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| Feedback Req on cocktail plans please |
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| Tilzs:
--- Quote from: Blakey on March 08, 2004, 02:25:39 am ---Oh, Tilz, three things, 1) Awesome cab 2) Your button layout on the end CP's, what's the numbering? 1 234? --- End quote --- 4 123 Thinking was that there are few games that use 4 buttons that are have a vert orientation so the 4th button wasn't overly imporant to be in line with the others and I didn't want a line of 4 buttons. Even games that do use 4 buttons, the 4th is usually some special power that isn't used all that often anyhow. I was thinking of doing this but decided to do the other route. 34 12 --- Quote from: Blakey on March 08, 2004, 02:25:39 am --- I plan on having 4 buttons on each end CP, but haven't decided on the layout, so many possibilities... 12 34 1 2 3 4 2 1 4 3 34 12 Or something I haven't thought of yet. 3) And the two sticks on each end CP, what's the deal with that? P1P2 or both for P1, or do you plan to have one a 4 way and one an 8 way, both wired together? --- End quote --- Well the thinking on the ends was this. I really like smash tv and total carnage so I wanted the cab to be able to play those games as 2 player. Both of those are 8 way sticks, but I would like to replace one of them with a switchable 4/8 way ultimarc at somepoint here soon. I just need to save up some money. The other thing that one could do is use each stick as the controller as left/right handed. It's not really that big of a deal to me. The other reason there is 2 sticks on there is that the cp is pretty long and there is a lot of room on the side so I can fit 2 sticks on there. One other thought I had was I could eventually replace one of the sticks with a spinner on one end and on the other end with a small trackball. I may do that someday but for now I'm pefectly happy with my cab. Or I could just redo redo the control panels at somepoint because they are only attached with the hinged bottom so they come off fairly easily by just takeing out about 6 screws. The real advantage is I designed the end cps long so I dont' have to worry about not having enough room for controls for whatever changes I would like to make. You might want to take that into consideration for your end cps as well if future control pannel changes are something you might want to do. |
| Blakey:
Plans almost finalised. I'm having trouble finding CNC routers in Brisbane, but have called a number of laser cutters who say they can do it, so I've emailed plans to a few of them for quotes. Edit, don't know why I bothered attaching that, it's almost identical to the other one. Most of the changes have been made on the cut layout and aren't reflected on the projection. Twit. |
| Blakey:
Seeing as that last reply was so poor, here's the updated control panels. I've shortened the two player one from 744mm down to either 680 or 644, unsure as to if there's enough space on the 644mm long one. I'm leaning towards the diamond arrangement for the end CP's, as it's easier to use the 1/2 buttons, and the vast majority of vertical games use 0/1/2 buttons. Still undecided as to where to place the P1/P2 start buttons (full size, little men type), the coin door is under the P1 short CP, so perhaps there, otherwise somewhere on the long CP I guess. Thanks for all the help so far, it's been invaluable. Andrew |
| Tilzs:
I wanted to use the little men buttons on my cocktail as well but I ended up useing the small buttons since there just wasnt' enough room on my cp. One thing to keep in mind with a coindoor on a cocktail is that if you keep the mechs on it, account for that and make sure your monitor will still fit. |
| Blakey:
I already have my coin door, and the blue box on the diagram represents the height, width and depth of the most protruding parts. It was to be mounted on the long sides, but it doesn't work when tilted, and would have hit the monitor there. As I'm planning on powdercoating my sheet metal CP's I will have to use the little men, I'll play around a little more and work out where to fit them. I may just make the CP's a bit deeper. |
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