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Control mount upside-down
FractalWalk:
I can't picture it, but if it's what I'm thinking, I don't see where this buys you any extra length except the dust washer recess area. It also means you won't be using dust washers properly, but not many do evidently.
Howeverm you are doing this, my guess is since it was engineered to be right side up, you are going to have problems getting it to work properly.
pointdablame:
I guess its possible and it wouldnt hurt to try although I personally can't picture how that will give you all that much space.
My opinion - buy a router, borrow a router, rent a router. Find a friend with one, home depot rents them for 20 bux or so, harborfreight.com has some commercial routers for something like $30-40 if I remember correctly.
I'm using Comps in my 3/4" panel also, although I'm not as far along as you seem to be, but I will definitely be getting a router one way or another. That way you can flush mount everything and effectively get exactly the joystick height you wanted.
NoOne=NBA=:
I just screwed mine to the bottom of the panel, and the height didn't bother me at all.
You might try them that way, and see if you get used to them, just to save yourself a whole lot of work.
You can always go back and rout underneath if you want to.
FractalWalk:
Okay, I get what you are saying now. You gain the length of the actuator, which is significant.
I tried this on a spare super and it seems to fit together well. Because of the angle of the stick to the switches, this forces it to be an 8-way only, which may be OK since the supers aren't very good 4-ways to begin with.
It seems to create a shorter throw, which you may or may not like. It also forces the shaft of the stick to hit the edge of the restrictor hole instead of the cone shaped plastic insert. It gives it an odd feel (abrubt stop) and an audible "clunk" but I don't think that would affect gameplay.
Your issue with mounting it level will be tough to overcome, but it may not be noticable. You are aslo going to be tight on space for wiring as the switches will be right next to the wood. But you may be able to get a quick connect in there.
It looks like the edge of the actuator sits about 1/2" above the switches and so you're 3/4" board will cover that. As you said a larger hole may be needed to accomodate the actuator diameter.
Overall, it's a very interesting "out of the box" idea. I think it may work. I'd try it to see if you like it.