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Looking for some advice
Sedistik:
yamatetsu, I checked those links before. Not seeing the example I was hoping.
PL1, I am very sure that will be incorporated into the design. Thank you.
minorhero, MartyKong, I will have ports for controllers - but mainly for some old console games. But I still want control panels for Gauntlet (and a few other games).
I do think the panels for players 3 and 4 can be smaller, since they will be in storage more than being connected.
Just starting with the main 2 player center (as soon as I figure out what controllers and buttons to get).
minorhero:
When building my own cabinet, I found it helpful to focus on the type of game I most cared about and then trying to recreate the look and feel of that game's control board.
You could just use any 8-way stick you like for your cabinet. But if you wanted to build it around gauntlet, then the original atari joysticks for that game are sorta still around in that you can find people selling the old ones. They usually need to be rebuilt as they have parts inside that wear out and you will pay quite the premium for having 'originals'.
Alternatively, people use Wico 8 way joysticks, sanwa joysticks or ultrimark 360 ball top joysticks depending on their preference with the wico being 'closest' to the original design used according to random people talking about it on the internet. :P
The buttons near as I can tell are generally just leaf switch buttons of which there are a bunch of options for colors and whether you want them to light up with leds etc. Hopefully that's helpful.
Biggest piece of advice I have is to make a to scale drawing of your cabinet before buying wood or starting to cut anything. I did this in Sketchup (free 3d modeling software) but there is nothing wrong with graph paper if you prefer. That way you can figure out a lot of the joinery issues you will have in advance as well as make sure you don't accidentally make it impossible to put a monitor in or have some other roadblock. Good luck.
PL1:
--- Quote from: Sedistik on October 17, 2024, 01:59:45 pm ---I do think the panels for players 3 and 4 can be smaller, since they will be in storage more than being connected.
--- End quote ---
There are pros and cons to splitting up the P3/P4 pedestal.
Pros:
- It's easier to move smaller, lighter pedestals.
Cons:
- It's easier to accidently move smaller, lighter pedestals while playing two player dual joystick games like Smash TV. If both sticks for the second player are on one panel, their relative position and orientation is fixed instead of variable.
https://wiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/Joysticks#Games_with_Dual_Joysticks
- More electronics (2 encoders, 2 feedthrus, etc.), wood (4 side panels), and work to make two smaller pedestals vs. one larger one.
Either way, a design feature that you might want to include is two fixed casters mounted on the back of each pedestal so you can tilt and roll it instead of lifting or sliding it. Depending on the type of caster you use, you can mount them on an angled board or on the back/bottom like these.
https://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,114774.msg1217060.html#msg1217060
You may also want to include an arcade cabinet handle for easier grip while tilting and rolling.
Scott
Sedistik:
I appreciate the input, and I will take almost all coments into consideration (unless it's about inverted controls - I am too old to change my mind on that).
One of the big reasons I want to make it modular, is I know one day (possibly soon) I will kick the bucket and my kids will want to take the arcade(s). So, they need to be able to get it out of here and across the country without too many issues. I built a 5ft x 9ft gaming table (RPG/board games) for them years ago, and that bastard will probably not be leaving the basement in my lifetime (honestly, I would build a new one if I moved rather than try to get that out of here). It was multiple pieces, but I had to remove the doors and the molding to get the damn main body from the garage into the basement. It's beat to hell now (I use it for everything, and could use some repair - but I want to build a bunch of gaming tables instead - squirrel).
So, arcade-1 needs to be something that is not too difficult to move. I am going to mock up the controls before cutting anything (probably use cardboard, cause that’s easy to grab - but scrap wood is easy also). I do want to refine the layout of the indiviual control panel sections, and verify the spacing. It's not like I will have a lot of buttons on the panel - I just don't want the jerk next to me in my space. I need to man-spread, and it's my house. It will be a pedestal design (not a retro cabinet). I can appreciate the look of many restro cabinets - but I think the pedestal is what will suit my needs (I currently have an xbox series x and Switch on a cart with a TV that I can roll around, and I love that design). I will probably have a TV on a stand that can be attached to the main control panel (once again - I need it something the kids can break down easily). TV size will be difficult - It has to be big enough for 4 guys to play games on, but small enough that I can rotate it for some games (1942 without smacking the ceiling - my basement is a little shorter than I would prefer). I did see a lot of very interesting ideas for that, and i think that should be simple enough (pedestal gives me a bit more freedom for that idea).
I like retro, but not like CRT retro. It's like cars. While I can appreciate the old look and feel, and I may hate some new features (like my car beeping at me because I crossed a line). I sure do like some features of new vehicles (like all-wheel-drive, power-steering and heated seats). Modern retro is what I really want (like pausing a game cause the dog ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- on the floor and I don't want to smell it - but I want to start over).
I did say arcade-1, because I do want to build a small pinball table, and probably a big sit-down one for driving and flight-based games (that one will probably be more for modern games). That's if I live long enough and this first project goes smooth.
Trying to focus now... I have narrowed most of my ideas down, and it's really just fine-tuning some stuff. I am going to try to stick to Ultimarc for as many of the control panel parts as possible (because I keep reading good things about them). My main issue is finally picking the joystick and the button I really want. No spinners, no light guns, no paddles or coins machines.
For the joystick, it is down to the UltraStik 360 or the ServoStik. I like the idea of the UltraStik, but this is more for MAME and less console (most old console games will end up with controllers via USB ports), so I think the ServoStik might be better. But I did see something about the ServoStik plate working on an UltraStik recently. So now I need to do more research. I like the idea of a toggle switch for the ServoStik (like old NASA rockets), or maybe having the game configure it as it starts.
As for the buttons - still determining the exact number. Leaning towards the 6 button layouts (plus some admin buttons behind a protective shield or off the to the side). I don't think i care if the buttons are concave or convex to be honest. I think the convex might be more comfortable (and less dirt collection in the middle). Maybe i will pick up a few cheap ones just for a test (cheaper than my Warhammer or 3D printing hobbies).
I just want a specific look. I want LED lights with the buttons, but i do not want to light up the entire basement, or to go blind from all the glowy blinky ---steaming pile of meadow muffin---. I want black buttons, where the ring has a glow when the button is enabled for a game. Think like a back-lit keyboard. Playing pac-man, then no glow. Playing Killer Instinct, or Guantlet - then some buttons glow.
Also debating if i should go all black for consistancy. Or different color buttons for documentation (yeah, I will probably make notes of which button does what with what game).
I am trying to make a list of games, but the Wiki links don't seem to work. Need to find time to research that some more. I won't be loading hundreds or thousands of games into the system. I will load them one at a time, and confirm I have them configured before I add any more.
But, I have been lurking for many months (created my account 2 months ago, but was lurking before that). And I finally have enough money set aside for controlls, so i need to get going on those, before my truck breaks down, or the wife decides the kids get more for the hollidays (I am working a 2nd job just for my damn hobbies, and I have not been buying any of that stuff for a bit).
PL1:
--- Quote from: Sedistik on October 17, 2024, 09:50:03 pm ---So, arcade-1 needs to be something that is not too difficult to move.
--- End quote ---
That's why I mentioned several caster options.
--- Quote from: Sedistik on October 17, 2024, 09:50:03 pm ---It will be a pedestal design (not a retro cabinet).
--- End quote ---
I only used the render of an upright to show how the casters were attached on an angled board.
Since you want to make the pedestal a bit wider to allow you to "manspread", you might want to put the casters on the side instead of the back so the pedestal is easier to roll through doorways.
--- Quote from: Sedistik on October 17, 2024, 09:50:03 pm ---I will probably have a TV on a stand that can be attached to the main control panel
--- End quote ---
You don't need to attach the stand to the control panel -- just run an HDMI cable from the TV to the main pedestal.
By not attaching the stand to the panel, it will be easier to re-position the pedestals so everyone has a good view during multi-player games.
--- Quote from: Sedistik on October 17, 2024, 09:50:03 pm ---I want black buttons, where the ring has a glow when the button is enabled for a game.
--- End quote ---
The easy way is to use LED buttons with translucent button bodies and black plungers like these. (available in a variety of colors)
If you want to do it the hard way, maybe do something like Ninjasquirrel did for his Black Ops bartop build? (2013 UCA winner)
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,101426.msg1073169.html#msg1073169
Since you mentioned 3d printing, you might be able to print plungers like Ninjasquirrel's using a dual extruder system or inserting a pause for filament change into the gcode.
--- Quote from: Sedistik on October 17, 2024, 09:50:03 pm ---I am trying to make a list of games, but the Wiki links don't seem to work. Need to find time to research that some more. I won't be loading hundreds or thousands of games into the system.
--- End quote ---
Yeah . . . when Saint restored the wiki, he put it on a different domain name which broke every hard-coded URL to the old "newwiki" domain. :banghead: I'd update the links, but since the new server isn't configured to accept image uploads, it isn't worth the effort to make a ton of changes that could be lost if Saint ever decides that the only way to fix the wiki is to reload it from the backup.
If a link contains "newwiki", change it to "wiki" and it will work.
These links should get you to the game lists you were looking for:
https://wiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=Multi-Player_Games
https://wiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/Joysticks#Games_with_Dual_Joysticks
https://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,129295.msg1327639.html#msg1327639
https://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,149708.0.html
If you want to add a pedestal with "Ikari Warriors"-style rotary joysticks - https://wiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/Joysticks#Mechanical_Rotary_Joystick_Games_.28LS-30.2C_Happ_Mechanical_Rotary_Sticks.29
If you want to add a pedestal with an analog joystick - https://wiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/Joysticks#Analog_Joysticks
Scott