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| A few questions from a beginner |
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| Pasqualz:
Hooch, it looks by your pictures that you are basically using LuSiD's plans. correct? I'm in the process of building my cabinet from LuSID's plans! Anyway, I'm planning on using casters for easy transport of teh cabinet, but I'm also thinking of putting leveling feet on the cab so that it will be less moveable once I put it in it's final location. So far I've been unable to find the levelers at home depot, but I knwo they're out there somewhere. Basically, they are plastic feet mounted on a bolt that screws into a metal piece mounted on teh underside of the cabinet. If you turn 'em clockwise, they move downward, and counter-clockwise moves them upward so that you can level the cabinet on any floor! If anyone knows where I can find these, please let me know!!!!! |
| DaveMMR:
--- Quote from: Hooch on May 31, 2004, 07:56:34 pm ---Thanks for the quick replies. I have to say out of the many online communities I've been a part of, this appears to be the most helpful and most courteous I have seen. I've only been trolling around on the boards for about a week or two, but so far I love it. Another quick question. How many people use caster wheels, and does it help, also does it rock when you are playing with intensity? --- End quote --- I wrestled back and forth with using caster wheels but decided to get a pair of stationary and a pair of rotating with a lock just in case I have to get to the back (that actually came from the cabinet building write-up whose author and webpage I can't seem to locate at this time). The way I designed the inside of the cab, however, the only time I ever have to get to the back is if there's a TV problem. The wheels won't be a big problem if the cab will be on a carpet, but with locking wheels you should be okay. |
| Tailgunner:
I use casters on my sit down cabs, but my uprights use levelers only. Then again I own a refrigerator dolly and can move the upright cabs with little effort. ;) @Pasqualz: I buy levelers at the parts counter of a nearby arcade/vending distributor. There are several online places that sell them, (Happ, Bob Roberts, Arcadeshop, ect..) or you could check your yellow pages to see who's listed under Amusement Devices or Vending. |
| RayB:
To original poster: Buttons and joystick switches only require 1 unique wire each. For the 2nd wire, the ground, they can all share the same ground wire. So there you go, 6 + 6 + 3 + 3 button, + 4x4 joys, + 4 start + 2 coin + 1 ground = 41 Plenty of room left for your admin buttons too... |
| Hooch:
--- Quote from: Pasqualz on May 31, 2004, 08:54:21 pm ---Hooch, it looks by your pictures that you are basically using LuSiD's plans. correct? --- End quote --- I got a lot of my design from Lusid, but I also took a lot from arcadeparadise.org. a few small differences are the speaker panel doesn't go as deep, I used 1x1's to keep from putting screws in the side panel, the panels aren't flush with the sides (they are about 1/2" deep), and I used 2x4's for added support. RayB, thanks for the help. I didn't realize at first that 8 way joysticks only took 4 wires, that was where I was off on my numbers. The one thing I keep going over in my head is if I want to make an access door out of the front panel. My main problem is that I want it recessed about 1/2" deep and I'm not sure if it's possible to do that with hidden hinges. In your experiences which was more difficult, the building of the cab or the wiring of the cab? anyway, thanks for all the help. Keep the posts coming with more helpful hints. |
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