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| Tiger-Heli:
--- Quote from: bigmoe on April 05, 2004, 07:45:00 pm ---It works pretty neat, but you should know that I (and I imagine others, if some of the issues on other threads are due to the same thing) started experiencing interference issues at 6 feet. (Don't want to be a party pooper, just be aware ;).) --- End quote --- Did the problems go away when you re-connected the shield ground as you mentioned above? Or did you still have problems after this? Great suggestion on the shield ground, thanks! (And thanks for the compliments on the website). |
| bigmoe:
--- Quote from: Tiger-Heli on April 06, 2004, 08:40:44 am ---Did the problems go away when you re-connected the shield ground as you mentioned above? Or did you still have problems after this? --- End quote --- Yeah, I wasn't too clear, sorry. After connecting the shield ground, everything was (is) peachy. (I never connected it initially because I didn't know what it was.) My plan is to have a laptop box with swappable panels; the panels will connect to the wiring in the laptop box over 2-3 db9s (also facilitates modular, if I ever decided to go that route). The laptop box will connect with the IPAC center over db25s. I'm still prototyping, so I haven't gotten any farther than the db9's; no db25s yet. But considering my night-and-day experience with connecting the shielding ground on the db9s, I'm not expecting any problems. I should have some more permanent boxes built (I'm using cardboard now) and the db25s up and running in the next couple of weeks. One of the differences here is that I have the db9s cut in half, so I have easy access to the shielding ground wire. For the db25s, which I am using as extensions, I may have to solder a wire to the the metal db25 connector housing on the IPAC side, and run that to ground. Should be an easy connection, but I've never soldered before. Of course, it could be that you could just run a wire from ground to the housing and electrical tape it there, I dunno. (Yes, I know it's an unadvisable hack, but for the soldering-challenged....whatever works.) --- Quote ---Great suggestion on the shield ground, thanks! --- End quote --- Prolly will be my biggest contribution to the hobby ::). --- Quote ---(And thanks for the compliments on the website). --- End quote --- Well-deserved. I'm always amazed and grateful for the amount of knowledge around here (and associated websites) and everyone's willingness to share it and help out. I know that takes time, work, and probably money. But I think this little community, occasional conflicts notwithstanding (and as happen in any gathering of people) is an example of some of the best the Internet has to offer. b |
| Tiger-Heli:
--- Quote from: bigmoe on April 06, 2004, 12:48:38 pm ---Yeah, I wasn't too clear, sorry. After connecting the shield ground, everything was (is) peachy. (I never connected it initially because I didn't know what it was.) --- End quote --- Ah, cool - --- Quote ---My plan is to have a laptop box with swappable panels; the panels will connect to the wiring in the laptop box over 2-3 db9s (also facilitates modular, if I ever decided to go that route). The laptop box will connect with the IPAC center over db25s. --- End quote --- You probably read this in my FAQ's, and it's your controller, but I decided on multiple laptop (well desktop) boxes rather than swappable panels on one laptop box. The advantages - one DB25 cable to plug in per controller, and the controls can sit on the ground when not in use without damaging the wiring. Also, all I have to do is unplug the DB25 for the Joystick Panel and plug in the DB25 for the TriggerStick panel - no taking the CP top off, conecting several DB9's and connecting the top panel back to the base. Also, if you have multiple DB25's on the I-PAC, you could use the TriggerStick panel together with the Joystick panel, which you can't do if they're just CP tops. IMHO, the extra cost of the wood for the bases will be made up by not having to buy new DB9 cables (unless you have a ready source of these). --- Quote ---For the db25s, which I am using as extensions, I may have to solder a wire to the the metal db25 connector housing on the IPAC side, and run that to ground. . . but for the soldering-challenged....whatever works.) --- End quote --- I'm soldering challenged too. Most DB25's had a #4-40 screw on either side of the connector to keep the connectors screwed together. (Sometimes a #4-40 screw with a threaded barrel on the end.) Couldn't you just unscrew this and put a small ring crimp terminal on the wire, or just wrap the wire around the screw and tighten it back down to electrically ground the wire to the housing? --- Quote ---But I think this little community, occasional conflicts notwithstanding (and as happen in any gathering of people) is an example of some of the best the Internet has to offer. --- End quote --- Agreed, I'm amazed and proud how usually the simplest to the most difficult question can be asked on here and get a willing and accurate answer. I've been on a lot of other message boards that weren't this way. (www.mame.net - Serious, for example). |
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