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| Modular controls panel discussion |
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| neuromancer:
Instead of printed vinyl, I would print on paper, and have it laminated with THICK plastic on the top, and self adhesive on the back. It looks and feels like the die printed plastic of the 80s, but it's a lot cheaper. Bob |
| Xiaou2:
heres a rough proto for a spring pressure clamp locking system. Yellow = The happs spring loaded control panel clamps Lt Blue = Cabnet and Bolts Red = Pressure plate (needs some refinements) Green = special slide drawer Purple = Controller with shell surround Dk Blue = wire from controller & inside cab (plus connectors) Purple = 2*4 to mount spring clamp hooks to |
| neuromancer:
I've got it. All you need to do is build each module into a box instead of a panel. If the "panel" is a box 3 to 4 inches deep, then all you need to do is build a box into the cabinet to recieve them. You will be able to pull them from the cabinet with no mechanism and without effort, but it will be impossible to move them through game play. Bob |
| Xiaou2:
almost.. you see... if you didnt have a locking mechanism in place, youd might end up pulling the control boxes upwards at times... possibly dislodging the wires. Thats why Ive designed a spring pressure system. It clamps the control boxes with a slight pressure so that they will not fly out or rattle arround. Building the mini boxes will also help to protect the assemblies from damages durring transit and swaps. |
| l8nite:
Seems like a pretty solid idea, what are you building the control module boxes out of? Seems like using even 1/2" MDF or plywood is still taking up quite a huge portion of the space in your 'receiver box'. Could you get the same benefit (protect components and provide some support) by just building two sides of the box (front and back)? I'm about to start building my modules this weekend (got most of the cab finished this past weekend, woo hoo), so the more discussion that happens here the better! -Shaun |
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