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Help with Sportcraft Turbo Hockey no sound
damagd:
Thanks for the help. I've numbered the pads to provide clarity. So when the switch is up, there is connectivity between 1 to 2, 3 to 4, 5 to 6, 3 to 5, 4 to 6, 3 to 6, and 4 to 5. Those are the only connections when touching all possibilities. When the switch is pushed down there is connectivity between 1 to 2, 1 to 3, 1 to 4, and 2 to 3. That's it. I'm assuming that the switch is working based on the results when it is either pushed down or up. If that's true, then I guess my next step would be to access the speakers. I can take the arch off of the table and separate the two black posts from the grey plastic speaker assembly, but it is snapped together tight and there are no screws holding it together. I don't want to break it, so maybe I will pick up a plastic prying tool kit that they make for computer bezels and phones.
RandyT:
--- Quote from: damagd on November 20, 2024, 04:23:58 pm ---Thanks for the help. I've numbered the pads to provide clarity. So when the switch is up, there is connectivity between 1 to 2, 3 to 4, 5 to 6, 3 to 5, 4 to 6, 3 to 6, and 4 to 5. Those are the only connections when touching all possibilities. When the switch is pushed down there is connectivity between 1 to 2, 1 to 3, 1 to 4, and 2 to 3. That's it. I'm assuming that the switch is working based on the results when it is either pushed down or up. If that's true, then I guess my next step would be to access the speakers. I can take the arch off of the table and separate the two black posts from the grey plastic speaker assembly, but it is snapped together tight and there are no screws holding it together. I don't want to break it, so maybe I will pick up a plastic prying tool kit that they make for computer bezels and phones.
--- End quote ---
Ok, switch is fine. I think you need to look at the pcb responsible for generating the audio before looking at the speaker. Make sure all of the wires and components are properly soldered down and nothing on the PCB looks like it has burned or experienced excessive heat (usually indicated by physical damage to the component, like browning, charring, holes, etc.) Keep in mind that these are just the simple things to look for. It's very likely that a component has failed somewhere on that board, and could require a schematic and/or very specific and possibly unobtainable parts to effect a repair. And components can be dead with no visual indications that this is the case.
*Edit* Also look for corrosion on any connections, no matter how slight. This can build up and eat it's way between solder joints, especially in the case of lead-free solder. Most repair folks will hit any crusty looking joints with leaded solder after cleaning, just to ensure a good connection.