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| Neotec NT-500DX Repair |
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| Rocketeer2001:
Ah, yes that makes sense. I'm feeling a little lazy now, so I'll skip that IC test and just hope for the best with the cap replacements. I ordered the caps and now we wait. For anyone else that needs to assemble a cap kit for one of these monitors, here's a complete list I compiled: CHASSIS BOARD C504 400v, 330uf C510 50v, 4.7uf C545 35v, 68uf * C582 50v, 10uf C951 50v, 1uf C953 50v, 1uf C948 50v, 1uf C935 50v, 1uf C952 50v, 1uf C901 50v, 4.7uf C907 50v, 10uf C922 16v, 22uf C585 16v, 100uf C523 25v, 100uf C505 16v, 100uf C949 50v, 1uf C910 50v, 10uf C922 16v, 22uf C519 25v, 470uf C527 16v, 100uf C507 16v, 100uf C525 16v, 1000uf * C501 25v, 470uf C530 25v, 1000uf * C520 160v, 22uf * C521 100v, 330uf * C305 25v, 470uf C325 25v, 100uf C323 25v, 1000uf C744 100v, 47uf * C745 16v, 22uf C722A 200v, 22uf C722 200v, 22uf C623 16v, 22uf C601 16v, 100uf C607 16v, 47uf C612 50v, 4.7uf C613 50v, 4.7uf C615 16v, 47uf C715 50v, 4.7uf C773 50v, 4.7uf C774 50v, 4.7uf C772 50v, 4.7uf * C704 50v, 10uf C703 35v, 100uf NECK BOARD C276 200v, 22uf * C263 250v, 1uf, NP *can be 400v 1 uf C203 250v, 1uf, NP * C233 250v, 1uf, NP C274 16v, 47uf C272 16v, 47uf C270 16v, 47uf C290 16v, 47uf C292 16v, 47uf * C280 16v, 47uf C279 16v, 47uf * C244 25v, 22uf C288 25v, 22uf C296 16v, 220uf * INPUT SIGNAL BOARD C105 16v, 100uf * = caps that cannot be physically larger due to space limitations TOTAL OF EACH SIZE (1) 400v, 330uf (3) 250v, 1uf, NP (3) 200v, 22uf (1) 100v, 47uf (1) 100v, 330uf (1) 160v, 22uf (4) 50v, 10uf [8] 50v, 4.7uf (6) 50v, 1uf (1) 35v, 68uf (1) 35v, 100uf (2) 25v, 1000uf (3) 25v, 470uf (2) 25v, 100uf (2) 25v, 22uf (1) 16v, 1000uf (1) 16v, 220uf (6) 16v, 100uf (4) 16v, 22uf (9) 16v, 47uf TOTAL = 60 |
| lilshawn:
if you need to replace high voltage non-polarized caps, and are unable to source them (often 50v is the most you can get these days) you can take 2 of an acceptable voltage rating.... but DOUBLE the uF rating... for instance if you need a non-polarized 1uf cap with a 200v rating, then get two 2.2uf 200v caps which will be close enough then take the 2 negative leads and solder them together and insulate the lead (solder mask, glue, paint, nail polish, whatever). this will give you a capacitor with 2 "positive" leads that you can use in place of the non-polarized cap. |
| Rocketeer2001:
Shawn, that's a handy tip in the event I need to replace those non-polar caps; I didn't know that could be done, so thank you very much for that info! For now, it seems I don't have to worry about those because I replaced all the caps with the exception of those 3 non-polar ones on the neck board, and I re-used the big filter cap (C504) and.... it turns on!!!!! ;D These caps were definitely bad: C272 C525 C276 C585, C527, C507, C505 These ones were surprisingly ok and sometimes even better than my new ones: C296 C325 C744 C521 C922, C623 C907, C582, C910, C704 All other caps were low on their uf rating or had a higher ESR reading, and was just time for them to be replaced. Initially the screen was mostly white with some raster lines, so I turned down the 'screen' brightness on the flyback and there was the good ol' "No Signal" message! I then tried to fiddle with the focus on the flyback because the image looked a bit fuzzy. Didn't seem to matter which way I turned it, it either got fuzzier or less fuzzy. Then I remembered reading a post where someone else had a similar issue and the solution was to remove the glass and clean it and the monitor. It worked! Glass and screen were both gross. A couple final issues: 1. Looks like the image has barrel distortion (curling in at the corners). Not sure if this will go away after it has a proper signal and not just the "no signal" message. 2. Image is rotated a bit. On the D9200 it had a pot on the chassis board for adjusting this, but I don't see one on this board. Is this something I can adjust in the OSD menu? 3. The menu doesn't pop up when I push the 'menu' button on the switch board. I'm going to go test the switches to make sure they work. Perhaps they only function when a signal is present? |
| lilshawn:
great, glad to know you got it sorted out! yes, the menu only displays when the signal is present... as the adjustments you make are specific to that resolution. and each resolution has its own settings. |
| Rocketeer2001:
I can't tell you how happy I was that it just fired up and I don't have to mess around hunting down transistors, resistors, or mosfets. So far, I'm a fan of the Neotec over the D9200 and I haven't even played a game on it yet! I rewatched that first video from youtube I posted. Near the end he goes through the OSD menu and it has all the adjustments I need to correct the issues I'm seeing. I'll wheel this machine over beside the other one tomorrow to hook up the game board and see how it looks before I do the big swap. Any tips or tricks I should know about removing/handling a monitor? |
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