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Materials: MDF vs. Particleboard?

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DougHillman:

Are there any serious drawbacks to using plain particleboard (sometimes called underlayment) instead of MDF?  I'm building a largish 4-player cab for a friend and would like to keep the weight down as much as possible.  I'm planning on building an internal frame from 2x2"s so strength isn't going to be an issue.   The finish will be some form of vinyl (contact paper), so paintability isn't really going to come into play here either.  

How's the routability of particleboard?  I've routed slots in the edge of some before (such as is needed for T-molding) with no problems, but I haven't done any other routing in that material.  Along those same lines, how well does plain 3/4" plywood router for the T-molding slots?  Plywood should be even lighter than the particleboard, but I'm a little worried about chunks of the layers tearing out when doing the slots.


Thanks.

D


TalkingOctopus:

I don't have any experience with particle board, but I just wanted to say that some hardware stores sell a light weight MDF in addition to the normal.  However, it is more expensive.  Keep an eye out for that.  My local HomeDepot carried it.

Also, I think that a majority of the weight comes from the monitor, especially if you are going to use a 27".  I built a 4 player cab out of MDF based on Lusid's plan.  When moving around my cab without the TV inside, it is not that heavy - just bulky.  However, once the TV is inside, it barely budges.  I put 3" casters on the bottom, and that greatly helps the mobility of the cab.

good luck!

Lilwolf:

Also note... it will be TOP heavy... nothing like bumping into it.. and realizing the center of gravity is inside the monitor.... and once it starts to go... it'll keep on going.

Making it so the monitor can be removed easier and safer is a better bet then trying to come up with a different wood type...  (not saying that MDF is the way to go... its just known to work well).

Also consider not going with a 2x2 frame.  Going with woodglue and 1x1's should be enought.  The frame will never be good for much other then holding the joints together.  When completed... your box will be stronger the the internal frame.  And you will probalby not have as nice of joints in the end.

FractalWalk:

Personally, I would never use particle board. It doesn't adhere to itself very well. So if you ever neeed to remove and replace fasteners, the anchor points start to crumble. In this regard MDF holds up better, plywood even more so.  

As far as "routability", particle board is OK (I use it for my practice cuts). MDF holds a much cleaner edge, but if you will be covering your work with molding or artwork, then you might find particle board an acceptable alternative.

If weight is the over-riding factor, I'd go with plywood. I haven't had much experience with routing plywood, but I would think slots cuts would be no problem.  Cross-cuts might be another story.


NoOne=NBA=:

I did have a bit of trouble with my T-molding using plywood.
The router bit I used was perfect for 1X, but took out an entire layer of the plywood.
This left the inside radius curves a little loose, but a bit of epoxy tightened them right up.

That said, I would personally recommend a framing/plywood approach.
I don't know that you really need a FULL frame like I built, but I will bet my cabinet outlives me by several generations.
My cabinet has ZERO wobble to it, and would probably withstand direct blows from a sledgehammer on the lower portion where it is heavily framed.
 
If you look at the really old cabinets (Space Invaders Deluxe being the best I've seen), they are built like tanks.
The SID cabinets were actually built out of marine-grade plywood.
I've never seen one of them yet that had the "wobble" inherent in most of the newer cabinets, and they are pretty much immune to water damage on the bottom as well.

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