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A 12v delay relay that activates from a switch

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PL1:

--- Quote from: mrbee on May 08, 2025, 10:08:27 am ---EDIT - I have figured out my mistake. I attached the zener diode so that the "in1, or "trigger" input is downgraded to a 5v signal. This module requires a 12v signal input, I have to connect the zener diode to the right side output of the relay to the zero delay joystick module.

--- End quote ---
The module needs a 12v input so you don't need a zener diode for the green line.

You don't need a zener diode for the red and purple because they are 5v lines.


Scott

mrbee:
thank you again for your reply.
I dont know whats up with me. I can look at the diagram all day long (am currently in bed still puzzling over it before i go to sleep lol) when it comes to connecting it to the actual devices, you could swear ive never seen that diagram in my life XD

like its so simple to follow as well but today im like.. "in1".. is that why its not working? is this not a trigger? why is a active low relay not triggering with an active low signal?
(adjusts header to active high).. "right now it should work"...

doesnt work..

so i get stuck at that point researching the module again if i got the right one.

i think whats thrown me off track is my colourblindness, firstly i see the green line and the green dotted line. but the line also to the zero delay unit looks green to me. but it is red.
so in my mind is "green is 5v".

in the diagram it shows the zener diode connected to the trigger of the 12v active low module. so im thinking then "aha! so the trigger must be 5v for the whole circuit as the trigger for the timer delay module activated at 5v. and 5v must go to the zero delay panel, it must also be 5v for the active high/low unit... right?

the module has a 12v trigger and outputs 12v.

this module in the "in1" its only a 12v trigger that activated it, so it wasnt activating the relay when the timer was triggered, the timer works for a 5v trigger, but it has to be 12v for the other relay. making me then think its not working..

so if the coin mech outputs 12v, then this is all good. ive just stumbled over my own feet.

my mistake for testing it without the mech (i tested with just a 12v supply for the circuit and a 5v line inbetween a manual button switch to simulate a 5v trigger).

tomorrow evening i will properly get it all connected and should be all good to go.
just wish my brain would delete all of the useless info built up over the years and get this diagram in there permanently.

this and lighting circuits always confuse me for some reason i have no idea why!!

my only concern is the 12v relay, this is being triggered by a 12v signal from the mech, but the zero delay unit cant have 12v going through it, so im thinking.. the zener needs to be applied to the right side (the "no" output of the relay)..

im probably totally gettng this wrong again.

i will check 1) as you say with the jumper of the -dc to the in1 to see if it triggers (there is a jumper i can switch between high and low)
2) just connect everything as you say and not overthink it XD

PL1:

--- Quote from: mrbee on May 08, 2025, 05:19:07 pm ---i think whats thrown me off track is my colourblindness, firstly i see the green line and the green dotted line. but the line also to the zero delay unit looks green to me. but it is red.

--- End quote ---
Sorry about my confusing color choices.   :embarassed:

How about orange instead of green?


--- Quote from: mrbee on May 08, 2025, 05:19:07 pm ---my only concern is the 12v relay, this is being triggered by a 12v signal from the mech, but the zero delay unit cant have 12v going through it, so im thinking.. the zener needs to be applied to the right side (the "no" output of the relay).

--- End quote ---
With a relay, the coil side (VCC, GND, and IN1) on the left of this relay diagram is electrically separate from the contacts side (COM, NO, and NC) on the right.



The coil side is like your hand moving a light switch and the contact side is like the wiring contacts for the light switch.

When you turn a light switch on and off, the switch contacts move (mechanical control of the connection), but the electricity to power the light does not flow through your hand or the part of the switch lever that you touch. (no electrical connection between your hand and the wiring)

Your active low relay has 12v on the coil side coming from the 12v power in and the coin mech signal line.
- The contacts side has the 5v COM coming from the ZD encoder and wires leading from NO to the 5v inputs on the encoder and timer relay.
- The 12v on the coil side is electrically separate from the 5v on the contacts side so there's no need for a zener diode on the contacts side.
- You would only need a zener diode to regulate the 12v signal line from the coin mech down to 5v if you had a relay module input that would be damaged by 12v.

Your timer relay's coil side uses 12v to power the coil and a 5v control input.
- The module's circuit design keeps the 12v operating voltage for the relay from feeding back through the 5v input line
- The contacts side uses 12v on COM to power the beacon on NO.
- The 12v is only on the COM terminal because you connected an external wire with 12v to the COM terminal.  It did not come through the relay's coil side circuit.


Scott

mrbee:
That is exactly what I was confused about thank you! For some reason I figured that 12v going into the relay means 12v coming out of the relay, not understanding that COMs voltage is determined by what you put into it from the other devices.

Your colour choices are spot on, its just me. I didnt realise until it was night time and my phone screen was bright and I could see its a different shade of green, and confirmed then that this different shade is indeed red XD Its very embarrassing when my kids are colouring in and im asking them what colour the pens are and my 6 year old is holding the pen up to me saying  slowly "this one is greeeeeen!".

im going to wire this up tomorrow at work when its quiet and confirm its all good!
ive been building the base unit today.

thank you very much again!

mrbee:
Edited -
everything is working except for my timer relay.
this particular relay only triggers from 6v to 36v for some reason. Totally overlooked this when purchasing it.

itl activate if you used 2 aa 1.5v batteries but 5v from the zero delay.. nothing.

i have ordered a step up module to bring 5v to 6v between the zero delay and the trigger so fingers crossed that will work.
failing that I have another time relay on the way that activates with 5v
itl take about a week or so to arrive so will check back then hopefully with it fitted in to the base

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