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| Doc-:
Go modular! I have a pretty complete modular system, and I'm continuously expanding it. I used CAT5 network connectors on two wall sockets, along with a USB hub to handle the analog devices. Just about any layout is possible, and it takes less than a minute to reconfigure. Here's detailed pictures, diagrams, tables...just click on the links at the top of the web page to see the wiring, panels, modular system, etc. http://www.beersmith.com/mame Doc- |
| telengard:
--- Quote from: Doc- on June 03, 2004, 06:47:40 pm ---Go modular! I have a pretty complete modular system, and I'm continuously expanding it. I used CAT5 network connectors on two wall sockets, along with a USB hub to handle the analog devices. Just about any layout is possible, and it takes less than a minute to reconfigure. Here's detailed pictures, diagrams, tables...just click on the links at the top of the web page to see the wiring, panels, modular system, etc. http://www.beersmith.com/mame Doc- --- End quote --- Looking good! :o I'm currently finishing up the move to CAT5 thanks to your idea. I noticed you mentioned that you were having issues with the joysticks which when you first posted your panels I was wondering about. That was one of my prime concerns which is why I used the rack rails/screws. Granted it takes an extra minute or so to swap but the thing is rock solid even for really rough playing games. Swapping is so much easier now with the CAT5 cables. I've color coded the cables and keystone jacks to make it a no-brainer. I had thought of something similar to your panels but I was afraid my saw wouldn't be accurate enough. The rack panels are an industry standard as far as measurements (1U, 2U, 3U, etc) so I didn't have to worry about that. I ended up getting "pass thru" keystone connectors and a 24 socket panel for those interested. And I have to agree with what others have mentioned. I wouldn't go back to single/swappable panels after having this. Modular is the way to go IMO. I can duplicate *any* panel just about. I finally got a Pac-Man joy so I can play Tapper with that joystick and the Tapper handle. Woo-Hoo! :) |
| Doc-:
--- Quote from: telengard on June 03, 2004, 06:56:47 pm ---I'm currently finishing up the move to CAT5 thanks to your idea. I noticed you mentioned that you were having issues with the joysticks which when you first posted your panels I was wondering about. That was one of my prime concerns which is why I used the rack rails/screws. And I have to agree with what others have mentioned. I wouldn't go back to single/swappable panels after having this. Modular is the way to go IMO. --- End quote --- Actually, no issues with the joysticks using the diagrammed mounting system. I've only had one joystick pop during play, and it turned out that the roller latch had moved out of position so it was not locked down properly. It took about a minute to put the latch back in the correct position, and I've had no other gameplay issues since. As you point out, you do need access to a table saw and probably a drill press to do a good job accurately cutting the panels and drilling the holes. You can set the saw for one panel width and then mass produce the panels if you want - same with the drill press. However - absolutely nothing wrong with your metal panels - they look great and I'm sure the design is rock solid! CAT5 and USB are the way to go for modular panels. Swapping is a piece of cake! I had two friends over the other day who had played my cabinet before I went modular and then again afterwards - both were totally blown away by the flexibility. As soon as a game came to mind, we just popped in the correct controllers and fired it up. One player wanted his sticks on the right - so he played 4 ways, 8 ways, trackball, any way - no problem. There is no way you could have done it all even with a frankenpanel. He is now building his design based on the modular setup. Need to add some more panels to the web site - I have a "tron" type converted Wingman stick (8 way, 3 button) and some narrow 4 button panels now. |
| DaveMMR:
I love Doc's modular design - definately a sleek, functional marvel. Nevertheless I'm still going with full panels that are swappable. However, I'm making it so that a good chunk of the games are playable with the main panel (no wasting a panel for a 4-way joystick when I'll have enough space for it on the main). I also designed the cab so that extra panels can be stored at the bottom of the cab (though I can't store that many, but I don't envision making that many panels to begin with). I like the idea of just slapping an I-PAC onto each panel instead of fooling with connections. I don't know how feasible that is though, cost wise. I also loved the idea of the leaf connections (I just wish there was more written on the outcome, problems, etc. because I can't really afford to be experimental right now). Perhaps it's time to hit the ole' calc.exe and see the whole time vs. cost factor on the I-PAC (and OPTI-PAC) for every panel idea. |
| telengard:
--- Quote from: Doc- on June 03, 2004, 10:36:09 pm --- --- Quote from: telengard on June 03, 2004, 06:56:47 pm ---I'm currently finishing up the move to CAT5 thanks to your idea. I noticed you mentioned that you were having issues with the joysticks which when you first posted your panels I was wondering about. That was one of my prime concerns which is why I used the rack rails/screws. And I have to agree with what others have mentioned. I wouldn't go back to single/swappable panels after having this. Modular is the way to go IMO. --- End quote --- Actually, no issues with the joysticks using the diagrammed mounting system. I've only had one joystick pop during play, and it turned out that the roller latch had moved out of position so it was not locked down properly. It took about a minute to put the latch back in the correct position, and I've had no other gameplay issues since. As you point out, you do need access to a table saw and probably a drill press to do a good job accurately cutting the panels and drilling the holes. You can set the saw for one panel width and then mass produce the panels if you want - same with the drill press. However - absolutely nothing wrong with your metal panels - they look great and I'm sure the design is rock solid! CAT5 and USB are the way to go for modular panels. Swapping is a piece of cake! I had two friends over the other day who had played my cabinet before I went modular and then again afterwards - both were totally blown away by the flexibility. As soon as a game came to mind, we just popped in the correct controllers and fired it up. One player wanted his sticks on the right - so he played 4 ways, 8 ways, trackball, any way - no problem. There is no way you could have done it all even with a frankenpanel. He is now building his design based on the modular setup. Need to add some more panels to the web site - I have a "tron" type converted Wingman stick (8 way, 3 button) and some narrow 4 button panels now. --- End quote --- Very cool. Yeah my table saw is an el-cheapo and I am pretty clumsy so staying away is probably a good idea. ::) I need to finish up my modules also. I have most of the easy ones done. What's left now is the big stuff like the Star Wars yoke, Spy Hunter yoke, Pole Position wheel, Sinistar joystick, and other exotic controls. I'll eventually put pics up of all the controls when they are done. I can't overstate how much easier modular controls are w/ the CAT 5. Color coding the patch panels and cables makes it soooo much better. Thanks for showing me the light! While we're on the subject anyone have any alternatives to "terminal strips" that are jumpered to give more than 2 terminals per connection? With 24 CAT5 cables coming to my IPAC I need something in between for multiple connections. You are definitely right about the design being catchy. I helped a friend build a cocktail and he wanted all the off the wall stuff I have in my cab: modular controls, rotating monitor, etc. That's where the real hard work was. We got his cocktail up in about a 1/2 hour w/ the IPAC, the other stuff takes lots of time. |
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