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Buidling a cockpit cab: help requested
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REBIRTH:

--- Quote from: hyiu on June 07, 2004, 03:36:23 pm ---you should go to junk yards, and auto shops...

a lot of times... they have car seats available for cheap...
(my place told me I can have them for free...)

--- End quote ---

Exactly my plan, get a real seat on the track/brackets so that you can adjust it back and forth.  If the seat isn't that "pretty" just buy a cheap seat cover at Target or something....
Rocky:

--- Quote from: Felsir on June 06, 2004, 10:04:28 am ---After building my first arcade cab I'm moving to the next level: a sitdown driving cabinet.
The design looks a little bit like a buck rogers cab. I like it because it's fairly compact.
I made a quick doodle of my plan.

Questions: Does anyone have a sitdown cab? What are the measurements for (see attached picture)
A - seat to base of the cab
B - Distance pedals - seat
C - height of the steeringwheel base
D - height to the bottom of the monitor

I plan to have 'B' variable. The whole cab comes in three parts, the base engine where the steering wheel and the pedals are attached to, the cover for the monitor and the seat assembly. The seat assembly will slide under the base unit. furniture wheels (with locks) enable it to roll under the base effectively making distance B variable. I ask the measurement to see what kind of sliding distance I generally require.

--- End quote ---

I have a Buck Rogers sit down in the garage that I'm currently working on.  I'm planning on converting it to a driving machine ( I can't find the original boards anywhere)

I'll take some measurements for you and post them.  The Buck Rogers cabinet comes in 2 pieces. The monitor piece is the size of a cabaret and includes the pedal, CP and logic boards.  The back piece is the seat, arm rest / coin door, plus half of the floor. I can carry it by myself easily.

I think it is a great sit down design.  It has a very small footprint.


Rocky
Wade:
Felsir,

   Sorry, I didn't realize you were in the Netherlands.  But the offer stands to anyone who wants the seat.  Free to anyone who wants to pick it up (Charleston, WV) or pay for the shipping (wouldn't be too bad since it is not fragile and is fairly lightweight).

   I don't think the 12V in a PC power supply probably has enough amperage to work the motors in a motorized seat.  But you could always try it.

   If anyone wants dims of a Virtua Racing Twin, which is two player but could essentially be made half as wide to accomodate a single player, then I could probably measure mine.  I have a lot of projects in the works right now so it probably wouldn't be snappy, but I should be able to get them within a week or two.

Wade
Tailgunner:
Alright, got some numbers for ya. :)

I wasn't quite sure how you want the dimensions, so I've modded your picture to illustrate where I measured from. I also added a dimension for the thickness of each cab's floor section as they vary quite a bit. "E" will be the extra dimension. Lastly, the seats on all but one slant towards the back, so I'm including dimensions for seat height at the front and back edges of the seat.

First cab is a RoadBlasters sitdown. The monitor it uses is a 19" oriented horizontally.

A: 13" at the front, 11" at the back.
B: 20"
C: 19"
D: 24"
E: 4.5"

Next cab is a Spy Hunter sitdown. It uses a 19" monitor oriented vertically.

A: 12"
B: 26"
C: 24"
D: 42"
E: 8"

Third cab is a Hard Drivin' Deluxe sitdown. It uses a 25" monitor oriented horizontally.
A:   12" at the front, ~8" at the back.
B: ~36" The seat in this cab is mounted on a swing arm with a lot of front to back travel.
C:   24"
D:   28"
E:   7"

Last sitdown is a Namco Air Combat. It uses a 52" projection TV for a monitor.
A:  9" at the front, 7" at the back.
B:  23"
C:  13" (Flight sim cab, controller is a center mounted joystick.)
D:  32"
E:  11.5"



danny_galaga:
the brake light is easy. go to your local car parts shop and ask for a cheap brake light switch. they are designed for brake pedals after all so they are perfect! they might look at you strange asking for the cheapest, if theyre really difficult about it ask for the most common aftermarket  brake light switch- should ipso facto be the cheapest...

and if you go the fan route, use an electronic speed controller. this is trickier because you could get a cheapy like this:

http://www.dse.com.au/cgi-bin/dse.storefront/40c589c300c2f4b6273fc0a87f9c078e/Product/View/K3070

but its only good for 1 amp on 12v, that is to say- 12W power. id be inclined to buy a cheap second hand drill or jigsaw with electronic speed control and hack that. the resistor used in the trigger will be actuated by the pedal (and dont worry, that part isnt high voltage)  

EDIT: IMPORTANT!! i was just working on a drill today and realised that i was wrong!! the speed controller IS high voltage so if you did this take care.

and use a mains voltage fan no more powerful than the drill/jigsaw. this could work well because the fan wont be a shunt wound motor like the drill and so will have some delay in acceleration, hopefully approximately corresponding to the game acceleration (",)
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