PSU, but I don't really want to run any more wires out of the case than i have to.
SirPeale:
--- Quote from: etoasty on July 26, 2004, 02:11:33 pm ---meow meow
--- End quote ---
Aw...did someone just get done watching Super Troopers?
Also: yes, CCI doors will take a 7/8" lock.
Beretta:
old thread i know but i did'nt see anything newer.
im in the middle of redoing a few coin doors all of them have a fair bit of rust.
im taking the rust off with a wire wheel and a rotary tool which has so far worked reasonably well.
for the actual door i'll have a wire wheel and corded drill.
i bought some paint tonoight, actually i have'nt even started and im already regretting my choice.
the rust is pretty bad on the coin mech holders, simply wire wheeling the rust off is'nt gonna be a long term solution as i figure it'll just come back..
i bought some rust-olium hammered black.. this looks like a good match for the door it self.
i also bought some rust-olium clean metal primer, the hammered say's it does'nt need primer but it also says it will work better with the primer.. so im thinking 1 coat of primer + 2 coats of hammered black for the most part.
the part im regretting is i cheaped out and also bought some .96 cents gloss black, i figured this would be the top coat on the mech holder hardware since like i said has a fair bit of rust and i dont think simply hitting it with the wirewheel will keep it gone for good.
the idea is the back will get 1 coat of primer and probably just 1 coat of gloss black, i picked gloss because i figured it would be better then straight primer or flat black..
smoother for example at the top for the coin ramp into the coin mech.
but now i have doubts.. what if the cheap paint starts to crack, split or peal 6 months from now? i seen some rust-olium special purpose high gloss black, the chair on it's front looked like a mirror image but i have doubts it would turn out so great on what im gonna use it on.
anyway i did'nt post ot moan about my cheap skatieness.
all of the paints say to recoat within 1 hour, or wait 48 hours..
the except being the cheapo paint which is 4 hours or 1 week! omg i should have read the fine print.
anyway question is there any difference to recoating early.. within that 1 hour.. or is it better to wait the 48 hours for it to completely cure?
also the primer says top coat in minutes, so i can primer and then 10 mins later apply a top coat? that seems rather quick.. should i wait until the primer as dried before starting to apply the hammered black?
SirPeale:
I'd return that .96 stuff. Or you can keep it and use it somewhere non important. I bought some the other day but only to use on touching up the inside areas on a Galaxian cab.
I also wouldn't use gloss, it's /too/ glossy. Go with semi-gloss.
I won't use anything other than Rust-Oleum brand paints. I've never had a problem with it.