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| Ond:
--- Quote from: jmike on May 03, 2024, 08:42:52 pm ---Been gone for a while but glad to see some of the legends are still around. Looking great as always Ond. :applaud: --- End quote --- Great to hear from you jmike! I'm glad as well to see other byoac long timers still checking in. I'm putting everything I've learned in the hobby into this project as well as new things. My project keeps me posting here, but there's some other cool builds going on as well that keep me interested. :cheers: --- Quote from: PL1 on May 04, 2024, 02:13:57 am --- Looks like a solid start. :cheers: Is this one of your designs or did you find it on a site like Thingiverse? Scott --- End quote --- Hey Scott, the coin plate is my own design. I wanted a custom 3/4 size panel to go with the Vpin. It will feature a very simple coin mech I'll print up as well. I've designed the slot to only accept tokens (or token sized coins). When it's done it should have a nice authentic look ... I hope. When I get to a certain build point I'll take some time out to do the artwork for the cabinet. I've had a few goes at it but not happy with the results so far :-\ . Here's where I got to today with the panel. Two coats of primer and it's looking much smoother: |
| Ond:
A nudge post update. No Pics. ??? ??? Well, it's better than nothing right? I have in fact been spending time grappling with this coin plate. That last pic of primer smoothing things out looked promising, but...some sort of chemical reaction with the plastic and the primer resulted in bubbles forming along some edges. The dried result looked ---steaming pile of meadow muffin---, so, in the bin it went. I've been working my way through filament on my 3D printer trying different things and binning a fair bit of plastic. It's all good, I'm learning. I ordered a new smooth build plate for my printer. I'm printing things flipped over and taking advantage of the better print quality on those surfaces coming off the new plate. My coin mech design has also been completed and I'm figuring out how to print some of the parts to allow for overhangs, voids etc. The mech makes use of two photo interrupters. If a coin or token less than the the correct size is inserted only one photo interrupter is triggered and the coin/token is dumped into the return courtesy of a solenoid flip. It has to be very compact because the coin plate is quite small. Pics to come of all these things... |
| Ond:
Coin mech prototype is done and working. I was briefly tempted to just build a dummy coin mech which simply passed anything through the coin slot as a credit. The idea didn't sit well with me so ... Parts temporarily hot glued into place while I test the mech. Near the top of the chute you can see the two photo interrupters. If both are triggered the small hatch flips up and the coin/token is registered as a credit and falls into the collection box. If the Vpin is switched off OR if the wrong sized coin/token is inserted and only one photo interrupt is triggered, the coin/token falls into the collection hatch to be recovered. I'm using a tiny solenoid to flip the hatch connected to an Arduino. The mech works OK when I manually trigger the solenoid with 12V. The stroke of the solenoid is very short and I'm right at the edge of where it will effectively retract when operated. Probably a bit too close, so I'll very slightly modify the hatch for better performance. 3D printing allows me to make really small changes with accuracy and test the mech until it performs properly. Once I'm happy with the mech I'll remove the hot glue spot joins and glue it up properly using Araldite glue. Next step is to write up the code for the Arduino and test that with the mech. I'm using an Arduino Nano for this. The Nano will probably be used to run some other mechanical hardware in the Vpin as well. |
| Ond:
This project is nearing completion. I'm at the last stages of finishing and fitting so resurrecting the thread in readiness... Here's a sneak peek at the side artwork I did based on the backglass original artwork. It's already printed by GameonGrafix. I'm very impressed with the quality of the work coming from these guys. The original artwork I did was around 15000px wide so detail is clean and sharp. Inspired by PL1's suggestion to make a Tilt Bob (thanks) I went ahead and made this: Pinscape nudge accelerometer using the KL25Z is all done. Software is about 90% complete, just have to finish up artwork for PinabllX frontend Controls, solenoids, Coin Plate and sound system all done more pics to come and final finish video. Stay tuned ;D |
| Xiaou2:
For the Tilt Bob, you should use a thin Bolt / threaded rod. That way, you can Adjust the height of the Weight... like a real Tilt Bob. This is to adjust the Sensitivity of the Bob... to make it easier / harder to activate. The Bob itself, I believe is a brass plum bob shaped thing, with internal threads (been a while since Ive looked at one). As for the Buttons... you really should replaced them with actual Pinball Buttons. Real Pinball buttons use Leaf Switches, and have a much longer Travel. They will feel better, and react better... as well as will be far less fatiguing over long play sessions. Ohh... and they will be much quieter... compared to the Clicky micros. I skimmed the photos quickly... so I didnt see how many buttons you installed. If you want to play games like Black Knight 2000... you need an additional button to activate Magna-Save. Dungeons and Dragons, uses 4 buttons (2 flippers, and 2 Bridge-Activators.. to keep the ball from Draining. I love that gameplay feature). |
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