Main > Main Forum
Starting the cabinet all at once. It works! And here's how...
krick:
--- Quote from: SoundDoc on June 16, 2004, 02:39:20 pm ---What MB are you using? I'll take a look and find the best place to get it from.
--- End quote ---
I'm not really worried about me. I'll find standby power somewhere. Even if I have to dive into the power supply to find it. :)
I'm just concerned about other people who might not be a technically savvy.
I have 3 Pentium4 motherboards in my house. All have integrated LAN. Most new boards do as well. So the WOL header might be a problem.
My MAME cab is currently running on an ASUS P4S533 (the original version) but I may be swapping it with an ABIT IS7-E (original version) in the future.
UPDATE:
I found this diagram...
...on this page...
http://www.duxcw.com/faq/ps/ps1.htm
...that shows which wire (#9) on the ATX connector is the 5V standby. If all else fails and I can't find a convenient spot on the motherboard, I'll tap off of that wire.
I had a thought. It would be pretty cool to implement this circuit on a card that can be plugged into a PCI slot (without making any electrical connections).
krick:
--- Quote from: SoundDoc on June 16, 2004, 11:57:26 am ---Haven't built it up to test yet. Just did it on a coffee break, so its pretty rough, but this should do the job.
--- End quote ---
What's the deal with the 3 diodes in the circuit?
They're not listed in the parts list.
SoundDoc:
I'll have to fix that... ;)
The three diodes make up part of the trigger circuit. 2 isolate the two "triggers" and the third clamps the trigger signal from flying too high above vcc.
I'm changing it a bit as I go as well, adding here and there to make it more user friendly.
sd
SoundDoc:
I just wired it up, and it works just fine. ;D
Actually, heres a question on how you want it to operate. ???
1) It can trigger on every flick of the switch, no matter how fast you flick the switch.
2) it can trigger on every flick, but takes about 15 seconds for each "direction" of the switch to recycle before triggering again. This may come in handy if the computer on/off got out of sync with the cab on/off. (for in a case like Peales)
Actually, out of curiosity, because I've seen a couple other posts of yours, do you want the cab to turn on the pc, or the pc to turn on the cab?
This circuit will work great in a case where you don't want to mod the cabinet, and when it powers up the computer will, and when it turns off it will cycle the power button again, shutting down the computer. (I can also adjust it so a power on "presses" the power button for .5 seconds, and a power off "presses" the button for 4 or 5 seconds (hard power off).
But if your going to Mod the cabinet, to have the pc power also turn on the monitor, and marquee, wouldn't it be easier to just put in a momentary button, or if you wanted a toggle switch, use a STDP switch and wire the two ons to this circuit? You'd save 120vac wiring, and a 120vac relay.
Just curious what your frankensteining..... ;)
sd
krick:
--- Quote from: SoundDoc on June 16, 2004, 09:50:48 pm ---
Just curious what your frankensteining..... ;)
--- End quote ---
I, like Peale, want to keep the cabinet as close to stock as possible so that I can easily change it back to a dedicated single JAMMA game in the future. So I'd really like to have the cabinet control the PC via the stock toggle switch.
However, if that is too difficult to implement, I know that having the PC turn on the cabinet is far easier. Essentially, it requires a momentary pushbutton switch and a relay with a 12V coil that can be triggered off an ATX power connector and is capable of switching 120V AC.
My latest brainstorm is using an ATX power supply that has an auxillary AC outlet on the back. Vantec makes one that I *believe* is switched on and off with the PC. I think they just integrated a relay into the PS.
So, yes, as you've seen in some of my other posts, I'm exploring all avenues and will probably try them all see which one I like best.
As for your circuit and how it triggers... I don't think that triggering on every flick is a good idea for the reasons you mention. Basically, what happens when the PC on/off gets out of sync with the cab on/off? Like you say, there needs to be some sort of cycle time.
The idea about using the STDP toggle to trigger your circuit a good one too. In that case, since it's not connected to the mains power, you could use a transistor instead of a relay to make it cheaper.
Maybe I'll start a web page to document all these different methods so other people don't have to keep re-inventing the wheel.