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| steve_pss:
i've found plywood tends to shred, plus when slot cutting the middle laminate layer can tear.. pain to sand and seal.. i just dont like it. I use 3/4" CDX for the base and monitor shelf but the rest is built out of 3/4" and 1/2" MDF using drywall screws with the reversable countersink bit. wood fill the holes, sand, seal and and again and your ready to go. I use parts express vinyl for the CP and front pieces and paint the sides (tho laminate is nice as well). |
| DougHillman:
This question gets asked all the time (I even asked it myself a little whie ago to get some input before I started my next project.) You'll get answers stating that any of several different types of material is the best. I've come to the conclusion that all of the major choices are viable and which you use really comes down to personal choice. Particle Board: Inexpensive, medium weight. Needs priming/filling & sanding if you're going to paint it. Should have a 2x2 frame in the lower section to support the monitor and 1x1 real wood (1x2 or whatever) stringers for attaching pieces together. Many original cabinets were made from Particle Board, so obviously it's a useable material. Don't get it wet. MDF: inexpensive, HEAVY. Paintable without much prep. Messiest to work with. Plywood: Most expensive of the 3, lightest weight, overall the strongest. A good birch or ash faced ply won't need much prep before painting. Personally, I'd put a 2x2 frame in the lower half regardless of what material I'm using. Especially if you're using a big-ass monitor or TV. I'm using particle board for the two cabinets I'm currently building. The best compromise between weight & cost. I've seen plenty of 20 year old particle board cabinets that are still in fine shape (I own one, in fact), so I'm satisfied about its lasting power. D |
| Lilwolf:
Each option has their strong point MDF - pros - Cheap Easy to work with No sanding cons - HEAVY LOTS of sawdust no water... even a little can cause problems. Plywood - pros - very strong light cons - rough, expect hours of sanding or use lexan hard to screw into the end btw... you should use 3/4 no matter for when you want to use T-Molding. all other sized are specialized and more expensive. Also... Even thought MDF isn't as strong as plywood. 3/4 MDF is very strong. |
| Shredder:
Thanks for all the info guys.. If we ever get our F150 back to actually go out and buy the wood, since it probably wouldn't fit in the Explorer, I'll try and post some pictures as it's being built... The Monitor I hope to be using is a regular 25" TV, so I'll need something stable and strong enough to hold the thing. Don't want to hear a large CRASH one night as I'm sleeping :). We have a JROK Version 3 video converter hooked up to be Jamma connector for the TV.. |
| jimmyjet:
I have had great success using particle board. I use lots of glue, screws, and wherever possible, dadoe on panel into another. Routing the tmolding slot is easy in particle board. My biggest problems with the mdf are its screw holding ability and the dust (and I have an air cleaner and 1200 cfm dust collector in the shop). That is just my opinion. jimmyjet |
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