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Combining two analog joystick4-pin outputs to one 4-pin input
PL1:
--- Quote from: kgold0 on January 26, 2024, 05:42:22 am ---Is there an easy way to hook two wires into one jst pin other than soldering?
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One option is to cut/strip the middle of the wire and use euro-style terminals. Try this if the approach below doesn't work.
--- Quote from: kgold0 on January 26, 2024, 05:42:22 am ---Is the jitter going to be really bad if the 5V port is from the same encoder, just not in the same 4-pin connection?
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Jitter isn't guaranteed, it's just something to watch for.
The further apart the power sources are and the longer the wires are, the more likely it will be that the wires will pass close enough to an electromagnetic source to pick up some RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) on the unshielded wires.
If your encoder has a 5v LED connector or is an active high device (the common outer input pins are tied to 5v instead of ground), that might be good enough. You shouldn't have to cut/strip the analog stick harness to test this setup. Try this first with some JST or Dupont jumpers if you have them. ;D
Scott
kgold0:
Thank you, will try a second 5V port which is close by on the same encoder first— this thumb stick has a huge dead zone (almost acts like a dpad— on my virtual pinball device the plunger is basically fully pulled down and then fully released— but with the analog joystick I can fully control the plunger- partially pull, partially release, etc).
By the way, sorry it takes so long for me to reply. I turn notifications on but I never seem to get them!
PL1:
Here's my reply to the question you asked in a PM about whether these switches are good for this application.
They would not be my first choice for this application because:
1. They are big heavy power switches rated for 15-20A. A switch rated for less Amps like these or these might be a better choice since the analog encoder is only drawing a few mA.
BONUS ROUND: There are small 4PDT toggle switches here if you want to switch X, Y, 5v, and ground.
2. They are high profile switches. I prefer lower profile rocker switches like the one on the back of my KADESTICK build. YMMV.
3. They might be hard to directly mount in a wood panel, if that's what you're trying to do.
There are several workarounds like drilling a hole in an arcade button plug like these for a smaller toggle switch/rocker switch or do a custom 3d printed mount remixed from the mount here (Thingiverse post here) or one of the mount panels here, here, or here for some of the rectangular-body rocker switches or you could use something like this DPDT switch/mount combo.
One other thing to look for is if the switch is ON-ON (2 positions) or ON-OFF-ON. (3 positions) Either one will work, but the OFF position might make it confusing.
Scott
kgold0:
Hey, thanks so much!
My puppy seems to be in agreement because he destroyed those switches I showed you last night- took them straight from the unopened mailer and chewed them up real good.