RetroBlast review: Ultimarc T-Stik and T-Stik Plus!

[JoyMonkey]

I see KevSteele has written a review of Ultimarc's T-Stik and T-Stik Plus as part of his on-going joystick review rodeo!
http://retroblast.com/reviews/joysticks/ultimarc_tstik.html

Very nice!

Though he's got them listed on the comparrison chart as costing $15 each, he's probably still in the middle of updating the page.

[mr.Curmudgeon]

Great review. I have the T-Stik Plus and I LOVE IT!

I tried both the regular microswitches and the quiet ones. The quiet ones felt a little spongy to me (not responsive enough), so I may be switching back to the regular. My installation setup is the Long ball-top, under panel mounted w/ t-nuts.

I'm still waiting for this "super-secret" project thingy KevSteele keeps talking about. Anybody have any idea what it is?

[mr.Curmudgeon]

One Question:
Anybody know where (or if) I can get .187 microswitches, w/ the proper actuator arm, for these joysticks? They come with 0.25...but everything else in my panel is .187. Maybe I'm just anal.

I've been searching around and they seem hard to find in the states (US). I'd like to get several "back-up" sets.

[GadgetGeek]

One Question:
Anybody know where (or if) I can get .187 microswitches, w/ the proper actuator arm, for these joysticks? They come with 0.25...but everything else in my panel is .187. Maybe I'm just anal.

I've been searching around and they seem hard to find in the states (US). I'd like to get several "back-up" sets.

Dremel off the edges until they are .187?

[Tahnok]

It looks like on the third picture that they have a T-Stik Plus mounted completely under wood. The pear top still seems to be about the right height for play. Can someone tell me if it would be comfortable to play?

[NoOne=NBA=]

The pear top feels about right to me, mounted that way.
The short balltops are TOO short.
The long balltops are still a bit short for most people, but I like them that way.
They feel more like Crazy Climber sticks.
Overall, the bottom of the ball to CP measurement is about the same as a Wico leafswitch stick.

Here's a picture of the T-stik plusses mounted flush to the bottom with the long balltops, next to my Wico's which are routed in 3/8", or so.
Smash TV Panel
The two middle sticks are the Wico 8-ways.
The two outer sticks are the both T-stik plusses.

Notice that the balls on the T-stiks are a little smaller than the Wico sticks, which makes the TOP of the sticks ; and the shafts are a bit smaller on the T-stiks, as well.

[Tahnok]

The pear top feels about right to me, mounted that way.

Well then, I guess that answers that dilema. I couldn't decide if I should use ball top or pear top. I guess I will be using pear top, which will save money as well since I don't need to buy the extra top.

[microwrx]

Here's a pic of my 4 player CP.  The two centre sticks are T-Stick Plus' and the outer 2 are regular T-Sticks.  I already had the regular T-Sticks off my old 2 player CP so didn't see the point buying 2 new stick for player 3&4 just because I didn't need them to be switchable.  The sticks were slightly different in height (the regular sticks are shorter) so I routed out the bottom of the CP more to bring the regular sticks up to the same height as the Plus'.  The difference was about 5mm.  Sorry about the crappy pic, it was taken with my mobile phone.   I know the dust covers are supposed to be under the CP but they cover up my crappy trimming job on the black vinyl.

[Tahnok]

I know the dust covers are supposed to be under the CP

Wait, what ? I thought that is how they are supposed to be. I have seen cabs that have the covers on top (Neo-Geo comes to mind).

[mr.Curmudgeon]

No. They are suppose to be on top. They wouldn't work that well as dust covers if they were below the CP.

Edit: Spelling

[mr.Curmudgeon]

Dremel off the edges until they are .187?

I would pay a great deal of money to NOT to have to do this!  

Do the switches Bob Roberts sells work for these joysticks?

These ones:

[microwrx]

No. They are suppose to be on top. They wouldn't work that well as dust covers if they were below the CP.

Edit: Spelling

Well, that's what I originally thought but I have read several cabinet builders on this board being accused of being 'lazy' for not mounting them under the CP, although it was some time ago...maybe my mind is going.  I have seen a couple with the dust covers mounted under the CP so I don't know.  Anyway, that's how I've done them without a care as to how they SHOULD go but solely because they covered up crappily cut holes, or the vinly at least, the holes are perfectly round!

[AndyWarne]

On the subject of mounting the dust washers, I think on most classic cabinets they were mounted under the control panel overlay, and the faceplate of the stick was recessed into the top of the wood, allowing extra depth for the overlay to clear the washer.
On all contemporary cabs I have seen including my own Sega Naomi cabinet, the dust washers rest on the top of the overlay. I have researched this in a few arcades!
So I don't think there really is a "correct" way, it's a matter of choice.

[Tiger-Heli]

On the subject of mounting the dust washers, I think on most classic cabinets they were mounted under the control panel overlay, and the faceplate of the stick was recessed into the top of the wood, allowing extra depth for the overlay to clear the washer.
On all contemporary cabs I have seen including my own Sega Naomi cabinet, the dust washers rest on the top of the overlay. I have researched this in a few arcades!
So I don't think there really is a "correct" way, it's a matter of choice.

Agreed - And you can make a similar argument for whether you "need" carriage bolts showing or not.

See http://www.oscarcontrols.com/sinistar/index.shtml for an example of how not to have the dust washers show.  This is very nice, the overlay and plexi extend to the limit of the shaft travel, no visible mounting bolts, etc.

OTOH, I have seen many, if not most, modern arcade cabs with a big black washer sitting on top of the overlay and 4 carriage bolts to hold the joystick on.

Basically, it's whatever you think looks best, but I'm grateful to OSCAR for documenting the way it "used to be" done, as I had not seen this previously.

[patrickl]

I think the dust washers look hideous on 80's style CPO's (where they will often overlap some graphics) and I sure plan to get them out of sight. I can't help feeling that they won't work (well) anymore when recessed in the CP though. Wouldn't the dust just accumulate under the CP overlay? And eventually maybe even work its way into the stick anyway?

[Tiger-Heli]

I think the dust washers look hideous on 80's style CPO's (where they will often overlap some graphics) and I sure plan to get them out of sight. I can't help feeling that they won't work (well) anymore when recessed in the CP though. Wouldn't the dust just accumulate under the CP overlay? And eventually maybe even work its way into the stick anyway?

I think the real purpose of them was to keep cigarette butts out of the joystick internals.  I doubt a LITTLE dust would hurt, and it's not like you will be pouring a cup of sand down your joysticks every few days.

I doubt dust will accumulate under the CP overlay, and it's no more likely to get under the washer and into the joystick with the washer under the plexi cutout than over the wood cutout, so I think you're fine.

[RandyT]

On the subject of mounting the dust washers, I think on most classic cabinets they were mounted under the control panel overlay, and the faceplate of the stick was recessed into the top of the wood, allowing extra depth for the overlay to clear the washer.
On all contemporary cabs I have seen including my own Sega Naomi cabinet, the dust washers rest on the top of the overlay. I have researched this in a few arcades!
So I don't think there really is a "correct" way, it's a matter of choice.

Well, if the primary purpose of the disc is to keep debris out, which we have to assume it is, then any installation method that would not prevent this as near to 100% as possible would technically be the "incorrect" way.  

In other words, if you can lift the disc and stuff a chunk of quarter pounder with cheese in there, it's not doing it's job!  

A quick survey in my local arcade shows 90% of them under the overlays.  If you look at conversions, you will see a potpourri of installation methods,  but the "big boys" tend to do it right.

Having said that, I can't say that it's a big deal for a home unit.  But when you compare it to the fine job that Oscar did on his, I'd have to agree with patrickl and say that...well...lets just say there's no comparison.

RandyT

[JoeB]

doesn't it also matter what you install it into?

My install uses 3/4" MDF as the CP top.  If I put the disc below the CP, I'm asking for trouble.

Not only is the exposed, unpained MDF is showing, but it also allows moisture to get into the exposed MDF and over time, destroy the CP!

For older CP's, which were made of metal, putting it under the CP is a no brainer..

[NoOne=NBA=]

doesn't it also matter what you install it into?

Not really.
They are there to cover up the spring/grommet area of the joystick, and prevent stuff from getting in there.

My install uses 3/4" MDF as the CP top.  If I put the disc below the CP, I'm asking for trouble.

Again, not really.
If you put them on top, someone can lift them up, and stuff something under them.

Not only is the exposed, unpained MDF is showing, but it also allows moisture to get into the exposed MDF and over time, destroy the CP!

Why isn't the inside of the hole painted?

Moisture will get in either way, if it's present.
Having the dustwasher on top will actually TRAP the moisture, so that's a problem too.

An even bigger problem (at least to me) about having the dustwasher on TOP is that it is going to cause wear on the overlay.

I guess what it really comes down to is which problem you want for YOUR CP?

For older CP's, which were made of metal, putting it under the CP is a no brainer..

Alot of the older CP's were metal OVER 3/4" wood.
They used the method Oscar showed to keep the dustwasher as high as possible, without having it on top, wearing on the graphics.

[Minwah]

I must say dust washers on the CP surface doesn't bother me...I've seen many real machines like this.

Similarly, visible carriage bolts - if it was good enough for Atari it's good enough for me

Can't deny the awe of Oscars Sinistar CP tho...

[Tiger-Heli]

If I put the disc below the CP, I'm asking for trouble.

See OSCAR's example again - The disk doesn't go below the CP - it goes below the overlay and plexi, in a recess at the TOP of the CP.

[rampy]

Does anyone else now hear kevin's voice when reading his text reviews?

His video review voice overs must have been ingrained into my noggin...

*get out of my head kevin* arggggg!

rampy

[KevSteele]

Does anyone else now hear kevin's voice when reading his text reviews?

His video review voice overs must have been ingrained into my noggin...

*get out of my head kevin* arggggg!

rampy

<mellow baritone mode ON>Now, Rampy, while I can understand your concern, I've found my voice to be perfectly compatible with a wide range of aural and psychic input devices. My plan for world domination is right on schedule....<mellow baritone mode OFF>

 

Oh, and as to the top-secret controller - things aren't looking good. I can't talk about it (just in case any of the contracts are still binding), but it's not looking good from my perspective...sigh...the company's missing the E3 expo may have been a killer blow.

PS. I fixed the pricing on the joysticks - I took an all-too-quick glance at Ultimarc's price list and grabbed the J-Stik price by accident!

Kevin