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Modular controls panel discussion
SirPoonga:
--- Quote from: Doc- on August 12, 2004, 04:17:10 pm ---
--- Quote from: SirPoonga on August 12, 2004, 03:08:55 am ---As for securing the joysticks - Jello's rail system clearly works great, but mine system does too. Its a matter of preference. I like the ease of being able to swap a single panel out by just popping it out. I'm frequently changing the center panel between spinner and various specialty joysticks.
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True, I didn't elaborate and why I like jello's rail system. Yours works, but it will only work with a specific setup. you need a lip to put the panels under. While with the rail system it wouldn't matter how your cabinet was designed.
I'm not saying yours is bad, I'm just saying why I like jelloslug's.
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goofy:
This was a great discussion/brainstorming of Modular panel ideas. I'd love to hear more about this stuff as it's the direction I'm leaning for my first project. I've seen Doc's panel and I think I like that one the best although my concern is the panel widths, dowel holes and dowels all have to be so precise otherwise you get gaps or other problems. So, I'm still looking for another idea.
I've been thinking about slots the you can slide the panels into and then something to snug them all together. That still leaves securing the other two directions to deal with (basically you have to secure side-to-side, front-to-back and up-and-down).
If there are any other modular control panel designers out there, post links here to your projects, home page or forum discussion.
Thanks and keep it going.
telengard:
--- Quote from: goofy on August 25, 2004, 04:26:09 pm ---This was a great discussion/brainstorming of Modular panel ideas. I'd love to hear more about this stuff as it's the direction I'm leaning for my first project. I've seen Doc's panel and I think I like that one the best although my concern is the panel widths, dowel holes and dowels all have to be so precise otherwise you get gaps or other problems. So, I'm still looking for another idea.
I've been thinking about slots the you can slide the panels into and then something to snug them all together. That still leaves securing the other two directions to deal with (basically you have to secure side-to-side, front-to-back and up-and-down).
If there are any other modular control panel designers out there, post links here to your projects, home page or forum discussion.
Thanks and keep it going.
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I have a modular panel and I don't have to worry about precise cuts as much. I use standard rack mount blanker panel parts which are very standard. They fit together perfectly and are *extremely* sturdy. Being secure was numero uno for me since I tend to be a little hard on the controls. The only downside is that they need to be screwed down which doesn't bother me. Takes about 1-2 minutes tops to change to a whole new panel now that I'm using ethernet cables to plug the modules in. For the flexibility and sturdiness it's well worth it, for me at least.
I've also gone for as much authenticity as I can for controls buying old unique stuff like the Tapper handle joystick, Galaga 2 way, etc. I couldn't figure out a way to do the artwork, plus I have *zero* artistic ability so I just use black pica vinyl and to me it looks quite good.
The other modular setups are very good and creative and there are probably more ideas folks haven't though of yet.
Here's my link http://users.adelphia.net/~bsturk/mame.html
Good luck with your cabinet!
Doc-:
--- Quote from: goofy on August 25, 2004, 04:26:09 pm ---This was a great discussion/brainstorming of Modular panel ideas. I'd love to hear more about this stuff as it's the direction I'm leaning for my first project. I've seen Doc's panel and I think I like that one the best although my concern is the panel widths, dowel holes and dowels all have to be so precise otherwise you get gaps or other problems. So, I'm still looking for another idea.
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I shared many of the same concerns you had when I started. In fact, I almost stopped several times and went back to my static panel because I thought this whole thing would never work. I also thought I was never going to be able to secure the panels without mounting screws. However, once I had the dowel rails installed and fit the first 5-6 panels into the rails, I realized that this crazy idea actually might work. It did.
I have come up with a modification that can make the modular panels easier to build. If you put a front dowel rail in that is perpendicular to the panels (just like the back one is) it makes it much easier to drill the panels since all panel holes are now vertical into the panel.
On my original case, I could not implement this idea because I had pre-existing pinball buttons that interfered.
As for the rest, you do need access to a table saw to cut the panels, but once you set the table saw up for a given panel size, you can run them all through in a few minutes. If you can borrow a table saw and mark the wood in advance you could probably cut all of the panels in an hour or two at most. Obviously you cut the panel just shy of the desired width (say 1/16" less than the desired width).
I know that the holes can be cut without a drill press, since I had to do so for several of the larger panels (my tiny drill press was not deep enough). The key here is to carefully measure the holes and then start with your smallest drill size to drill an accurate pilot hole. Then move to a medium one, and finally the full drill size. Use some tape wrapped around the drill bits to make sure you don't drill too deep.
Fitting the panels is also worth some discussion. The vast majority of the panels don't fit perfectly the first time you pop them in. I used a pencil to mark the holes that did not match well and then a drill bit to auger out the holes a bit until I arrived at a good fit. It takes a little bit of patience at first, but by the end I could fit a panel very quickly with no slop.
I'm sure there are many other ways to do this - (there are 5-6 other examples cited in this thread) but I wanted wood panels that I could make in the garage and remove from the system with no tools. Hopefully someone can take the basic idea and simplify it even further.
spidermonkey:
Paige, Q-bert sticks were made by Suzo. Look on the underside of the mounting plate. It should have this stamped into it "STC ROTTERDAM 22-0265" Also, the black ball top on a Q-bert stick is much smaller then the typical balltops.