Its there a way to use touchtunes hardware with windows?

[abispac]

yeah, see that looks like it's the "proper" one... so by all rights, it should have what it needs.

unless they re-assigned the pins or something, but i don't think so. unless... i dunno. some are 1 and 2 and on some of the other brands/manufacturers it's like 1 and 14 or something like that. it's supposed to be all universal so you didn't have to swap cables and stuff... but it didn't end up that way sometimes.

Ok lets try again. Can you please help me understand what I'm doing like a 5 year old please? hahaha
Let me explain. Im used to hook push buttons to arcade games. hot to one end of the keyboard encoder and common to all grounds of every push button, and the main ground to the keyboard encoder. Now, in the past, the bill acceptro I used for a juke, I did hooked it in a similar way, except, that because the pulses were to weak for the keyboard encoder to take them as push buttons, I used an arduino 5v relay to achieve a trick. So if I remember correctly and I might be wrong, this is how i did it. As you can see on the image, i connected the acceptor ground to ground on the relay, injected 5v to vcc and the NO on bill acceptor to gpio or signal. So everytime the bill acceptor would send pulses, they would be converted to regular push button signals that the encoder could detect. Hopefully i explained myself with all this.

So i tried the same approach with this bill acceptor, to a no good result. Using a multimeter, i cant see any pulses coming out of the acceptor.
I really don't understand how low and high signals work, but i imagine the bigger the number the better as the encoder or whatever it take the signal would have more time to read the signal, right?
And you mention ""if your system requires the line to go high for a credit issued, you'd wire pin 1 (credit relay common) to your positive rail (5v or whatever...) and pin 2 (Credit relay NO) to the credit line.""
This confuses me a little bit because i was thinking that adding 5v would make the signal act as a push button signal, and in that case that would make the NO cable a ground cable? maybe I'm mixing things up.

So all that being said, do you by any chance have an idea how can i manage to convert the pulse signal to a regular rpush button signal, without any expensive hardware?
Thanks for your help.

[lilshawn]

the acceptor has all the switching ability in it already. you don't need an external relay or anything. you would just attach the credit NO line to your microcontroller... (probably with like a 10k resistor tied to +5v to hold it high) and attach the credit com to ground.

then program your microcontroller to detect the line going from high (it's normal condition) to low and when it does, issue whatever command you see fit. my recommendation would be to set up the microcontroller as an HID keyboard and have it output a keystroke your software can convert to a credit.

[abispac]

So im gonna have to wait till payday in order to buy the 10k resistor and the arduino in order to test the bill acceptor. In the meantime, I'm still trying to break the bios password in order to see if either 1 , the bios can be modified to allow the PC to be turned on and off with the missing power button that i  want to install if I can modify the bios, or 2 update the bios with a compatible bios in order to add those options. I spent hours looking for a motherboard that looks similar and there are many asus that look like it.Its an  LGA1151 motherboard but that's all i got. I'm not a bios expert, I do have a USB bios reader but the pin is broken so I have to buy one so I can read the bios directly and see if I can break the password.  I have erased bios in the past and replace them with clean one, i just need to find the correct bios or compatible bios so i can replace it.

Now, what happened to the days when you could simply remove the battery and erase the password?

Here I see that it has some options to play with the bios, but since I already removed the battery, pressed the erase bios button and the password persists, I imagine it's like a laptop bios that can't really be fully erased.
I don't know, I'm running out of ideas, but if anyone has fresh ideas, let me know so I can put them to work, thanks for your help.
I also cant seem to find the bios chip, the one marked as baox19 seems suspicious , but I cant find anything about it.
Ps I love how simple and easy to use the rockbe software is.

[lilshawn]

the password is "jukeXXXX" the "XXXX" being the year of the release of the jukebox. probably 2017 or 2018. i don't remember precisely. so like the password is juke2017 or juke2018... something like that.

[abispac]

the password is "jukeXXXX" the "XXXX" being the year of the release of the jukebox. probably 2017 or 2018. i don't remember precisely. so like the password is juke2017 or juke2018... something like that.

Yeah, I already tried them all to no good luck. Yesterday I took the PC apart as you can see in the pictures, and soldered cables to the bios unexistent pinouts to see if using pin 2-3 debug mode, would allow me to erase the bios password.
EDIT: since the startup screen shows 1998-2018 I even tried that number, I tried all from juke1998 to juke2024 and also juke1998-2018 , nothing works.

[abispac]

the password is "jukeXXXX" the "XXXX" being the year of the release of the jukebox. probably 2017 or 2018. i don't remember precisely. so like the password is juke2017 or juke2018... something like that.

 

[abispac]

Man what a trip, thanks for all the help I have received, now with access to the bios, I need to find the options that would let me turn off the computer without cutting the electricity. As right now if I choose shutdown, the computer would just restart. Anyway thanks a lot again Lilshawn. Ill keep posting my stuff here.

[mahkeymike]

What about the power-on signal wire on the atx connector? Its usually green wire. Shorting to ground wire ( black ) should trigger power off?

[lilshawn]

What about the power-on signal wire on the atx connector? Its usually green wire. Shorting to ground wire ( black ) should trigger power off?

quite the opposite, grounding the green power on wire will tell the power supply to power on... regardless if the computer is ready or not. but in this case, won't work, due to the fact that this particular motherboard has nothing but a backplane interface... the computer (i think) just runs on 12v from the power supply box through the backplane connector.



i believe the shutdown issue might be with windows. i've run into the scenario where doing a shutdown results in the computer rebooting and it's usually an update the breaks it since windows thinks it has better drivers for the chipset than I do. (pro tip... no you fugging don't Bill.)

Open the Control Panel

At the top of the old Control Panel, search for "power"

Select "Power & Sleep"

scroll down and choose "Additional power settings"

on the left side of the new window, "choose what the power buttons do"

Under 'Shutdown settings' disable 'Turn on fast startup'

If the box is grayed out, you'll need to click the text at the top that says "Change Settings that are currently unavailable"

in fact... turn off all the things. they don't work, and in a world full of SSD storage, and 32 gigs of ram we dont need to sleep and hibernate and crap anymore. It's pointless cause it was all designed to help computers boot up faster... but these days? who cares if my PC takes 50 seconds to boot instead of 20. it doesn't take 10 minutes anymore.

[mahkeymike]

Have you tried shutdown /r from command prompt?

[abispac]

Update on the bill acceptors: Im giving up on them, It seems they don't output any pulses at all, its ok, I'ma buy some new ones.
Usb audio works nice.
Im having issues with HDMI not sending any video to the second screen. Im not sure if I broke something, as when I was testing the PC the first time, I was using the HDMI output and it worked fine previously. Its ok for now, will look into that later.
There are no visible options to change the computer from always on to be able to shut down. But I'm starting to think it has either a secondary bios or hidden bios options as there is no way to erase the bios password. I don't think the computer not being able to shut down has anything to do with windows, since I've already formated the PC again in uefi mode since I changed the bios for that.
Im 100% sure its either a hidden bios option or a an option on the power button.
Perhaps ill use it just as it is working now, and in the future ill replace the PC with a regular mini itx PC. But ill keep digging for future information.
The Bios has me wondering, because like I said before, you cant erase the main pasnsword, yes you can set an administrator password and an user password, but if you want to get into de bios, you still have to use the original password, so it has to have hidden options.
Anyway ill keep posting as I still play with it. I still don't have have powerful enough speakers to test the amps.
Right now I'm using my bedroom sound bar hehehe with the USB to aux dongle.
I really love this software, easy to use, no tag friendly, and being able to play music from the internet, makes not having to update your juke a nice feature. To bad is in Spanish.
Ill post a video later tomorrow.

[lilshawn]

yeah, that whole board was custom made for touchtunes, it only makes sense that they'd have the bios custom made to as well.

i guess a guy could rip the bios out of the chip, load the bios into a hex editor... dig to find the area where the password is hard coded and remove it. unless you could find out who made it and contact the company directly and see about a generic bios for it. i see it's FCC marked, so you might be able to find an FCC number or registration on the board someplace and find the FCC testing file. that document will tell you who made it.

i've had mixed luck with doing that. some companies have no problem giving me an updated generic bios or other information about the boards...... while others cling onto the this is intellectual property of touchtunes thing and refuse to do anything and would rather i talk to them about it.

but yeah, this is why these jukes are so hard to mess with...so much proprietary stuff in some of them.

windows is weird with displays sometimes... it all depends on what the motherboard is treating the primary display as.

you may have to navigate your way to the Device Manager and check for any warning signs next to your graphics drivers. might be something there screwing it up. some kind of monitor or display device should show up there, if it's not, it'll need more looking into.

[abispac]

yeah, that whole board was custom made for touchtunes, it only makes sense that they'd have the bios custom made to as well.

i guess a guy could rip the bios out of the chip, load the bios into a hex editor... dig to find the area where the password is hard coded and remove it. unless you could find out who made it and contact the company directly and see about a generic bios for it. i see it's FCC marked, so you might be able to find an FCC number or registration on the board someplace and find the FCC testing file. that document will tell you who made it.

i've had mixed luck with doing that. some companies have no problem giving me an updated generic bios or other information about the boards...... while others cling onto the this is intellectual property of touchtunes thing and refuse to do anything and would rather i talk to them about it.

but yeah, this is why these jukes are so hard to mess with...so much proprietary stuff in some of them.

windows is weird with displays sometimes... it all depends on what the motherboard is treating the primary display as.

you may have to navigate your way to the Device Manager and check for any warning signs next to your graphics drivers. might be something there screwing it up. some kind of monitor or display device should show up there, if it's not, it'll need more looking into.

Ill just put it to work like it is now and buy a new computer once I get money out of it hehehe, but it was a great learning curve. thanks Lilshawn for all the help.

[abispac]

So the old owner of the angelina, liked the juke so much, he is willing to trade it for virtuo with the base included, I believe the base is the speaker.... Should I do the trade?

Mr LilShawn, can you enlight me on the hardware difference, beside having a credit card reader and a bigger screen....

Thanks for your feedback.

[lilshawn]

virtuo is okay.

early models have issues with black spots appearing on the LCD panels due to a manufacturing defect. later models have no panel issues... but some issues with bad caps on the  backlight inverters. newer ones have LED backlit panels and have issues with the caps going bad on the LVDS board. the later 2 being fixable... the spots, not at all other than panel replacement. good luck finding a panel to replace it....it's a weird size and wasn't available for long.

the computer is decent. it's output audio via regular headphone jacks so no messing around there. you will need a "red" DI box to convert the audio from the computer to the amp (amp accepts balanced audio over ethernet...the IO board does this so you'll have to sub the red DI box to do this.)

the card reader is worthless as it's been disabled due to new PCI credit card processing rules rules... making it non-compliant.

the stand should have woofers built into it... it should also have some satellite speakers attached to either side as well.

[abispac]

virtuo is okay.

early models have issues with black spots appearing on the LCD panels due to a manufacturing defect. later models have no panel issues... but some issues with bad caps on the  backlight inverters. newer ones have LED backlit panels and have issues with the caps going bad on the LVDS board. the later 2 being fixable... the spots, not at all other than panel replacement. good luck finding a panel to replace it....it's a weird size and wasn't available for long.

the computer is decent. it's output audio via regular headphone jacks so no messing around there. you will need a "red" DI box to convert the audio from the computer to the amp (amp accepts balanced audio over ethernet...the IO board does this so you'll have to sub the red DI box to do this.)

the card reader is worthless as it's been disabled due to new PCI credit card processing rules rules... making it non-compliant.

the stand should have woofers built into it... it should also have some satellite speakers attached to either side as well.

Sounds like I should keep the Angelina then, I really don't have an use for the stand. Im sending the acceptors today to a dealer that would update them to a regular non touchtunes firmware in order for me to use them as 12v pulse type.  Thats all that is left before I put it in a place to work.
The guy wants 600 DLLs for the virtuo wich is a great deal, but I don't have that kind a money right now.
Im hoping for a Christmas miracle on may hehehe